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indigo_nite
Jul 30, 2004, 6:11 AM
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I've been doing some trad. was eyeing an aid climbing course.
is aid climbing something you learn in order to climb a big wall? are there other applications of aid climbing?
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njari
Jul 30, 2004, 6:16 AM
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Plenty of people enjoy single-pitch aid routes, but most consider it training for something bigger.
I enjoy having a few aid tricks available in case I have to pull through a short hard section of a route that is otherwise within my range. If your already a trad climber, a full-blown aid course isn't necessary (IMHO) if you just want to do the latter. For a real big-wall, however, you'll need a solid mentor and/or the course.
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coylec
Jul 30, 2004, 7:08 AM
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you can free a big wall. just ask the hubers.
aid is fun for its own sake. IMO: just like bouldering forces on the application of a small number of very powerful moves and sport climbing forces on the application of endurance, aid climbing focus on the technical aspects of traditional climbing.
you can learn it for big wall ... most people consider aid and big walling in the same category (i.e. there is no "big wall" forum on rc.com, only the aid forum). however, I've aided through hard pitches for fun. There are also trad routes that have bolt ladders (pioneer route at Smith Rock for example).
coylec
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atg200
Jul 30, 2004, 2:09 PM
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aid climbing is also used for serious alpine climbing and for desert towers. it is also handy if you get in over your head on a free climb, especially if that climb is long or remote.
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megableem
Jul 30, 2004, 2:54 PM
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noshoesnoshirt
Jul 30, 2004, 3:53 PM
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aid also has it's place in the sport climbing arena; ever try to bolt a severely overhanging route?
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cgailey
Jul 30, 2004, 4:10 PM
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Here's another question for all of you Aid junkies...on top of your standard Trad rack (for your area of course), approximately how much more gear, not including etriers, ascenders, etc. should one expect to have to buy? I'm talking pro and general trad gear, not the aid specific equipment.
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scottcody
Jul 30, 2004, 4:28 PM
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My rack suffer at least 3 fold increase in weight with in a month of first aid climb.
I could do most free routes using only 15-20% off my total gear assortment.
I know, I know aren't I cool. I give it a S1 since I was answering a question, thus making the spray provoked. :)
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sspssp
Jul 30, 2004, 4:39 PM
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In reply to: Here's another question for all of you Aid junkies...on top of your standard Trad rack (for your area of course), approximately how much more gear, not including etriers, ascenders, etc. should one expect to have to buy? I'm talking pro and general trad gear, not the aid specific equipment.
Well, what I consider the standard minimum aid rack is doubles in each size that you may encounter (since you may have to do two placements the same size in a row). This means you have to backclean every piece. So any gear you want to leave beyond this is in addition. So then it comes down to how much fixed gear there is and how comfortable with runouts. I try to stick mostly with aiding on cams and only leaving stoppers for pro (and I won't even weight the stoppers if I can at all help it). So often I only carry doubles in the cams plus many stoppers and maybe a few extra finger sized cams to leave as pro.
The only other "minimal" addition to an aid rack I would recommend is: if you are aiding pitches with pin scars, get a set or two of offset aliens.
Another thing to think about (and has been mentioned many times before), aid climbing is a great way to practice pro placements.
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atg200
Jul 30, 2004, 4:43 PM
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rack size depends entirely on where you are climbing. yosemite? lots of bronze offsets and offset aliens. zion? tons and tons of cams, with many in the same size. desert towers? tricams, 2x4s, giant cams, and every other piece of wierdness you can find. gunks? a free rack will do.
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cgailey
Jul 30, 2004, 4:50 PM
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In reply to: rack size depends entirely on where you are climbing. yosemite? lots of bronze offsets and offset aliens. zion? tons and tons of cams, with many in the same size. desert towers? tricams, 2x4s, giant cams, and every other piece of wierdness you can find. gunks? a free rack will do.
I assumed this from the beginning...just as a trad rack is area dependent. Thanks for the answers though...my assumptions were correct.
Scottcody...that had to be an expensive month! Still paying for it?
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euroford
Jul 30, 2004, 6:28 PM
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if you and your partner both have hefty trad racks, combined they should make a good aid rack + the aid specific weirdness (hooks, small brassies, ect).
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