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csproul
Jul 30, 2004, 5:20 PM
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There is a new climbing gym opening up this weekend in Westlake Village/THousand Oaks called Boulderdash. See Boulderdashclimbing.com I will try to post after I visit it. It iwill be great to finally have a gym in the area.
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kalcario
Jul 30, 2004, 5:56 PM
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Main lead wall is 40-45' with 20' overhang, 10,000 sq.ft of climbing and bouldering, air conditioning guaranteed to overload the local power grid...makes the 18' tall West LA Rockreation look like an absolute joke...opens Saturday 7/31, same 101 offramp as Echo Cliffs (Westlake), right on Hampshire, second driveway on right, park in first left
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mountainchick82
Jul 30, 2004, 5:58 PM
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Registered: Feb 20, 2004
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Thanks for the update...my bf lives in Agoura and I work in Ventura during the week. I can finally have some place to go!
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mungeclimber
Aug 2, 2004, 8:01 PM
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Hey I was down in that vicinity a couple weeks ago. What's the scoop with all that rock in Malibu Creek Canyon (not the stuff in the park) but in the canyon itself where there appears to be sandstone everywhere, but no parking.
Developed? or not? Stable or not?
???
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crshbrn84
Aug 2, 2004, 8:06 PM
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i climbed there yesterday, the sport walls are HUGE, lots of fun routes, and they are still putting up many many more. The bouldering area will be cooler when they start setting actual routes, right now its just a bunch of random colored holds everywhere, i actaully broke one of the holds there (oops) (shotty construction) if you are a student its 13 bucks for a day pass if not then it is 15, better than rock creation. I bet in a month or so that place is going to be off the hook with how much stuff they will have up. Deffinitely worth checking out.
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mreardon
Aug 3, 2004, 11:36 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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I've been watching these guys try to open this gym for almost two years now and since they've opened I've been to the gym twice and it definitely has potential.
PRO: The lead walls are about 45 feet tall, nice and overhanging, but not a contrived arch. The top rope area has plenty of space with a nice slabby wall out of the way for both learning how to belay and for the kids/beginners to learn how to climb without getting in the way of others after a project. The bouldering area is a series of short walls with the ability to create some steep and/or long runs. All the walls have features, some of which provide for some unique more "natural-like" problems instead of the contrived nonsense seen at other places.
BIG PLUS: The owners stated that one of their goals was to not allow the typical gym/so. cal. crag scene in. They are nice guys and being in a family oriented neighborhood, this could be a great place to train and/or just plain have fun. As such, a few of us went ahead and helped them out by signing up our families and a couple of friends as well. I haven't had to pay for a membership in years, but again, these guys mean well.
CONS: I show up once in a while and have been known to utter the words "golly gee willikers".
The rest has been self-edited to give the gym a chance to grow.
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mreardon
Aug 3, 2004, 11:52 PM
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In reply to: Hey I was down in that vicinity a couple weeks ago. What's the scoop with all that rock in Malibu Creek Canyon (not the stuff in the park) but in the canyon itself where there appears to be sandstone everywhere, but no parking. Developed? or not? Stable or not? ???
Definitely a very fun place. Malibu Creek itself is loaded with a little over 100 routes from 5.8-5.14. I would recommend either Craig Fry's "So. Cal. Bouldering Guide" or Louie Anderson's guide for route information.
As for the quality of the rock, just as with any area, there is good and bad. Most of the older routes have had enough traffic that the breakage is minimal to none. A few of the newer routes by the dam, particularly the ones that were chipped and/or modified tend to be on crappier rock and likely shouldn't have been bolted to begin with, but if those ethics don't bother you, then are worth a spin from what I hear.
Also, the stream is exceptionally low this year so bring a bouldering pad and grab a hold. Along the bed itself are a ton of classics from the mid-1980s to a few newer ones put up by a few locals. Do keep in mind that the landings tend to be rough on the ankles, and there are several "don't fall" highballs.
