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stewbabby
Aug 13, 2004, 8:54 PM
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Well actually Scottsdale I think. I am going to be out that way for two weeks starting on the 22nd. I know its going to be hot as hell, but i was wondering if it was even worth bringing my gear. Honestly I was thinking about going up to either sedona or flagstaff over the weekend of the 28th, but I was really looking for beta on stuff close to phoenix. Is there anywhere that you can climb in the afternoon (ie 5-dark) or is everything around there a day trip area... Thanks for any input, beta, ext....
stewart
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epic_ed
Aug 13, 2004, 9:04 PM
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Your best bet for climbing anything around PHX is to get an early start. Temps remain in the 100+ range well after sundown since everything has been baking in the summer sun for hours. As to where to climb in the AM? Depends if you have a partner or not. I so, then check out the McDowell's. Good granite climbing, some of it top ropable, but most of it trad. No real sport climbs out there and very little bouldering.
One good bet -- head over to Sven's slab and run up Quaker Oats (old scholl 5.5, but feels a bit harder than that). Its a slab route and you'll only need to bring a 60M rope and 8 draws. From the anchor you can TR several other climbs on the slab, which get progressively harder as you move to the left.
Ed
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stewbabby
Aug 13, 2004, 9:08 PM
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well the problem is, I will be there on business, so I wont have a partner. so I will either be rope soloing easy stuff, or bouldering. Im not much of a boulderer, but its better than sitting at some hotel. Im debating as to weather I need to bring my gear or just shoes and chalk. Someone told me you can climb at queen creek in the afternoon as some of the areas stay somewhat cooler. is that true? Thanks!
stewart
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wpy71
Aug 13, 2004, 9:13 PM
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Queen Creek is about an hour drive east. You could check out Atlantis or Upper Devils Canyon, which are in the shade in the afternoon. Mostly sport routes, but there are a few trad lines at Atlantis. Sunset is at about 7:30 right now, so I am not sure it would be worth the drive, if you aren't getting done until 5.
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steelmonkey
Aug 13, 2004, 9:44 PM
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If the temps don't get too ridiculous (>105) sometimes you can do Pinnacle Peak (out in Scottsdale) in the afternoons as quite a few routes go into shade late in the day.
You can probably climb at Atlantis (Queen Creek) now. Stays sort of bearable through the summer, more so if there's a breeze blowing down canyon. Upper Devils probably goes into shade later in the day, but I wouldn't count anything in QC as afternoon climbing unless I was working or staying way out on the east side of the metro area somewhere.
For what it's worth, probably too hot to enjoy climbing in Sedona right now. Shade might be bearable, but if you're going that far, might as well go to Flag and enjoy cooler temps and pine trees.
G.
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climbsomething
Aug 13, 2004, 9:53 PM
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Registered: May 30, 2002
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stew.-
Assuming good weather and that my car isn't a smoldering carcass, I'd love to help you out. There's a good chance I'll be up north the next couple weekends.
Go north, young man. Maybe I DO just speak for myself, but I just can't see the bright side of climbing in Phoenix in August. Even if you are open to some suffering, I am pretty sure you'll have an even better time if you just make the drive up north. You can make a good day trip of the Flag crags. It's only a couple hours away.
Oak Creek Overlook and Paradise Forks are the best Flagstaff trad options. The Overlook is pretty much in town and has a wide variety of grades. The Forks is about 30-45 min out of town and is generally harder, but stellar, and pretty much anything can be toproped. Super-high-quality, concentrated, single-pitch climbing with a pretty mellow committment on top of that (5 minutes from the car- right on).
Sedona is warm, but some good stuff is in the shade this time of year. [spray]I even have some insider knowledge on a nice, though small, area under development :) [/spray] Adventure desert sandstone climbing. Bring yer helmet. And a camera. The scenery is stunning!
(another area would be Prescott. Prescott is a bit closer, but the climbing there is more limited, as is my knowledge, though it's not bad. Just something else to consider.)
Basically, if you can climb 5.9-5.11 on either end of the rope, crack and face, you have lots of options in Flag/Sedona, and they're quality options at that. Gimme a PM with what styles and numbers you're keen on, and I'll try to point you in the right direction. I have some solid contacts in Flagstaff who can hook you up too.
