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oregonalpine
Aug 8, 2004, 1:45 AM
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I'm wanting to climb Liberty Ridge on Mt. Rainier next June and need a partner. If anyone is interested PM me or leave a post. I'll be taking an ice climbing class before I go along with an expedition seminar.... it is a semi-technical route so take that into consideration. Besides Rainier Adams and Shasta are also possibilities, but Rainier is definitely the main focus. I will have a Bibler Eldorado 2man tent along with pickets, screws, rope, etc... We'll discuss gear and logistics later, and I'll be driving out from Tennessee so logistics will be interesting. Hopefully we could set aside a good amount of time for the climb for weather days to optimize chances for the summit.
Thanks,
Jeff
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enjoimx
Aug 8, 2004, 2:55 AM
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All i can say is good luck. That mountain has been in the news about 3 times recently with climbers getting stranded on that same route. I would love to go with you but unfortunately, ive never alpine climbed before and i would most likely get hurt. If you end up climbing Shasta, repost. I would definately be interested in doing that as its less serious from what ive read.
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newonrock
Aug 8, 2004, 3:36 AM
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In reply to: I'm wanting to climb Liberty Ridge on Mt. Rainier next June and need a partner. If anyone is interested PM me or leave a post. I'll be taking an ice climbing class before I go along with an expedition seminar.... it is a semi-technical route so take that into consideration. Besides Rainier Adams and Shasta are also possibilities, but Rainier is definitely the main focus. I will have a Bibler Eldorado 2man tent along with pickets, screws, rope, etc... We'll discuss gear and logistics later, and I'll be driving out from Tennessee so logistics will be interesting. Hopefully we could set aside a good amount of time for the climb for weather days to optimize chances for the summit. Thanks, Jeff
1) You'd better bring more experience than an "ice climbing class", 4 very experienced climbers died on that route this year.
2) You could call it "semi-technical" if you want , Id call it technical. Sustained very exposed 50+ degree alpine ice with some of it (and rocks) comming down on you, pretty much unprotectable as the need for speed out weighs the very real hazard of going no pro.
3) You should really have an experienced strong and fast partner THAT YOU KNOW for Lib Ridge - if your partner falls,YOU will die and we will get to watch them hoist your stiff bod off the glacier 3000 ft down, on TV. Not very dignified if you ask me.
JMO
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brutusofwyde
Aug 8, 2004, 4:17 AM
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In reply to: [snip] 2) You could call it "semi-technical" if you want , Id call it technical. Sustained very exposed 50+ degree alpine ice with some of it (and rocks) comming down on you, pretty much unprotectable as the need for speed out weighs the very real hazard of going no pro. 3) You should really have an experienced strong and fast partner THAT YOU KNOW for Lib Ridge - if your partner falls,YOU will die and we will get to watch them hoist your stiff bod off the glacier 3000 ft down, on TV. Not very dignified if you ask me. JMO
I fully agree. Although the steepest part of the ridge -- (entrance to the chute at the Thumb, the ice bypassing the black pyramid, and surmounting the schrund near the top) can be belayed and protected, you need to be able to move quickly over the rest of the route. Heck, just finding a way to the base of the route through the crevasse fields of the Carbon has been the defeat of more than one team.
There is a HUGE difference between Shasta and Rainier. And Adams, although it has some stiff ground cannot compare with the altitude, storms, or glaciation of Rainier.
Brutus
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brutusofwyde
Aug 8, 2004, 5:09 AM
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In reply to: only you can answer if the time is right and you are experienced enough to tackle Liberty Ridge.
So true.
Brutus
P.S.
I have just posted in the Trip Reports forum recollections from my own oddysey up the Ridge 14 years ago.
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froggy
Aug 8, 2004, 6:15 AM
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I was just on this mountain last weekend and it is not for beginners! You need to have your systems dialed i.e. crevasse rescue/self rescue/anchors and the whole 9 yards. Any unexperienced climber traveling on this mountain or any mountain for that matter is not only a danger to themselves, but to others as well.
