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calimouth
Aug 26, 2004, 9:48 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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This is just to throw it out there for anyone to consume/reject/whatever:
There should be a rock gym that incorporates famous holds from classic routes, and tries to make them the same texture as the rock on which they're found. For instance, since I've climbed at Rumney a lot, some possibles would be the triangle hold on "Underdog" or the wobbly stone hold on "Romancing the Stone." The gym would rotate the routes so that the gym would change the flavor of the climbs every once in a while.
Just a thought.
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shouldbeworking
Aug 26, 2004, 9:55 PM
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Registered: Jul 19, 2004
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riiiight..... and maybe there should be a model realization and maybe a model action directe and maybe a karma boulder. this would make it much easier to climb because you wouldn't have to travel- or even go outside. where it's dirty. and there are leaves. and dirt and stuff.
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lnmego
Aug 26, 2004, 10:03 PM
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Registered: May 18, 2004
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Franklin climbing used to do this. They just barely stopped making holds. I agree that it is a good idea. Sadly, you can't find it on their website now. They had a route called black lung from Utah somewhere. They had a few others as well.
-Nielson
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boz84
Aug 26, 2004, 10:07 PM
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Metolius actually sells hold packs designed to model famous boulder problems.
I know theyve got Midnight lightning, I cant remember what else they have.
A whole gym modeled on this would be kinda stupid, but the idea itself isnt too bad.
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dotc
Aug 26, 2004, 10:40 PM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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Hey I know! We could chip all the holds off these classic routes and reconstruct them indoors. What a great idea! :D
Running and ducking.....
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jakedatc
Aug 26, 2004, 11:10 PM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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good idea... not possible... you'd have to recreate the angle and height and all that stuff that goes along with the route.. this wouldnt work since you'd get bored of the same routes and want to change it... then you'd have to change all the angles around..
we could make a gym where every few months a whole wall just randomly falls over and recreate Cannon ;) hell go pick up the old man and watch him fall over again
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jpearl
Aug 27, 2004, 3:11 AM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2003
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Good idea, totally legit to think of it.
I don't know about recreating a route, but you can take a cue from the natural rock structure at Rumney and use it as a base for coming up with new route ideas. Some of the routes at my New York City gym have cruxes and lines inspired by the Gunks and Peterskill. In general, a good indoor routesetter should have extensive outdoor climbing experience and thus be able to set a route that challenges the climber rather than just bolting a "ladder" to the wall.
BTW, for "Romancing the Stone" don't forget the tree to the right of the route so when you take a whipper on it, you can sail through the air and crash into it! Either that or just put up a loose hold, sit back, and watch people go "what the fu..."!
Good Luck!
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masterjuggler41
Aug 27, 2004, 3:19 AM
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Registered: May 20, 2004
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In reply to: Franklin climbing used to do this. They had a route called black lung from Utah somewhere. -Nielson
FYI, if you are interested, Black Lung was a test piece in Joes Valley. I can't remember if it was in the area Boy Size or Area 51. it is a V13.
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calimouth
Aug 27, 2004, 2:59 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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Hey, I wasn't suggesting that we climb in the gym INSTEAD of outside. Obviously there are times when going to the gym is just what you need to tide you over until you can get outside on real rock, and this was just an idea for that. Besides, some of us don't exactly have the money and/or time to go travelling all over the world to do these routes. Check the purist arrogance at the door please. Good point about the angles of the climbs though.
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superfox
Aug 27, 2004, 3:38 PM
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Registered: Aug 24, 2003
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There are definitely problems about making a whole gym out of existing routes, including angles, heights, and not much variety. However, what would be kind of cool is if at a World Cup bouldering event they did this to a not-often tried hard boulder problem, for example "Tonino '78", a proposed V16. This way the hardest boulderers in the world would have a chance to work the line and see it they could confirm the grade. Obviously, a recreation of the route wouldn't be exactly the same, but it would still be interesting to see.
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