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broganadams
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Aug 21, 2001, 6:57 AM
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when you are going to send a route you don't have to carry everything you own to get to the top. This only ways you down. If you have a book on the place you are slimbing take a look at it and prepare before you get on the rock. This will make decission making easier and will light your load so you don't tire as easy.
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bmsullivan
Oct 2, 2001, 6:37 AM
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Dude, I'm sure your right. I am a new trad leader. I did a lead the other day that a friend of mine had done before. He said that there is really no opp for pro, so just clip the pitons and the few bolts that exist. Well, the book said use some small to med gear. So I took up my set of nuts and the first 4 tri's. I guess his eyes and mine are diff cause I sure found some good placements (at least I think so). Not to mention that as a new leader, it gives a boost in confidence to think that should you need to place pro, you will have what you need. It's gonna take me some time to get like you, where I don't have to take 1/2 my rack on a climb that only needs 2 or 3 nuts, but what the hell, in the meantime i'm getting some killer legs.
Be well
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rrrADAM
Oct 2, 2001, 6:45 AM
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If I'm planning a trip or even a specific climb for a weekend, I make a copy of the page from the book w/ all needed beta, and take that up the rock.
If I'm climbing multi-pitch w/ a 3rd, I'll have the 3rd carry the stuff I don't need for that pitch, since the 2nd cleans most of the gear and only leaves directionals.
Gotta spread the load, and lead with whatcha need.
rrrADAM
[ This Message was edited by: rrradam on 2001-10-01 23:46 ]
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stigonrock
Oct 2, 2001, 1:10 PM
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Yeah ... intuition is a good thing. The number of times I've ignored intuition and got into a situation .. gotta learn to listen to it.
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krillen
Oct 2, 2001, 3:32 PM
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You do developa sence for what you will need and what you won't. (i.e. - thin finger cracks won't need large cams/big bro's)
BUT there is something to be said for being prepared. I carry WAY too much gear, I know that, but the joy of climbing trad outdoors is there are a million ways to solve a problem. So don't limit your options TOO much, but keep it in reason.
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jds100
Oct 2, 2001, 4:20 PM
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Isn't it necessary in the beginning, when a climber is learning to spot placements and which is the correct piece, he's going to have to carry more than is ultimately needed? For the beginner, I'd counsel, "Take your time; get to know the rock, and get to know your gear. It's better to take too much as this stage, than too little."
[ This Message was edited by: jds100 on 2001-10-02 09:20 ]
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