I would call myself a relatively experienced climber and I felt in no way comfortable on this mountain. It is a glaciated peak - meaning glacier travel on every route - even the standard.
If you are a first time ice climber and are taking one of the most difficult routes up the mountain including ice climbing, I would re-think your choice.
Not only have experienced mountaineers died on this route, but you have no business placing other experienced climber at risk because you are not ready for such a climb.
Learn from the ground up! It is the best policy and will see you to your ultimate goal. Save going big for after you have your knowledge base!
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cjain
Aug 9, 2004, 11:50 PM
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Oregonalpine,
I just read our profile. Just my opinion, but I'd suggest doing Shasta, Adams, Orizoba, and a bunch of others before, not after, Liberty Ridge...
I climbed Liberty Ridge once several years ago and I agree with all the comments posted by the others above.
In reply to: I'm wanting to climb Liberty Ridge on Mt. Rainier next June and need a partner. If anyone is interested PM me or leave a post. I'll be taking an ice climbing class before I go along with an expedition seminar.... it is a semi-technical route so take that into consideration. Besides Rainier Adams and Shasta are also possibilities, but Rainier is definitely the main focus. I will have a Bibler Eldorado 2man tent along with pickets, screws, rope, etc... We'll discuss gear and logistics later, and I'll be driving out from Tennessee so logistics will be interesting. Hopefully we could set aside a good amount of time for the climb for weather days to optimize chances for the summit. Thanks, Jeff |
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beth23
Aug 10, 2004, 1:15 AM
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In reply to: I'm wanting to climb Liberty Ridge on Mt. Rainier next June and need a partner. If anyone is interested PM me or leave a post. I'll be taking an ice climbing class before I go along with an expedition seminar.... it is a semi-technical route so take that into consideration.
Stick to Shasta, if you feel comfortable on that then work your mountaineering learning curve up other peaks (like Chris mentioned above) before going anywhere near Rainier. There were three rescues on Liberty Ridge earlier this summer, all involving experienced mountaineers. In the first two rescues, one of the two climbers died while the other sustained injuries. And I believe the third incident both climbers perished. And these are people that would have known what to do when the sheeit hit the fan on the mountain. I don't want to sound negative, but I also don't want to be reporting about you on my nightly newscast as another statistic on that mountain. Taking an ice climbing class won't do squat for prepping you for something like Rainier.
Goals are nice to have, but if you have no real mountaineering experience, the only way you should be going for Rainier - and Liberty Ridge in particular - is if you are being professionally guided with a small guide to client ratio. Stay safe.
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elliot
Aug 10, 2004, 1:40 AM
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hey Jeff, just PM'd you.
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oregonalpine
Aug 10, 2004, 1:55 AM
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I love the way everyone's so worried about my safety, thanks. It seems I've underestimated Liberty Ridge, but yes I would call it semi-technical. Lots of steep ice, but little or no steep rock from the guide books. I do, however, see how committed it is. I feel comfortable with all of my skills so far, but yes I will practice before going up Rainier with all of the new skills. I'm planning on being out there in late May to solo Hood and Shasta to get more comfortable, and didnt think to offer that up as a good time to get to know partners. Sorry for not talking about fitness, sandbagged. I run 5-6 times a week for 1 or more hours and boulder on my off days. I believe this is stricter than the training program most guides set for Denali? It seems to me a lot of people read way too far into unfortunate mistakes, but I understand where you're coming from. I don't, however, understand where the comment about NO mountaineering experience is coming from... Enjoimx, I'd love to have a partner on Shasta, and Avalanche Gulch isnt above your level if you're in good shape.
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newonrock
Aug 10, 2004, 7:10 AM
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Jeff, Just so you know, I don't think anyone is trying to discourage you from *ever* climbing Lib ridge, its just that your post brought up a couple red flags for reasons mentioned above. There's just so many *subtle* things about reading snow/ice/terrain/weather/hazards/etc that only come with time and experience - and yes you have some.
