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cgranite
Aug 9, 2004, 3:13 AM
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What are the top Stoney Point test piece problems?
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curt
Aug 9, 2004, 3:30 AM
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In reply to: What are the top Stoney Point test piece problems?
Ask Mike Reardon. I'm sure he will be happy to show you a whole collection of things you will never climb.
Curt
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organic
Aug 9, 2004, 3:37 AM
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You're a stony point test piece
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wyattearp
Aug 9, 2004, 3:41 AM
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Haha Ditto that..... Heres OLD curt trying to act hard.....AGAIN!
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mreardon
Aug 9, 2004, 5:15 AM
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I recommend every problem out there. There are no "testpieces" considering (1) it's bouldering, and (2) there's 60+ years worth of problems, link-ups, and eliminates. In the meantime, here's a couple that may peak your interest:
Boulder 1 Area: "Yabo Mantel" (right of 3 Pigs, no using the cut to mantel), "Double Dyno" (faces the road, dyno to the boot flake from horizontal match crimp, then dyno to the top, crashpads are cheating)
B1 Boulder: "Tittyf**k" (sit start from the obvious undercling), "Gu" (sit start left of TF), "Expansion Chamber Direct" (sit start left of Gu and up opposing slopers)
Turlock/Boulder 2: "True Crystal Ball" (start on "pliers" and head left to match mantel), "Corner Mantel" (sit start corner next to B1 Boulder, eliminate the end hold and mantel up).
PowerGlide Area: "Powerglide", "Mosaic Thump" (sit start campusy problem right and down from Powerglide), "Johnson Problem" (obvious overhang and yes it does top out)
"The Font" (on the north side near Carousel, and has a total of four holds so it can't be that hard)
"Yabo Arete" (near Carousel and the obvious arete that goes on up)
"Largonaut" (sit start on the other obvious arete near "Yabo Arete")
"Hot Tuna Variant" (obvious traverse in cave only this time start from the right, go all the way left and back, then finish on the direct line that pops up)
If you get done with those handful, there are plenty of harder ones available as well.
Have fun!
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cgranite
Aug 9, 2004, 5:56 AM
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Thanks a lot.
From the pictures, I have my eyes set on Font, Gu, Titty F@&*. Also the Yabo Arête.
I just ordered a guide book that supposedly has this area in it, so once I'm able to climb, I will get on these problems.
I'm use to climbing the valley, in-fact I've hardly done any bouldering outside of it. I think it's great to be trading one historic area for another.
I really love Granite, but it will be great to get on some sandstone.
Thanks again, maybe you can show me the others when I move down there.
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cgranite
Aug 17, 2004, 3:44 PM
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I went to Stoney Point yesterday, and it was awesome. I must say that I like it a lot. I felt right at home with all the highball.
Anyway, I looked at all of the problems pretty much, and their all really good lines. One of the best problems I saw was behind boulder 1, it was an overhung wall that was severely tagged. It also had a reinforced flake for what looked to me as lie-back footing. (what’s up with all the S&M gear)
The northside is where it's at for sure though. There is so many quality FA's to be had. It's hard for me to believe that The Font has only recently been put up; that rock is just screaming to be climbed alone with every other boulder.
I'm currently on a computer at COC doing the school thing. I’m planning on going back Thursday evening and doing some climbing. I figure if I tape my finger up, I should be able to do one not so finger intensive problem.
I plan on doing The Font; besides the pocket, the other grips look like palms can help.
I'm very happy to be living so close to such an waesome spot.
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jeffstephan
Aug 18, 2004, 9:24 PM
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In reply to: The northside is where it's at for sure though. There is so many quality FA's to be had. |
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brianinslc
Aug 18, 2004, 9:41 PM
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In reply to: The northside is where it's at for sure though. There is so many quality FA's to be had. It's hard for me to believe that The Font has only recently been put up; that rock is just screaming to be climbed alone with every other boulder.
Yeah, there's some quality stuff on the northside...
http://mtncommunity.org/dc/user_files/540.jpg
Close up of the middle of the above route...would make for an interesting "problem"...(seems to be a bunch of this on the north side for some reason):
http://mtncommunity.org/dc/user_files/542.jpg
Fun place. Gets a bit toasty in the summer.
Anyone else wish there was at least a porta potty there?
Brian in SLC
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curt
Aug 18, 2004, 10:06 PM
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In reply to: Haha Ditto that..... Heres OLD curt trying to act hard.....AGAIN!
Its funny when you pretend to know anything about bouldering, like claiming FAs of problems in Idyllwild that were done before you were born. Oh, and hey--tell us about how good rosin is for bouldering on limestone again. Tool.
Curt
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mreardon
Aug 18, 2004, 10:42 PM
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FA's at Stoney heheh. I've had at least 40 I thought were FA's as well.... :D Hopefully he'll "discover" all the stuff up top as well.
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dood
Aug 18, 2004, 11:39 PM
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In reply to: What are the top Stoney Point test piece problems?
The gangsters are the main tests, with the UCLA coeds being a close second.
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cgranite
Aug 19, 2004, 2:04 AM
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I was talking about boulders not the wall. And ya, with the history I'm sure there are many things that have been done that no one knows about.
With what I have in mind, I'm Pretty sure it has not been done. It is a problem that will be most unpleasant to climb, but in return be a very rewarding accomplishment. I think it will be some time before I will be able to work it due to my finger. The first move is super powerful throw with the left hand, one that would destroy my finger right now.
Why doesn't crystal ball have a sit start? From the looks of it, I expected to see chalk there.
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mreardon
Aug 20, 2004, 6:38 PM
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In reply to: Why doesn't crystal ball have a sit start? From the looks of it, I expected to see chalk there.
You're kidding right? :roll:
I don't mean this in the negative, but go climb around the place for a while and you'll understand more about everything you've asked. Right now you're coming across more like someone who's trying to put their stamp on the place by pulling only the "hard" stuff and creating some FA's. That's fine if that's what you want to attempt, but a lot of locals will call you on it, and I've seen more than one old guy school a newster there.
Just keep in mind, that entire north side was barren of any plants as little as two years ago after the fire over there. You can see how much it's overgrown since. Everywhere at Stoney is the same. There is a lot of garbage, but also a lot of hidden gems that went down back when Chounard and Robbins were banging pins into the wall as practice. Not to mention that Yablonski loved the place, as well as Johnson and Anderson who all climbed super hard and spent a ton of time on stuff that isn't even put in the books. Then there's the folks that no one's ever heard of that live at that place....
Just climb and enjoy, if you do enough of it, people will notice. :wink:
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cgranite
Aug 21, 2004, 12:45 AM
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No, No, you got the wrong idea. I don't care to ever leave a stamp anywhere. The reason I mentioned crystal ball was because by looking at it I expected to see chalk there or at least traffic on the holds. I'm just use to seeing that sort of thing.
The reason I was asking about hard problems was because I wish to push myself on quality problems.
I climb because it’s so fun,...please don't take me wrong. :wink:
Oh, and I was there on Thursday...it was fun. I tried that Font problem even though I had a thing on my finger because it looked awesome. Sadly enough, I realize that having a good left hand is imperative. I couldn’t put the weight on my left hand to move up the right. That problem is very balancey and techniquish, which is what I like about it.
and another thing...I played around on this cool problem on the north side. It was right next to the street light facing the road. It starts on two solid crimps and a good foot. It then moves up to a slopey bucket and topes out above on a face. It was the greatest thing I've seen.
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