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talons05
Nov 11, 2001, 1:36 AM
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I do pullups with weight attached.
AW
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jds100
Nov 11, 2001, 1:58 AM
Post #27 of 81
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Along with the weight routine suggestions I've made in other forums, I'll concur with Austin; I also add weighted pull ups and dips. Again, the key for building strength without bulk is to keep the reps relatively low, and use heavy weight. The way I do the pull ups and dips is in a step-down progession: 2 x 3 reps @ 55lbs, 2 x 4 reps @ 45 lbs, and 2 x 5 reps @ 35 lbs, with about 1 minute between sets. Rest 2 minutes, then do dips the same way, same weight.
Obviously, you have to find the correct weight for you, such that the last rep of the 2nd set should be almost impossible, and the final rep of the workout should be almost as tough. The object is to recruit all the muscle fibers to fire at the same instant, training the nervous system as well as the muscle. Squeeze at the top of the pull ups (hold it for a second before you lower); remember to lower, not drop.
Be extremely careful; these can wreak havoc on elbow tendons, even wrists, if you drop to straight arms. I suggest keeping a slight bend in the elbow at the lowest point, rather than hyperextending the elbow. On the dips, pay very close attention to how your shoulders feel and stop if there is PAIN, as differentiated from soreness. Keep your body relatively upright in orientation, rather than leaning forward into the dip too much (that would make it more of a chest exercise). The dip is to work the shoulders and triceps, as a compliment to the biceps and lats. Keep your elbows in; don't do dips if you've got or had serious shoulder problems.
Anyway, the big-muscle-group power increase can be dramatic! But, you still need to do those long traverse sessions for endurance.
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biff
Nov 12, 2001, 11:40 PM
Post #28 of 81
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One thing I can't stress enough is streching after weight lifting. Strech durring the recovery day, strech when ever you can. I started lifting, and noticed that my flexibility suffered considerably. Doing side pulls and long crossover moves became more sheer strengh than finesse. I started streching daily and once again I am able to flow gracefully across more powerfull moves rather than deadpointing everything.
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thumper
Nov 23, 2001, 11:05 PM
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I was weight training for years before I began climbing. I started climbing with guys who had been doing it for a couple years, but no other sports/athletic training. After 8 months of climbing I could redpoint significantly higher than they could. They are better technical climbers, but I've been able to muscle through more difficult moves.
I made quicker progress as I gained skill because I can still fall back on grunting through a move.
A lot of people won't weight train because they don't want the extra weight going up the rock. But it's not like strapping an exrtra 25 pounds on your back and going climbing. The weight IS your body, and you shouldn't have a hard time moving it around regardless if you weigh 100 lbs or 180. Being stronger only makes it easier to do everything.
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jds100
Nov 23, 2001, 11:29 PM
Post #30 of 81
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The issue is "strength to weight ratio". Muscle weighs more than fat, and at a point, there begins diminishing returns on whatever gain in muscle mass you've made. Weight training for climbing should always be for gains in strength (usually in the big muscle groups of lats & back, shoulders, biceps & triceps, and abs & obliques). The chest needs to be worked hard, as well, to balance the gains to the pullling muscle groups of lats & back. The correct muscle workout is to keep reps low and weight high.
Forearm gains are going to come from the climbing gym much more effectively than the weight gym, though reverse wrist curls with medium weight (NOT heavy; it's too easy to rip up the wrist tendons and ligaments) are good to balance the big forearm muscle. Finger strength (which is really forearm muscle strength and finger tendon strength) will also come best from climbing. If you gain bulk from the climbing gym workout, it's very likely to be very strong bulk (rather than 'pretty' bulk), and is a more accurate expression of the strength you have for climbing.
[ This Message was edited by: jds100 on 2001-11-23 15:30 ]
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biff
Nov 23, 2001, 11:44 PM
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I just tried 3 sets of 30 reps with 7lb on each hand of reverese wrist curls JDS100 suggested .. I got more pump in my forarms (bottom and top) then I usually get after 45 minutes of climbing.
Right on
I found for best effectivness to keep the thumb on the top of the bar with the other fingers and laying my arm flat on a table with my wrist hanging over the edge about 6 inches.
[ This Message was edited by: biff on 2001-11-23 16:06 ]
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jds100
Nov 24, 2001, 4:05 AM
Post #32 of 81
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Agreed! Look at Klem Loskot, and Fred Nicole, and Alex Huber!
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aulwes
Nov 26, 2001, 1:38 AM
Post #33 of 81
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I just want to say that I climb so I don't have to lift weights, instead of going to the weights I go to the bouldering wall. I can also work on my technique while I get stronger!!!
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angusmackay2000
Dec 13, 2001, 3:53 PM
Post #34 of 81
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I do alot of weights and sports to keep myself fit. I dont use my weights the same as most people i try new things with them to try and build up different parts of my body.
I dont use heavy weights when training i use small weights but use them alot and do them very slowly.
I find it helps in my upper body strength and i always push my self over the top if you get used to doing so then when you are climbing you are less likely to give up.
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angusmackay2000
Dec 13, 2001, 3:59 PM
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I find that when trying to build up your legs for climbing a good thing to do is to cycle alot, go mountaineering and walk alot a good time before going climbing and it does the same thing as training in the gym except when you do it in the gym you can choose when to stop and how much pressure to put on them.
But when you are out mountaineering or cycling or walking once you get so far there is no point in turning back so you push yourself to do more and you get a better work out.