What people are saying is just information to consider (kind of like if your on a route and met other climbers coming down and chatted with them about what was up ahead) sounds like you ARE considering it.
You could get lucky and make it up Lib ridge next spring, people have been lucky before, but why depend on luck when you already have the gonads to become a really skilled and experienced climber?
Ya ev'r think of trying Mazama glacier head wall on Adams?
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punk
Aug 11, 2004, 2:04 AM
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In reply to: I'm wanting to climb Liberty Ridge on Mt. Rainier next June and need a partner. If anyone is interested PM me or leave a post. I'll be taking an ice climbing class before I go along with an expedition seminar.... it is a semi-technical route so take that into consideration. Besides Rainier Adams and Shasta are also possibilities, but Rainier is definitely the main focus. I will have a Bibler Eldorado 2man tent along with pickets, screws, rope, etc... We'll discuss gear and logistics later, and I'll be driving out from Tennessee so logistics will be interesting. Hopefully we could set aside a good amount of time for the climb for weather days to optimize chances for the summit. Thanks, Jeff
:lol: :lol: :lol:
As I see from your post, you one of those peoples who contribute to the mountain devious fame ;)
Go do the DC route just to get the feel of this mountain
Later do Gib ledges or the Kautz or Furer finger then you might start thinking about the Lib ridge I have seen GREAT climbers weeping on all of these route, which are BY FAR less committing and technical then the ridge the mountain will wait for you get the experience first
:P
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oregonalpine
Aug 11, 2004, 2:30 AM
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I would be happy to do any route on Adams, I just look for excuses to be in the mountains. I haven't heard of the route, but if you have any info, send it over! Thanks to everyone for the info and tips...
Jeff
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brutusofwyde
Aug 12, 2004, 12:12 AM
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In reply to: Thanks to everyone for the info and tips... Jeff
One last comment:
It is good (very good) to be familiar with one or more of the descent routes on this mountain (Emmons OR DC) prior to climbing the Ridge. Not absolutely necessary, of course, but it helps alleviate the terror a little bit when you're standing up there on the crater rim in whiteout and no people and no wands in sight, with the darkness coming on and the wind coming up...
Stay safe.
Brutus
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jklinke
Aug 12, 2004, 12:39 AM
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Three (experienced) friends of mine tried to tackle Mt. Rainier via Liberty Ridge early June this year, just after two of the accidents had occurred. After waiting for good weather on the ridge for two days, they made a summit attempt on the third, only to turn around soon after. On the way down that day, they met another party which later died on that route. My friend Randy claims they could have made it and it were him who made them turn around. Well, I'm glad they 'chickened out' and made it back safely.
This is not to discourage you, but just to show that this route is a serious undertaking. I'm sure Randy will be glad to give you a great beta if you are interested.
jk
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oregonalpine
Aug 12, 2004, 2:50 AM
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Any beta would definitely be good, I think I've read everything on the internet. I'm definitely not trying to go on this route unprepared. I appreciate that Brutus, you have a very good point. Which route do you recommend for the decent? I've read its usually the Emmons, right?
thanks,
Jeff
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froggy
Sep 10, 2004, 7:07 PM
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Just an FYI - I have been away from this post for a while and noticed where it trickled off. You are still planning on doing this route???
If you are planning on doing Avalanche Gulch as a 'practice' climb for Liberty Ridge on Rainier. You are not practicing at all for Rainier.
Avalanche Gulch is a walk up - no technical parts at all. You are making a choice to go up on one of, if not the hardest routes on Rainier with that as your practice climb! Wrong - buddy... not wrong but stupid~
I did Casaval Ridge last spring and that was a challenging but fun route. I went to Rainier with intentions of climbing an intermediate route and had my experience level/and humility handed to me. I turned around and will leave that mountain for a time when I am prepared. There was a previous person talking about making experienced climbers cry - it is SCARY up there. Not to mention unstable!
