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sheldonjr
Jan 9, 2004, 5:14 AM
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Hey all.
I'm in the market for some REALLY light biners to make quickdraws out of. Either that or super light QD's. I just switched over to Dovals instead of ovals, and liked em so much I decided switch out my draws as well. I'm looking for something that won't kill my budget either. I was looking at the Trango Lightweight Wire Gate. Seems light enough, no funky designs, and the price is right. Any experience with these? Any sugg's? Thanks so much!
-Spencer
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dirtineye
Jan 9, 2004, 5:29 AM
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If you really want light weight, bite the bullet and get kong heliums. But nobody I know that has any wants to fall on em much hahaha. they look like those keychain biners.
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fear
Jan 9, 2004, 5:43 AM
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Registered: Jun 16, 2003
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Trango superfly wiregate: 30g - sick sick sick
AND a 9kn open gate
But my favorite is still the DMM wirelock. Heavier but 10kn open gate and a snag free nose...
-Fear
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crushingfinger
Jan 9, 2004, 7:58 AM
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The more weight you haul up the rock the stronger you will be.
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flechenbones
Jan 9, 2004, 8:20 AM
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Check out the Trango superflys as posted above. Trango makes a draw with them that is apparently as light as an oval biner.
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jakedatc
Jan 9, 2004, 6:21 PM
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The Omega JC's or whatever they are called now come in draws with the Dovals or you can buy them seperately.. 41g.. oh the massive extra weight... lol
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j_ung
Jan 9, 2004, 6:31 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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My roommate has Kong Heliums. He loves 'em.
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gunkiemike
Jan 10, 2004, 10:57 PM
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Use short Mammut 8 mm slings in place of sewn "dogbone" style draws. That'll save another few grams. But leading on a skinny e.g. 9.4 mm or smaller cord will save you even more.
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skiclimb
Jan 11, 2004, 9:14 AM
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I like my BD neutrinos...
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nagatana
Jan 11, 2004, 9:46 AM
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Does anyone use the Trango SuperFly? I notice it has a 4.5mm rope-bearing radius, and wonder how that compares size-wise to a BD Neutrino or Quickwire.
Also, anyone know of any Kong retailers in the States other than US Rigging?
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rockingnyc
Jan 11, 2004, 2:39 PM
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I agree with Jakedatc, the JC by Omega pacific are light, have a huge gate opening, and a nice rope bearing surface. They are on all my good QD's.
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climbinjunkie
Aug 17, 2004, 3:06 PM
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I have a full rack of the Trango Superflys and I love them. They're tiny and freakin' light, these things rock! You can get them from Trango in a draw wtih a lightweight spectra runner, or you can pair them with the 8mm Mammut slings for lightweight trad draws. I use this and I love it
climbinjunkie
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mowz
Aug 17, 2004, 9:44 PM
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I'm partial to WC, and so must recommend the Heliums or Oxygens.
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climbinjunkie
Aug 18, 2004, 4:17 AM
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In general, I like Wild Country as well, but the Superflys are lighter than the heliums, and it worries me that "Wild Country Ltd. announced the recall of all Helium karabiners supplied to retail stores between April and July 2004." (http://climbing.com/equipment/heliumrecall/) Anytime a manufacturer has to recall something like a 'biner, I get worried. I'm not a fan of hanging my life off of things I don't trust, and all the 'biners between April and July is a lot of 'biners. Just a thought. And again, at 30g, the Superfly is freakin' light, and nothing beats that.
Climbinjunkie
=================
I'm like a superhero
Without the powers
Or motivation . . .
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musicman
Aug 18, 2004, 4:40 PM
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In reply to: I like my BD neutrinos...
i've played around with them and they are awesome.
ps didn't they have like a recall on some of the Heliums? (not really sure, don't quote me on it)
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verticallaw
Aug 18, 2004, 4:48 PM
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I got pretty sketched out with the recall of the WC heliums as well. Thats not good!!!!
Superlight biners are great but they are scary to use I recall being shown one in a climbing store years ago and to prove a point I bought it, held it against the door jam and hit it with my shoe, darn thing snapped on the spot, I know that they have gotten better but I am always skeptical about some of the superlightweight units.
btw. I asked for a refund as the biner had not left the store yet and recived it.
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omenbringer
Aug 18, 2004, 5:52 PM
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I am surprised nobody has mentioned the DMM Pro Wires. These great carabiners may not be as light as the newer super lights like the Trango Superflys (30g) or the WC Heliums (33g), but they are full size, suitable for general use, can be color coded, and are only 36g. The only downfall is price, they run about $8.95-$9.95.
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texplorer
Aug 18, 2004, 7:55 PM
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I have been using Neutrinos and really find them to be sound and great biners. However, they can be troublesome to clip the rope due to their small gate opening. I just bought and have been using the new WC Heliums (yes, the ones that are recalled) and really like them too. I am not that worried about them failing but will probably send them back when I get a chance. I agree that DMM also has some nice light biners as well but don't personally own any. Word is that DMM has got some sweet new biners coming out in the next year-so stay tuned.
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fear
Aug 21, 2004, 3:11 PM
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In reply to: .... I bought it, held it against the door jam and hit it with my shoe, darn thing snapped on the spot .....
BS
Sorta like the "rope just snapped" or "My harness belay loop just ripped"
-Fear
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climbinjunkie
Aug 21, 2004, 4:19 PM
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I'm with fear on this one.
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slab-dyno
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Aug 21, 2004, 8:47 PM
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Just as others have said, the Trango Superfly biners are best. I bought them about 6 months ago to make new draws. When they're combined with the mammut 8mm 24in slings, they are sooooo light.
Jimmy
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slacklinejoe
Sep 8, 2004, 4:48 PM
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Not anywhere near "ultra light" but if your not looking to spend quite so much and still be light then I've heard good things about the Faders "Fly" quickdraws lately. 45g / biners for less than the cost of a dirt bag draw or 42g biners for about the same cost.
Hard to find in the US right now (Acme Climbing carries them) but expect that to change very soon as they are most likely going to be exporting to many more stores soon. :D
But yeah, if your talking ultra ultra light then 30g is insanely light for the super flys.
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rocket
Sep 8, 2004, 4:57 PM
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I use the Trango SuperFly and the Omega Doval. Most who climb with me prefer the SuperFly, because it is easier to see the gate as compared to the Doval's oval design. Strengthwise they are as strong as heavier biners.
SuperFly:
Gate Opening: 26mm
Weight: 30gm (1.09 oz)
Major Axis Strength: 24kN
Minor Axis Strength: 7kN
Gate Open Strength: 9kN
CE Rated
Neutrino:
Weight: 36 g
Gate closed strength: 24 kN
Gate open strength: 8 kN
Minor axis strength: 7 kN
Doval:
Weight: 37gr
Gate Closed Strength: 25kN
Gate Open Strength: 7kN
Minor Axis Strength: 7kN
Length: 85mmColor: Red
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yay_chris
Sep 9, 2004, 3:16 AM
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In reply to: I like my BD neutrinos...
So do I! :D
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