If I happen to be in the neighborhood, I'll give you a shout, and maybe I can be all hospitable and stuff. Happy climbing! :)
~H.
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agavero
Aug 13, 2004, 10:10 PM
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Registered: Dec 30, 2002
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1 1/2 HRS. north of Phoenix is a town called Prescott (where I live) and is a climber's paradise with basalt & quartzite crags, volcanic plugs, granite dells, and the crown jewel of them all Granite Mountain Wilderness (only open 6 months a year) and just opened! I can offer you a hot meal and shower in trade for belays. I have not climbed in awhile but want to get my a** back out there again.
email: markjam@cableone.net
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gambler
Aug 13, 2004, 10:14 PM
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
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If you must climb in PHX in August,your best bet is Atlantis(a crag at Queen Creek)...you can always find routes in the shade and the approach is only 5 min.
The Throne and the Pancake House are climbable(shady)after about 1 pm ...they are located in Upper Devils canyon(also at Queen Creek).
P.S. Like Hillary said,if you get the chance go to Flagstaff,but if you only have a few hours in the afternoon try theese sport areas:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=190
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=7378
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=1837
For Trad granite check out:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=3576
And by the way if you are around Arizona on Labor Day there is always the R.C.com gathering in Flagstaff,of which I am still a Fencesitta!
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reno
Aug 13, 2004, 10:15 PM
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Registered: Oct 30, 2001
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Stew:
Drop me a line when you get here. I've got more time off than I know what to do with, and would be happy to climb.
PM me, or e-mail me.
I've got a full rack, so you can leave yours at home and bring only shoes, harness, and chalkbag.
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steelmonkey
Aug 16, 2004, 3:16 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2002
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climbsomething wrote:
In reply to: Go north, young man. Maybe I DO just speak for myself, but I just can't see the bright side of climbing in Phoenix in August.
Bright side? How about not having to deal with the suicidal drivers on I-17? I go north a LOT to climb and it's about all I can do to keep my sanity while driving back into Phoenix on a Sunday these days. It's an odd weekend when you don't spend at least some time sitting in your non-moving car on the I-17 parking lot while driving back from a weekend up north. Heck, most of the time, just the sheer volume of vehicles trying to get back into town from the north causes the highway to back up for several miles (out to New River a couple weekends ago!). Not to say it isn't worth it to get up and do some climbing, but sitting out there on the sweltering highway with a few thousand other stranded drivers can really make you wonder.
Climbed at Pinnacle Peak yesterday morning and had the whole place to ourselves. Went early, did a few routes, left when it got too warm. Was nice.
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climblouisiana
Aug 16, 2004, 4:17 PM
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As G. said, climbing at Pinnacle Peak in the afternoon is bearable. The park rangers really stress that you must leave by the designated closing time though (usually around sunset).
I was just at Queen Creek yesterday in the late afternoon and the weather was excellent.
Don't plan on climbing at Queen Creek during the weekday unless you leave Phoenix by about 3 pm otherwise you will be sitting in rush hour traffic.
Mt. Lemmon outside of Tucson is very good if you are looking for a weekend get away. Unfortunately you are not allowed to park your car between mp 11 to mp 16 because of road construction. There are still plenty of places to climb in the Pines. Most of the cooler (weatherwise)areas are above mp 16 anyway.
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climbin_high
Aug 16, 2004, 4:19 PM
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Registered: May 30, 2003
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I will be in Phoenix also for the week of Aug. 18-24. Bouldering is what I do so if you'd like to leave the gear and find a few problems that would be totally cool. Anyone from the area who would like to show a couple of good people around that week would be great! Reno... maybe you'd like to hang too?
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pheenixx
Aug 16, 2004, 4:40 PM
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Registered: May 22, 2004
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Hey -- Ya'll forgot about the No. Side of Tom's Thumb or the East face in the afternoon. Also there is Gardner's Wall, another No. face slab in the Sven Slab area. Renaissance Direct and Hanging Gardens are both extremely moderate routes with harder variations to crank off. Find both in the Falcon guide to Arizona.
Reno - hope ur staying cool in AZ..! :oops: sorrry I haven't been around much - headin' up to Co. as we speak. Let's climb - ll probably see you at the 3rd AZGathering...hope ur nu job is going well.
Cheer - Kirra
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