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ambler
Aug 7, 2004, 1:37 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 1690
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I received an update recently concerning that old photo of Dave Rearick's wood nuts, used by him and George Hurley for the first all-wood ascent of Twister in 1973: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=35955 Bob Ryan tells me that Dave Rearick gave him a (the?) set of 6 wooden nuts. Bob in turn has given the nuts to Stephane Pennequin for his Nuts Museum. You can read about Stephane's amazing collection at: http://www.mtntools.com/NutsMuseum/index.html Bob also relates this anecdote: "I spoke with Dave two nights ago, and he reminded me that I had taken a leader fall on the third pitch of Werk Supp. This was in May 1978. The nut jammed so that I had to return later with a tire iron to knock it out."
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howlermonkey
Aug 8, 2004, 3:32 AM
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Registered: Aug 5, 2004
Posts: 25
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I knew this stirred some hazy and distant memories, this from my copy of "Mountaineering," by Alan Blackshaw, Penguin Press, 1968: "Wedges: Where the cracks are too wide for channel pitons, wedges may be used instead. Wooden ones must be of good enough quality to withstand hammering without splitting. Recently, hard steel hollow wedges ('bongs') have become available from America; these are more robust than wooden wedges, and are becoming generally used." That's right Al, and not just for climbing!
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hacksaw
Aug 8, 2004, 4:39 AM
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Registered: Jun 21, 2004
Posts: 169
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I once climbed with a guy that had some wooden stoppers on his rack. His only coment was, " Don't get any splinters when your cleaning the pitch." Cheers, Halsted
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coylec
Aug 8, 2004, 8:10 PM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2003
Posts: 2024
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That top right nut looks like its got some nice options -- like a wooden tricam! coylec
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mensrae
Sep 6, 2004, 9:54 AM
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Registered: Aug 25, 2004
Posts: 26
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you could jam a pop can in a crack and throw a sling around it too. im sure these wood nuts are strong, but you wouldnt see me using them.
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