|
fadeux
Aug 5, 2004, 6:56 AM
Post #1 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2004
Posts: 158
|
Ok fellas, Load up those flame throwers. I have a curiosity question. I recently saw some dumb list on tv of like the top ten extreme sport athletes. Anyway, #3 was a climber, can't remember his name. They credit him of Free Soloing The Nose on El Cap. I don't know anything about big walling, Anyway to my question, When you free solo something you do it with no belayer, no rope, no pro correct? All that being accurate, How do you get down? Is someone waiting for you at the top with a rope and gear? Or do you just down climb. ( I know that sounds absurd) Anyway, thats my question, when you free solo something, How do you get down?
P.S. Im under the impression you cant hike down El Cap.
|
|
|
|
|
jerrygarcia
Aug 5, 2004, 7:02 AM
Post #2 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 837
|
In reply to: P.S. Im under the impression you cant hike down El Cap.
You can hike down after summiting El Cap. Long free solo asscents are not downclimbed.
|
|
|
|
|
fadeux
Aug 5, 2004, 7:05 AM
Post #3 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2004
Posts: 158
|
Wow, thanks for answering in a respectful way, I may have to look into that hike. That would be an awesome view. Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
jerrygarcia
Aug 5, 2004, 7:23 AM
Post #4 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 837
|
In reply to: Wow, thanks for answering in a respectful way, I may have to look into that hike. That would be an awesome view. Thanks.
You can hike from the back side and not gain much elevation. If you start in the valley bottom its all the way up baby.
|
|
|
|
|
cgailey
Aug 5, 2004, 8:41 AM
Post #5 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 585
|
Dean Potter maybe?
|
|
|
|
|
yosemite
Aug 5, 2004, 12:40 PM
Post #6 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 331
|
In reply to: They credit him of Free Soloing The Nose on El Cap.
Remarkable accomplishment since the Nose has only been free climbed by one person.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Aug 5, 2004, 12:56 PM
Post #7 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
In reply to: In reply to: They credit him of Free Soloing The Nose on El Cap. Remarkable accomplishment since the Nose has only been free climbed by one person.
:?: :!: The TV got it wrong?!
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Aug 5, 2004, 1:02 PM
Post #8 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
i think the nose was freed after lynn hill, but she still holds the speed record.
|
|
|
|
|
yosemite
Aug 5, 2004, 1:20 PM
Post #9 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 331
|
..
|
|
|
|
|
g
Deleted
Aug 5, 2004, 1:38 PM
Post #10 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
To my knowledge, no one has ever been able to link it all up since Lynn Hill. So if this guy soloed the Nose, he's probably a ghost.
|
|
|
|
|
jw11733
Aug 5, 2004, 2:10 PM
Post #11 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 27, 2004
Posts: 65
|
I caught the end of this show. It was the Dean Potter footage from masters of stone V. He free soloed much of it, but carried a rope and a rack that he used on some sections.
|
|
|
|
|
skateman
Aug 5, 2004, 3:14 PM
Post #12 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 186
|
Just for clarification, assuming my data is correct....
In M.O.S. 5, I believe Dean potter did free solo most of the nose. However, he
definitely aided the more diffacult sections. I think it only took him 3 1/2 hours to
climb the nose....WOW!
|
|
|
|
|
madmax
Aug 5, 2004, 4:09 PM
Post #13 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2003
Posts: 354
|
In reply to: Long free solo asscents are not downclimbed.
I think Derek Hersey downclimbed the Liesure Route in the Black when he linked it up with The Scenic and Journey Home. Granted, the Liesure isn't as long as the Nose, but...
|
|
|
|
|
omenbringer
Aug 5, 2004, 6:46 PM
Post #15 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2003
Posts: 248
|
In reply to: I recently saw some dumb list on tv of like the top ten extreme sport athletes. Anyway, #3 was a climber, can't remember his name. They credit him of Free Soloing The Nose on El Cap. |
|
|
|
|
jman
Aug 5, 2004, 9:33 PM
Post #16 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 438
|
In reply to: To my knowledge, no one has ever been able to link it all up since Lynn Hill. So if this guy soloed the Nose, he's probably a ghost.
