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#8 alien vs #2 camalot
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tchamber


Aug 20, 2004, 4:56 PM
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#8 alien vs #2 camalot
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I'm looking at buying my first set of cams, and I wanted to know how the black (#8/clear) alien compares with the #2 camalot. I know that aliens are considered the best when it comes to smaller cams, but do the midsized cams outperform the camalots? Seems to me that having the midsize aliens would replace camalots .5-2, and then I'd only need camalots 3 & 3.5 to fill out my rack. I've got about an hour to decide before I place my order (internet is faster at work). Thanks guys!


petsfed


Aug 20, 2004, 4:58 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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Larger aliens walk more. Up above an orange alien, I'd go with another brand. Go with camalots if that's the option you have.


tchamber


Aug 20, 2004, 5:04 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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Thanks, that's exactly the kind of response I'm looking for. Anybody else have a suggestion? Or if you want to badmouth camalots entirely and convince me to go with another cam, feel free. I want as much input as possible. I've been using my partner's camalots, and like them, so that's why I'm a little partial to them. Any good or bad feedback would be great.


ryan_m


Aug 20, 2004, 5:10 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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I've found that the clear Alien is just as useful as the 2 Camalot- that said, I've got a 2 Camalot as well, and I don't mind using one of the other...I think the clear Alien is lighter perhaps? That might be the deciding factor, if that is in fact the case.


sbclimber


Aug 20, 2004, 5:17 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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get the camalot. The larger aliens walk more than the camalots.

I would get camalots starting a lot smaller than that. aliens up to red maybe one size bigger thats it IMHO.


tchamber


Aug 20, 2004, 5:27 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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So what I'm looking at now seems to be camalots size 1 and higher, and aliens from size orange lower. From your feedback that seems like the best break point. Further comments would certainly be useful.

I've never used the larger aliens, it seemed like they could be better than the camalots... too bad, I really liked the few other aliens I've played with...


fear


Aug 20, 2004, 5:47 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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In reply to:
So what I'm looking at now seems to be camalots size 1 and higher, and aliens from size orange lower. From your feedback that seems like the best break point. Further comments would certainly be useful.

I've never used the larger aliens, it seemed like they could be better than the camalots... too bad, I really liked the few other aliens I've played with...

Aliens, all up to red.

Camelots .3 and up are great.

So you'll have some overlapping small cams. Aliens will fit in narrower pockets though where the micro camalots cannot.

Remember Aliens have no cam stops. That can be a big problem.

Given an ideal placement, I'd opt for the Camalots every time. But those Aliens seem to fit soooooo many times where nothing else does.

-Fear


tahoe_rock_master


Aug 20, 2004, 6:02 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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I like having both. The #8 Alien is in-between a #1 and #2 camalot. I find it a good piece to have. I am glad I have both, each one works better in different circumstances. If I had to get one I would probably get the camalot, but again both are great.


Matt


Partner euroford


Aug 20, 2004, 6:14 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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i'm really not crazy about the larger aliens. i'd say stick red and below with them. i put the break point for camalots at .75 and up. the .75 is one of my favorite pieces.


maculated


Aug 20, 2004, 7:32 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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Larger aliens have one big advantage over camalots: they have a smaller profile - which means they'll fit in smaller pockets.


mtselman


Aug 20, 2004, 8:38 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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IN addition to what was said above, keep in mind that Aliens do not have cam stops, and as such will invert if accidentally walk in and fully open. Camalots never invert and can even be used as passive pro.
They are considerably heavier though...
I'm with the convention of Aliens for small stuf and camalots for bigger sizes.


tchamber


Aug 23, 2004, 9:47 AM
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Thanks for all the advice. I ended up going with aliens from orange and smaller, and camalots from 1 (red) higher. I was climbing this weekend and was VERY happy with how well the aliens perform. My first placement of the day was a perfect fit for my orange alien, which really has a lot of bite with the way the teeth are angled on the lobes. I can't believe how solidly the aliens place, I don't know if they are more effective than other cams, but they definitely give me a good amount of confidence when climbing above them.

Thanks again guys!


slabbyd


Aug 24, 2004, 8:13 AM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I like having both. The #8 Alien is in-between a #1 and #2 camalot. I find it a good piece to have. I am glad I have both, each one works better in different circumstances. If I had to get one I would probably get the camalot, but again both are great.


Matt

Clearly this man is a "rock master" as he has absolutely nailed the comparison between the two. Buy the Camalot first, when you need more cams buy the alien.


nicebooty


Aug 24, 2004, 8:27 AM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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the .75 camalot fits in anything. i love that thing.


ben87


Aug 24, 2004, 9:09 AM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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second that --- everyone should have a .75 camalot. I should probably have two. might be my most useful piece.

Overlap is good -- especially from about a yellow alien to a #1 friend -- I would say this is the range that gets the most action on the most climbs and where I'm happiest to have doubles.


nicebooty


Aug 24, 2004, 2:37 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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i got 2 :) wish i had one more.


davidji


Aug 24, 2004, 2:50 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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In reply to:
IN addition to what was said above, keep in mind that Aliens do not have cam stops, and as such will invert if accidentally walk in and fully open.
The only time I've seen an Alien invert, one cam lobe sheared off the trigger wire from another one, rendering the cam useless until repaired. So it's a problem if it happens. I was told some sizes have pins or cams stops these days though.

As for getting Camalots in the 3 & 3 1/2 sizes: nice cams, but kind of heavy. I'm using Friends in those sizes (3 1/2 & 4) these days. I'm sure the new Camalots will be much lighter. The weight isn't as big a deal for Camalots smaller than #3.


Partner one900johnnyk


Aug 24, 2004, 3:51 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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i end my aliens at a number 1 camalot (i think that's up to an orange alien..)... for what it's worth.


iamthewallress


Aug 24, 2004, 3:56 PM
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I carry only aliens up to red. Then for larger I'll carry camalots for my first set...better range, easier to place. But since they are heavy, if I need doubles above the red alien, I bring the larger aliens.


tradklime


Aug 26, 2004, 7:48 AM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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I have the exact opposite experience than a few of the responders regarding the walking issue. First, aliens have a more flexible stem, which helps to mitigate walking. And, with a narrower profile, when shifting the cam back and forth, the alien will walk less of a distance. If you clip the rope directly to the piece, the longer sling helps as well.

Whatever, in anything other than splitter cracks, the alien is a better tool, period. Also, it is lighter, less bulky, and is less likely to get tangled up with your other gear. However, the #2 camalot will fit a slightly larger crack- so the size comparison is not quite apples to apples.

Camalots are the most overrated cam.
Large aliens are the most underrated cam.


crackboy


Aug 26, 2004, 12:09 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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orange and up have pins now to prevent inverting, i think this is a relatively new thing

i have had 2 aliens invert on me, one was a black(maybe blue) and it flipped over when i was testing it, the second was a red alien mostly flipped but still stayed in when my foot slipped on a climb, i was still holding on but still


crotch


Aug 26, 2004, 12:15 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Large aliens are the most underrated cam.

Word.


tahoe_rock_master


Aug 29, 2004, 12:52 PM
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Re: #8 alien vs #2 camalot [In reply to]
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Yea, like I said in my earlier post, I am totally down with the large aliens, they work great.


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