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thinksinpictures
Aug 11, 2004, 7:48 AM
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Registered: Jun 25, 2003
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I'm probably moving to Santa Barbara in the fall and was wondering about trad in the area. I know there's plenty of sport and bouldering, and it's good stuff from what I hear, but I'm a beginning trad leader and haven't discovered whether there's any established easy trad in the area. Info appreciated. Also, are there any good climbing shops in or around town? Or do I have to buy all my gear down here in LA?
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climbingcowboy
Aug 11, 2004, 9:53 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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I live in Northridge if ya wanna hook up let me know. Theres Gilbratr its good a few learner routes, if you go during the week because on the weekend its packed with topropes, the other is San Ysidro it's alright, but a good place to learn is outside of Ojai, Sespe Gorge a few good learner routes there.
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glowering
Aug 11, 2004, 1:49 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2002
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There is a climbing/outdoor store in SB. Right on the main drag, can't remember the name. The people were really cool when I went in there and gave me directions to a place to climb.
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tecais
Aug 11, 2004, 2:35 PM
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Registered: Jul 18, 2002
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There's slim pickings for easy trad around Santa Barbara, meaning routes 5.7 or under requiring the placement of gear on lead. Most climbs are bolted soft sandstone with the majority of routes 5.10 and up. Lots of bouldering though. Check out the Falcon guide by Steve Edwards.
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brutusofwyde
Aug 11, 2004, 3:17 PM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
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In reply to: There is a climbing/outdoor store in SB. Right on the main drag, can't remember the name. The people were really cool when I went in there and gave me directions to a place to climb. I believe the store is Granite Stairway, but not sure, its been too many decades. San Ysidro Canyon, Gibraltar Rock, Cold Springs Dome all have trad routes. Further afield is Bishop Peak in San Luis Obispo. T-crack was my favorite lead there, but I don't know if I would call it a beginner's route. Learn to recognize poison oak. Brutus
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maculated
Aug 11, 2004, 3:37 PM
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
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In reply to: I believe the store is Granite Stairway, but not sure, its been too many decades. That's actually in San Luis Obispo. The store is a chain of them, and its name is Mountain Air. We have one of those in SLO, too.
In reply to: T-crack was my favorite lead there, but I don't know if I would call it a beginner's route. Learn to recognize poison oak. P-crack. Remember the P that's painted on it? DEFINITELY not a beginner's route, and also not a lot of gear placement (as is everything in SLO). I don't consider the Central Coast to be a crack climbing area - things are bolted, but they are trad bolted, not sport climbs.
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tecais
Aug 11, 2004, 3:55 PM
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Registered: Jul 18, 2002
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The helpful climbing store mentioned on State Street in SB (Santa Barbara) is Santa Barbara Outfitters. They are fairly recent. T-Crack (T not P) is on Gibraltar Rock and is a solid 5.10 three-star, trad jamcrack classic, marred by the heinous mantleshelf in the middle!
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hasbeen
Aug 11, 2004, 4:30 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2003
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T is in SB and P is in SLO. Both are nice and protect decently but not for fledging's at the grade(s). The mantel on T is not all the heinous, really, it's just that your pro is under your feet. At least it's good pro. SLO's basalt is better than SB's sandstone for learning to lead but like Mac said there's not always a lot of gear on the routes. There are truly only 2 super sew up easy trad leads nearby, and they are Tree Route and Ending Crack at Sespe and it's mainly because they've been climbed so often that they're clean. Other routes at Sespe can be okay but all have a more serious nature. A handfull of other routes near SB are okay but they are few and far between. Generally, you need a first ascentionists mindset to do much trad. Here are a few more recommended trad leads (some will have a few bolts): Layback Annie - Gib Gibraltar Face - all routes as you can wander around and get gear The Nose - Gib Makunauma - CSD The Crescent and Slacker - Upper Gib the left-leaning 5.11 at Los Osos (no traffic so sandy) Most routes at the Y, though they have bolts and only require the odd piece of gear. That's about it, so you should probably consider becoming a boulderer.
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hasbeen
Aug 11, 2004, 4:33 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2003
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oh, yeah, The Foot in Ojai has some good routes that are similar to San Y. And there's a big wall above the nature center out of Ojai that has some longer aid routes but the approach is grimm, to say the least, and Pat Briggs drilled out a crack on a train tressel that takes some gear...
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thinksinpictures
Aug 12, 2004, 12:11 AM
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Registered: Jun 25, 2003
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I really appreciate all the info. I guess I'll have to stick with long weekend trips to Tahquitz/Suicide. Good to know about the gear shop as well, since I'll be looking for a new part-time job as soon as I get up there. We'll see if they have an opening.
In reply to: That's about it, so you should probably consider becoming a boulderer. The problem is that I am a boulderer. I've heard fantastic things about the bouldering, which has me excited, but I'd also like a chance to keep practicing my as-yet-unrefined trad skills as well. C'est la vie.
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