Thought I read in the latest "Climbing" that Steph Davis just did it...need to double check that issue and see if my memory is correct.
Never mind was thinking of the wrong route.
|
|
|
|
|
omenbringer
Aug 11, 2004, 6:16 AM
Post #17 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2003
Posts: 248
|
In reply to: Thought I read in the latest "Climbing" that Steph Davis just did it...need to double check that issue and see if my memory is correct. Never mind was thinking of the wrong route. |
|
|
|
|
ikefromla
Aug 11, 2004, 6:45 AM
Post #18 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 1216
|
i'm surprised to see so many peole that are unsure about who has or hasn't done the nose free. Lynn did it twice. the second time in one day. Scott Burke also reportedly climbed each pitch free, but not linked. most people do not regard Burke's ascent as a true free ascent, but i find it highly impressive anyway.
|
|
|
|
|
enjoimx
Aug 11, 2004, 7:33 AM
Post #19 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 23, 2004
Posts: 378
|
I am surprised more people havent linked the nose. It goes at 13b right? I mean, im constantly reading about all these people climbing really hard grades.
Some of the stuff Dean does on masters of stone 5 is really mind boggling. This one clip, he runs past some guy hanging on a ledge and says "dont touch me" while the guy looks on in bewilderment as to why Dean is unroped and running on a small ledge which appears to be hundreds of feet off the deck. The guy's reaction looks staged, but the feat is nevertheless pretty nuts.
|
|
|
|
|
thinksinpictures
Aug 11, 2004, 7:43 AM
Post #20 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 25, 2003
Posts: 447
|
In reply to: I am surprised more people havent linked the nose. It goes at 13b right? I mean, im constantly reading about all these people climbing really hard grades.
Yes and no. Lynn proposed 13somethingorother, but acknowledged that her small fingers gave her a serious edge climbing the thin crack on the Great Roof pitch, one of the two hardest pitches on the climb (the other being the Changing Corners pitch). Additionally, I don't usually consider routes with a single ascensionist to have an established grade. Fickle as they are, grades are supposed to be a concensus, and one proposal does make concensus.
I have a question tengentially related to this trivia - is there any woman in any other sport who has accomplished something that no man has been able to replicate? To the best of my knowledge Lynn Hill is the only woman to achieve such a feat. I'd be interested in knowing if there are any others.
|
|
|
|
|
jcshaggy
Aug 11, 2004, 10:16 AM
Post #21 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 340
|
I free climbed it........in my dreams!!!
|
|
|
|
|
moeman
Aug 11, 2004, 2:08 PM
Post #22 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2002
Posts: 1417
|
In reply to: In reply to: i think the nose was freed after lynn hill, but she still holds the speed record. Scott Burke spent about 200 days working the route. But I don't know if he has lead every pitch. Has anybody else done the Nose free?
He didn't lead every pitch. While I believe he did free the entire route, he top roped the Great Roof pitch because it was wet, and as such many people don't consider it a bona fide free ascent.
|
|
|
|
|
jimbe
Aug 13, 2004, 11:49 AM
Post #23 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 12, 2004
Posts: 22
|
yeah that was me climbing the nose yeah yeah impressive maybe i dont like to brag
|
|
|
|
|
slowrey
Aug 14, 2004, 2:11 AM
Post #24 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 14, 2004
Posts: 1
|
Hey everyone - great forum!
Just to make sure we all agree:
A free ascent (or a free climb) is a climb that is done with protection but without using the rope to ascend, rest, or fall.
A free solo is as the original poster described: no gear, no rope, no help.
|
|
|
|
|
tcantor333
Aug 15, 2004, 10:53 PM
Post #25 of 25
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 19, 2004
Posts: 71
|
In reply to: I have a question tengentially related to this trivia - is there any woman in any other sport who has accomplished something that no man has been able to replicate? To the best of my knowledge Lynn Hill is the only woman to achieve such a feat. I'd be interested in knowing if there are any others.
I don't think a man has ever climbed a route while pregnant. I know a number of women who have flashed hard 5.11 and 5.12 while with child. :D Now that would be some kinda feat for one of us guys don't ya think. :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
|