For the risk-averse there is the 70 foot Planet of the Apes Traverse (5.11) at the main top rope wall. A nice cushy landing and pockets everywhere provide plenty of variety. After the rock pool there is "the cave", a traverse that goes for 200 feet around a large boulder (you can't miss the chalk) that clocks in around 5.14- for the whole thing, but drops to 5.8 and 5.11 for several large sections. After that, there is everything your pocketed heart can imagine. Just grip and rip. And keep an eye out for the famous. Rumor has it that people such as Dave Schultz, Scott Cosgrove and the mighty John Long have been visiting on a regular basis.
Enjoy!
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benpullin
Aug 4, 2004, 1:26 AM
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Registered: Jun 14, 2003
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mreardon -- what exactly is the "typical gym/so cal crag scene" that others need protection from?
I don't know what the true intention of your post was -- whether it was a shot at specific member of the site or actually some sort of friendly advice to climbers looking for a place to train.
I just know that you have been a climber in socal a long time and are a part of the "scene" as much as anyone else that climbs here. I found your post a bit confusing...
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kalcario
Aug 4, 2004, 5:07 AM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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*Years ago he set up a couple gym routes at a place that was bought by another couple then didn't use him anymore, but since this place opened (one week ago) has already thrown a hissy fit at one new route setter, used another famous climber's friendship to gain imaginary status, slandered almost every other So. Cal. climber whether he knows them or not, and created the beginnings of the very atmosphere the owners had hoped would not happen.*
Mike, I'm sorry you're choosing to misinterpret mine and many other's concern for your behavior as slander, I have no idea where you're coming from with this stuff about not being used as a coursesetter at LA Rock-BCR anymore (practically every route now in there has my initials on it), or anything else you're saying. *You* are trying to create a soap opera where none now exists and spouting off like this creates the exact negative vibe you say you want to avoid. I'm in there contributing as much as I can to creating a quality experience (35 routes and counting). It'll be a great hang as long as everyone checks their drama at the door. If you are in the mood for rational discussion I'll be in there from about noon tomorrow.
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ikefromla
Aug 4, 2004, 6:09 AM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2002
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whoa buddy... i feel like i just walked into the middle of somethin.. I love you Mikey :) Oh, and hi Joe. I would love to check the place out.. i promised a certain lady friend that during one of my two days back in LA this month I would take her to a climbing gym... is this place truely newbie friendly?
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mreardon
Aug 4, 2004, 7:07 AM
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In reply to: Mike, I'm sorry you're choosing to misinterpret mine and many other's concern for your behavior as slander.
Actually Joe, it was only you that was "concerned", and don't make me go into details about how much you blatantly slandered/lied about me. You'd lose.
In reply to: spouting off like this creates the exact negative vibe you say you want to avoid.
You're right. I self-edited my remarks and will give you the benefit of the doubt you never gave me on anything, ever.
In reply to: If you are in the mood for rational discussion I'll be in there from about noon tomorrow.
Only when you have no choice but to see me do you finally start acting nice again. It's not worth a discussion Joe, as always, I'll remain just as civil as I have in the past. Just keep it clean and your comments about me to yourself.
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mreardon
Aug 4, 2004, 7:12 AM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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In reply to: whoa buddy... i feel like i just walked into the middle of somethin.. I love you Mikey :) Oh, and hi Joe. I would love to check the place out.. i promised a certain lady friend that during one of my two days back in LA this month I would take her to a climbing gym... is this place truely newbie friendly?
Sorry Ike, I made the mistake of logging in, and got wrapped up like a sucker. This site is like crack and when it affects my backyard, I take things more personal than I should.
The gym is pretty cool and definitely has potential. Wish you were there to train with me. Got Lateralous on my mind again....
Give a shout when you're in the neighborhood again!
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mungeclimber
Aug 4, 2004, 8:09 PM
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Registered: Nov 2, 2002
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I'll check with a friend in So Cal about looking at Louie's guide. Thx for the post.
That parking situation along the hwy looks like a nightmare.
oh well.
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eyecannon
Aug 4, 2004, 8:19 PM
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Registered: May 4, 2004
Posts: 517
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Cool, I'm definitely going to have to check it out, though Rockreation is ALOT closer. BTW, aren't Rockreation's walls 23'?
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