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chads93gt
Aug 18, 2004, 3:18 AM
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Registered: Aug 15, 2004
Posts: 55
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Hello guys, Im new to this site, new to this area i live in, and sort of new to climbing. I have never sport/trad climed/lead climbed, only top roped. However from some of these pictures that I have seen of you guys that do this crazy stuff, one thing keeps runnig through my head. HOw in gods name did you drill the hole, to hammer the bolt into?? i mean, some of these bolts locations ive seen are in some crazy, crazy places. I know im a noob, but if anyone is bored, i'd love to hear someone tell me how this works. This might be in the wrong forum, but if it is, i guess i will find out.
Thanks
Chad
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sed
Aug 18, 2004, 4:01 AM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2003
Posts: 356
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nothing but the best form will do, a hard hat with a pneumatic driver mounted frontally and rearilly (i know it's not a word ok) with a titanium neck brace and industrial strapping tape to keep the testical (or breast) vibrations down. most seasoned drillers also wrap seven or eight rolls of duck (yes quack quack) tape around their bodies from head to toe. that's when the real work begins. rapid occilations of the driver prevent normal thought processes so you must adhere your body to the rock using eight to nine quarts of super glue (holy shit what a sticky mess) and this takes a while if you used the little single use foil squeeze jobbies. anyhow you get the picture, it's a lot of work and nothing less than a wire brush, cosmetic surgery and a complete makover will return the driller to normal.
sound like a lot of work? it is. i don't recommend it.
:shock:
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charlie_benton
May 15, 2005, 4:18 PM
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Registered: Apr 4, 2005
Posts: 25
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Some people rap down with a drill and bolt that way. Others start ground up, climbing and adding bolts as pro. This is hard and usually involves aid climbing to one degree or another.
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pt
May 15, 2005, 6:15 PM
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 400
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What!? You've never seen Cliffhanger? It's all explained in the movie, although, those bolt guns are pretty damn expensive. :P
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renohandjams
Jun 22, 2005, 5:14 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2005
Posts: 616
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I'm not a fan of bolting sport, but I will bolt hangers at the top of trad routes if I have to, I'd rather not though. We use a cordless drill, trad up the whole way, then set in a bomb proof belay-like station with cams and nuts at the top so the driller can just lean back and do his work with confidence. We also have a hand drill, but it's murder to make any progress and I won't do it unless it was an emergency and my life depended on it.
-Kenny
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zozo
Jun 22, 2005, 5:15 PM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2004
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OK enough! The next person who ressurects a lame ass thread from 6 months ago to later..... Im going to track you down and drown you in jello!!!
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jt512
Jun 22, 2005, 5:20 PM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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In bolting a sport climb, ususally an anchor is established at the top of the route, and the bolts are placed on rappel, with the holes drilled using a power drill. For bolts placed on traditional climbs, the climber places the bolt on lead using a hand drill, which is often a serious undertaking.
-Jay
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flipnfall
Jun 22, 2005, 6:24 PM
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Registered: May 18, 2004
Posts: 717
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Let me give you a non-groinular, non-joking response. You should never start bolting until you get to know an area and the basics of leading a sport route.
LEARN TO SPORT CLIMB FIRST
If you know know anything about leading a sport route, you will have no idea about good placements for holding a stance and clipping.
LEARN AN AREA FIRST
In some parks it's illegal to bolt. In some areas there are cracks everywhere, so bolts are not necessary. In some areas there are already bolts. In some areas, the climbing community only allows manual bolting (e.g., Sylvan Lake area, SD) where other areas allow bolting from rappell (e.g., Rushmore Needles, SD). If you break these rules, park officials can arrest you or the climbing community will come by and remove your bolts. If you bolt in the wrong place, the authorities may shut down access to the whole climbing community and you will be the one solely to blame.
READ UP ON BOLT PLACEMENT
Don't place bolts until you see how other areas are doing it. Some areas only require an inch or two of drilling with expansion bolts. Other areas require 8 to 10 inches of drilling plus gluing. In some rock, an expansion bolt will crack the rock. Climbers assume that whoever placed bolts knew what they were doing. Don't risk other people's lives because of a lack of knowledge.
DON'T ADD BOLTS ON AN EXISTING ROUTE
Climbers respect another person's route. If you don't feel like it has enough bolts, DON'T ADD MORE BOLTS. If you do, the community will remove your bolts and cement in the holes. People are tempted to do this in the Needles of SD becaue they don't like long, run-out sections of unprotected routes. If you don't like it, don't climb it.
If you pay attention to these rules, you will be good to go.
:D
GT
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jowanky
Jun 22, 2005, 6:44 PM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2003
Posts: 151
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My friend and I established our first route in may this year in Ojai, CA. We used the same first bolt as another climb, and then branched off and did it ground up with a hand drill. It was pretty scary, but a very cool experience.
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