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rockfall
Aug 2, 2004, 8:01 PM
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I would just like a bit of advice on whether any of these shoes would be good for a beginner?
1. Rock Pillars Fly.
2. Scarpa New Dominator.
3. Red Chili Dos Equis.
4. Red Chili Habanero.
5. Red Chili Torro.
Cheers for any suggestions.
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nostalgia
Aug 2, 2004, 8:12 PM
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I don't know anything about those shoes, but all those question marks will surely make the question get answered more quickly. Mmmmmm...speed holes.
-Joe
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rockfall
Aug 2, 2004, 8:19 PM
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Real big help there Joe.
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thun
Aug 2, 2004, 8:19 PM
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Shoes aren't going to make all that much of a difference in terms of a beginner climber. It's much more important that you buy a shoe that fits you well.
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abouttopeel
Aug 2, 2004, 8:22 PM
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Just get whatever is the cheapest as you will most likely be wearing them out in no time. Also, just try them on and see what feels the best. Having a shoe that is SUPER tight probably isn't necessary for beginners since you probably won't be edging on super small stuff.
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rockfall
Aug 2, 2004, 9:13 PM
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Ok, cheers dudes
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vegastradguy
Aug 2, 2004, 9:13 PM
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whichever shoe fits your foot best when it is snug (not tight).
try them on...its the only way to pick your first shoe.
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dgkula
Aug 2, 2004, 9:19 PM
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Agreed. As a beginner go for comfy and not too hard on the wallet. A board-lasted shoe might be better than a slip-lasted shoe until your feet are stronger.
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yo_escalado
Aug 6, 2004, 4:13 PM
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Try the Scarpa Vortex. They're fairly cheap and are good for a first pair of shoes. :)
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musicman
Aug 6, 2004, 4:17 PM
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i was gonna buy the Scarpa Vortex from my friend (only used em twice) but i ended up buying a different pair that was new and on sale, i climbed in them though, good shoes.
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killclimbz
Aug 6, 2004, 4:58 PM
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Get whatever shoe fits your feet the best.
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lv2climb7
Aug 6, 2004, 5:13 PM
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555
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pcrewfan
Aug 6, 2004, 5:38 PM
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You already have some really good feedback on what to do, but might I make one suggestion. I know it's hard to wait, but shop around for a while and maybe even wait till it gets closer to winter shoes go on sale or new styles are coming in and they are getting rid of the old ones. I know it's hard but it is worth the wait, I got an awesome pair of Scarpas regularly priced at $139, on sale for $46. Trust me the wait is worth it, cause then you can get a great pair of shoes for a fraction of the price. Peace--pcrew
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gnubbs
Aug 6, 2004, 7:11 PM
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A couple of suggestions. First, do a search on this topic because it seems to come up frequently. Also check the Gear Forum and Gear Reviews for shoe reviews. Also, if you are climbing indoors, you might want to see if the gyms you climb at have different brands of shoes that you could try out for an evening.
I would recommend against getting a super tight shoe to start with. A lot of people are big fans of it and say that it allows you to use your feet better. At this point though, you want something that will be comfortable so that you can enjoy your time on the rocks without your feet hurting. Once you have your footwork dialed and start climbing hard routes you can re-asses whether you want a pair of super tight shoes.
So, get something that is tight but not uncomfortable. Another thing to consider is shoe stretching. The first shoes I bought ended up being really loose once the leather stretched. Leather shoes stretch more than synthetic shoes. Unlined shoes stretch more lined shoes. Slip lasted shoes stretch more than board lasted shoes. So, if you are getting a pair of unlined leather shoes, get them pretty tight and they will stretch out as you use them. Talk to the shop employees about how much the shoes you like stretch and size accordingly.
Finally, go where ever they have the largest selection of shoes and drive an employee mad running to get you every shoe in every size. I spent 1.5 hours last time I bought shoes and tried on nearly every shoe they had.
It might happen that you find the perfect shoe first time out, but I would bet that after climbing for a couple of years you are going to have a couple of different pairs that you wear on different occasions.
hope this helps,
steve
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hippie_dreams
Aug 6, 2004, 7:34 PM
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Sorry don't know about those shoes, but here's some advice:
1.) Get a board lasted shoe first. The sales people will know what your talking about if you tell em you want a board lasted shoe, rather than slip lasted. They're way easier on a beginner's feet.
2.) Get them pretty snug, but not horribly tight. They should get uncomfortable if you have them on for a long while though.
3.) Get a lace up shoe rather than a slipper or velcro. After you get better you'll want your shoes a little tighter, you can adjust that a lot easier with a lace up rather than a velcro shoe. They are a pain in the ass to take off and put on all the time though, so make sure they're aren't horribly tight so you can belay in them for a while.
Have fun and be safe!!
-Eric
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