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cammaniac
Jul 30, 2004, 12:49 PM
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Planning on a couple of weeks in Montana and Wyoming right after labor day. How is the weather in the Tetons that time of year? Have the thunderstorms dried up yet? How cold does it usually get?
I am thinking about the Exum Ridge. Never attempted anything quite that long, It goes at 5.7 right?? Where is the best place to get route beta?
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ullr
Jul 30, 2004, 12:54 PM
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Still some lingering T-showers possible, but less than August. Can get chilly. But the Exum gets plenty of sun.
Best beta for that route is the huge black and white photos in the Ranger station at the park itself. Or the multitude of guidebooks with excellent photos.
Exum is pretty straight forward. Bit of route finding, but no biggi.
Have fun.
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brianinslc
Jul 30, 2004, 2:40 PM
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In reply to: Planning on a couple of weeks in Montana and Wyoming right after labor day. How is the weather in the Tetons that time of year? Have the thunderstorms dried up yet? How cold does it usually get? I am thinking about the Exum Ridge. Never attempted anything quite that long, It goes at 5.7 right?? Where is the best place to get route beta?
Starts to get nippy in September. An early season cold storm can take the range out of condition. Common. But, also common that it burns off and is nice, too. Days are shorter, which, can be a big factor. T-showers are usually done, but, any precip can result in verglass and/or snow/ice.
Exum is 5.4. Best beta is the bible of guidebooks, "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range" by Renny Jackson (gave his bro a ride to work this morning...). There's also good beta on the various posts on this site.
Brian in SLC
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rongoodman
Jul 30, 2004, 2:54 PM
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We've usually found the weather to be pretty stable. The problem can be that once snow and ice fall on the north/west facing routes(such as the O.S.) they don't clear quickly. The only way we got up the O.S. a couple of years back was a pair of crampons we borrowed from the rangers. (I can't go this fall, and thinking about it has me pretty bummed.)
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wormly81
Jul 30, 2004, 4:04 PM
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I have another question that I would appreciate someone helping me with. I'll be making an attempt on the exum ridge the last week of August and Ive been working hard to get my gear list together. The only thing I havn't yet dealt with was the footwear situation. What would you recommend for the approach? I have a pair of asolo 3 season boots and was thinking that I could bring a pair of strapon crampons for any snowy/icy sections that I dont feel comfortable on. Once you get to the ridge do most climbers put on their climbing shoes or do you stick with your approach boot?
Thanks for the info!
Jeff
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brianinslc
Jul 30, 2004, 4:35 PM
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In reply to: I have another question that I would appreciate someone helping me with. I'll be making an attempt on the exum ridge the last week of August and Ive been working hard to get my gear list together. The only thing I havn't yet dealt with was the footwear situation. What would you recommend for the approach? I have a pair of asolo 3 season boots and was thinking that I could bring a pair of strapon crampons for any snowy/icy sections that I dont feel comfortable on. Once you get to the ridge do most climbers put on their climbing shoes or do you stick with your approach boot?
Boots? Ugh. Ditch the boots.
If you have an approach shoe that's comfy for the 7 mile approach and still climbs well up to 5.4-ish, then perfecto. For the exum, I put on an all day rock shoe for the step across at wall street, though.
You really shouldn't have to deal with any snow or ice, either. Ditch the crampons and ice axe.
I usually do the approach in a pair of lightweight running shoes.
Keep your weight low, get up early, move as fast as you can. I think as a general rule for summer climbing in the tetons, if you're carrying bigger than a 50 or 60 liter pack full of gear, you have too much stuff.
Brian in SLC
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cammaniac
Jul 30, 2004, 5:13 PM
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How far is the drive from Bozeman to Jackson??
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brianinslc
Jul 30, 2004, 5:23 PM
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In reply to: How far is the drive from Bozeman to Jackson??
'Bout 5 hours but don't make the mistake of cutting through Jellystone (except for that little bit you clip enroute to West Yellowstone). Even after dark the critter factor on the roads can be a bummer if you're makin' good time.
Brian ni SLC
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iceisnice
Jul 31, 2004, 4:16 PM
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the weather in the tetons in sept can be nice. if you are talking about the first couple of weeks, expect summer conditions. even this summer, though, the thunderstorms have not been that bad. i have been up here a couple times this summer and there have rarely been any major thunderstorms. in fact, every route i've done has been perfect weather for the most part. if you go later in sept the thunderstorms will die down and you won't have to stress about them nearly as much.....of course....the reason that they die down is cuz the temps have dropped up there. between now and mid sept expect mid-day temps in the 60-70's (in the sun) and at night it can get down to 30. best of luck with the exum! great route! .......as long as there isn't a line of people on it.......
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tavs
Jul 31, 2004, 5:00 PM
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If you're doing the whole Exum (ie the "Direct" including the lower) then it goes at 5.7. I was up there in mid-July, and there was still snow but no need for crampons (an ice exe came in handy for glissading on the descent, but wasn't necessary either). I wore approach shoes for the hike in and was perfectly comfortable (a little wet on the way down, but by then it was warm). Comfy rock shoes for the route. We didn't summit (bailed at Wall Street after doing the 6 pitches of the Lower because we tried to do the whole thing on 2 hours of sleep and were too tired) so might be heading back up in late Aug/early Sept to go again. Like Brian said, minimal weight is key for doing it in a day.
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agavero
Aug 10, 2004, 2:21 AM
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I'm quite interested if you need a partner.
markjam@cableone.net
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mtengaio
Aug 13, 2004, 3:00 PM
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3 yrs. ago I did the upper Exum in mid-Sept. as a one day climb and it was excellent! It's a bit cooler but, that means less chances of thunder showers and most importantly NO CROWDS! I highly recommend going after Labor Day. Have fun!
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agavero
Aug 14, 2004, 3:26 PM
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Do you need a partner? I could fly to Salt Lake, rent a car a meet you if you do. Let me know.
markjam@cableone.net
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