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whatsarock20
Dec 13, 2001, 4:36 PM
Post #36 of 81
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I agree with the training of the opposing muscle groups. I'll do a chest and tri work out maybe two or three times a week and I eat a hell of alot of protein filled foods and nononononononono cigarette's, you guy's are nuts!!
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climber_trev
May 6, 2002, 10:42 PM
Post #37 of 81
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my climbing routine is well dodgy, i cant go regularly enough so i find it nessesary to supplament it with weights, their not overly that bad as far as building a strong strenght base, dont let this confuse you with climbing specific strength, it takes some climbing to convert it over. Basically if you keep the weights low and reps high you will train endurance or what i generally do is high weights and low reps to build 'absolute strength'
overall not a bad way to go (avoiding the 10 to 15 rep sets will minimise additional bulk)
low reps 3-8
high reps 20-30
hope that helps
climber_trev
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daggerx
May 7, 2002, 3:47 AM
Post #38 of 81
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I weight train 4 to 7 days a week and would be a better climber then ever if I did not take 2 months off because of a deth in the family. Only I dont work out with weights like most of you, I do high weights, with high reps. I.E. if I do curls Ill do 20 sets of 10 one night with 55 pounds per hand then the next night Ill do 20 sets of 20 with 55 pounds per hand. I use what I condier a heavy weight for me and do what I consider a high amount of reps.
DaggerX
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cruzinsouthoc
May 7, 2002, 4:26 AM
Post #39 of 81
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Weight training can never hurt if you plan a routine specifically designed for your goals... Just think about what your weeks spots are in climbing and work on the muscles that'll help that area. Weight training routines can be customized to fit any goals and improve yourself in any activity you want... If you over do it and you can't climb for weeks, that's your fault. If you're soar for a couple of days cuz you haven't lifted in a while (or ever) that's normal...once you get in a regular routine, it won't be that way anymore.
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sharmagod
May 7, 2002, 4:30 AM
Post #40 of 81
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Unlike myself my brother does a lot of weightlifting.Not only that but he is a more of a natural climber then me.Needless to say he is a much better climber then me.Doing other activities besides climbing doesnt hurt.Whatever you do though you have to watch how your body recoups or you may have problems with the injury bug.
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coldclimb
May 7, 2002, 5:33 AM
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I traverse my house several times daily. Do it enough and it's a great workout.
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bodyresults
May 7, 2002, 6:44 AM
Post #42 of 81
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A few people have mentioned muscle balance. During climbing the emphasis is made on keeping arms straight and rounding the soulders forward to save energy. This is great while on the climb but many people stay in this type of posture when they are done climbing. One way to "balance this is to work the Rhomboids (muscle located in the middle of the upper back). I've got a great article that details this at http://www.bodyresults.com/E2cornerpushups.asp I also have several weight training articles for rock climbers on http://www.bodyresults.com/S1Climb.asp
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llamafun
May 8, 2002, 8:01 AM
Post #43 of 81
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Y does evry 1 say the tricep is an opposing muscle??? Dont u lot no wot a mantle shelf is!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
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quickclips
May 10, 2002, 4:06 PM
Post #44 of 81
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I lift weights, but I do high reps and slow movment to build controled strength. Its big change from how I lifted before I started climbing, but I find it helps.
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bcmtngrrrl
May 10, 2002, 4:50 PM
Post #45 of 81
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" I do not lift weights. I supliment my climbing routine with lots of punk rock, espresso, and cigarettes, no joke. " rrradam
Change DO NOT to Do, ESPRESSO to LATTE, and add pot to those cigarettes.
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pianoman
Jul 6, 2002, 3:08 PM
Post #46 of 81
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sorry, blackjack, swimming builds incredible strength, and it takes very little weight training after that to get muscle definition.
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crux_clipper
Jul 8, 2002, 5:52 AM
Post #47 of 81
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Using weights is boring. I find i get the same pump and result in a hard session at the gym, and it's actually enjoyable.
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wildtrail
Jul 8, 2002, 6:08 AM
Post #48 of 81
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I weight lift heavily. Have been doing so since highschool (12 years), but I took a four year break to travel and get married. Just got back into it. Weight training is always good for any activity. I don't recommend anyone getting large. I'm not tooting any horn, but I am quite big from years of powerlifting. It actually sucks being large. You know those nice cracks where you can get your forearm and hand in? I can't. I'm much smaller now though. After taking four years off. So, I can get into some of those cracks now. Thank God! Actually, weight training for climbing is quite different. What a person wants to develope is muscle endurance. This means lighter weight and more repetitions per set. Talk to a weight trainer, find your limitations, and develope a good plan. I usually give people examples like this:
Find out how much you can curl once with one arm. In other words, "max out". Let's say you can do one 50 pound curl. Cut it in half and do 3 sets of as many as you can. That would be an example of an endurance work out. You'll build some muscle, make the group(s) stronger, and they will be able to endure longer while climbing before burn out. Just a suggestion. Talk to a trainer.
Steve
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child_of_problems
Jul 9, 2002, 4:54 AM
Post #49 of 81
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Why do you want to put more wieght on your body huh. Climbing is all about flexibilty(spelt wrong). Weights well just make you a worse climber i feel. I could be wrong.
Only big dogs lift wieghts. Big dogs
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likethegoddess
Jul 15, 2002, 5:09 PM
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I lift weights as well. I found after a short time climbing that I needed more upper body strength and more lower body flexibility. I do mostly freeweights and chin ups.
I'd like to clarify, though I don't know that much about nutrition, that *protein* rebuilds muscles. Carbs are good for quick energy. So on climbing days I do big carbs before and big protein after. My understanding is that it's better for your body to get your nutrients from natural sources rather than supplements whenever possible.
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