You will run into technical aspects on every side of Rainier. The standard route is not a walk up - it has its technical parts.
If you have not worked in or around crevasses/glaciers - please hire a guide to give you the knowledge and preparedness that mountain deserves....
Be smart - mountains will always be there....
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chalkbag
Sep 10, 2004, 8:07 PM
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In reply to: It seems I've underestimated Liberty Ridge, but yes I would call it semi-technical. Lots of steep ice, but little or no steep rock from the guide books.
Why you conclude that the route is "semi"-technical based on the description above is a mystery to me. BTW, keep in mind the descent through the Liberty Ridge is really hard after a certain point so you will probably be climbing with all your bivy gear on your back.
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oregonalpine
Sep 12, 2004, 4:14 AM
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I've started looking for lesser routes now that everyone has so much to say about me wanting to do Liberty Ridge, sorry to piss you all of so much. I'm just beginning my career as a mountaineer/alpinist, I guess I was getting ahead of myself... I'll save Liberty for later. I am, however, really wanting to climb Rainier, but don't care to be on the same route as everyone else... this is one of the things that originally drew me to Liberty. What would you all recommend?
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punk
Sep 12, 2004, 3:35 PM
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In reply to: however, really wanting to climb Rainier, but don't care to be on the same route as everyone else... this is one of the things that originally drew me to Liberty. What would you all recommend?
Buy the Mt Rainier: A climbing guide By Mike Gauthier and Bruce Barcott and you will have all the information necessary pick your rout from there it is the most comprehensive and up to date guide for the mountain
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moonstone25
Sep 30, 2004, 12:57 PM
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im from kentucky, and if you need a partner for anything, ill do it. lots of rock climbing experience, and i would love to do liberty ridge of ranier
micah
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brutusofwyde
Oct 1, 2004, 8:17 PM
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In reply to: I appreciate that Brutus, you have a very good point. Which route do you recommend for the decent? I've read its usually the Emmons, right?
Depends.
DC to Muir is often far better to descend in whiteout because usually the guides keep that route fairly well wanded. Of course, that lands you 50 miles from your car, but better there than in a crevasse on the mountain.
In good visibility the Emmons would be the descent of choice, especially if one is familiar with the route.
Brutus
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powrslave
Oct 17, 2004, 5:24 PM
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lol. I could tell you a story about someone who did the DC route with absolutely no knowledge of mountaineering and he got up it just fine.
The same guy that did Liberty Ridge with less than a year of uninstructed experience.
Then he soloed Capitol in the winter after owning Denali the following year and claims it to be his most proud climbing achievement, despite the fact that hundreds of hikers do it every summer. Climbers in Colorado are pretty much downplaying these achievements as being acts of ignorance. Funny how they haven't pulled most of these feats off themselves.
All it takes is determination and prior understanding of what is involved. You don't have to have experience slogging up DC or hogsback to do a technical route like Liberty, although it would be nice for the descent. Practicing on steep ass crap that normally leads one to a route such as Liberty would be a far more efficient use of training time.
Personally, I lack the balls to do a lot of crazy stuff like Liberty Ridge. I don't like the idea of loose exposed GIANT ASS ROCKS falling on my head. It doesn't matter if I know how to pick a good screw placement or how to predict the liklihood of an avalanche, crap can go wrong on that route that nobody can predict.
Then again, my friend's uncle was a badass climber and he did crazy stuff for 20 years without ever getting in a bind, then he lost his fiancee on the maroon bells on the standard tourist route. He went down the next day to look for her body and found it 1500 feet down. To this day he wasn't stepped foot on a mountain.
So in closing, bad crap can happen up there whether you know what you are doing or not. So if you can't wait to do Liberty, make sure you know damn well what can happen. I know people who had no business on that ridge make it up just fine while other, more experienced climbers got screwed.
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punk
Oct 18, 2004, 4:10 AM
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Powerslave former occupation: Russian roulette referee
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