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mintcondish
Aug 10, 2004, 8:07 AM
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hey guys
in a couple weeks i'll be spending a few days out in Tuolomne and plan on hitting a few of those multipitch climbs. as i am still pretty new to trad climbing i will be doing the easier climbs (5.4-5.7-ish). i know how to set anchors and all that and pretty much im still gathering all the beta i can for this trip. i got the guide book for the area as well. so pretty much i wuold like to know what extra gear i might need from those of you who know Tuolomne well.
i have an assortment of 12 cams from (1.5cm to BD camalot 3.5)
a set of nuts+ quickdraw for each nut
4 2ft. slings
3 1ft. slings
1 4ft sling
about 10 ovals and 4 locking biners
atc and gri gri (which one should i use?)
and about 50ft of webbing i can cut down and do accordingly
what am i missing? is this sufficient? and also i hear about the second climber hauling the rest of the gear. is that necesary and how do we go about that?
thanks in advance for your beta...
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thegreytradster
Aug 10, 2004, 5:53 PM
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More 1' and 2' slings for a total of 10-16
At least one more 4'
Cordelet or tripple length sling 6'
Take the carabiners off the dogbone draws for use on the slings and leave the dogbones in the car, (except for bolted routes)
Leave the gri gri at home.
otherwise a set of nuts and a set of cams thru 3-1/2 is plenty in that grade level.
Take 20' of bail webbing and a knife on anything multi pitch.
Leader carrys all the gear.
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toejam
Aug 11, 2004, 12:05 AM
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A good pair of approach shoes with sticky rubber for the walk-offs, and a lightweight windbreaker is handy in case of weather. I use quickdraws frequently with cams, but I agree: more runners. Lots of locking biners are good too, both for setting up the anchor, and to protect before/after a runout section (of which there are lots in Tuolumne).
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kev
Aug 11, 2004, 12:20 AM
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What climbs are you thinking about? You might want bigger cams for some things unless you like the usual TM runout.
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mintcondish
Aug 11, 2004, 8:34 AM
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probably stately pleasure, eichorn, or tenaya peak. is it common to climb with a backpack on? how about would i pack the shoes and jacket?
thanks guys for the feedack
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toejam
Aug 11, 2004, 6:50 PM
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Use a backpack or clip them to your harness. I prefer harness myself.
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ikellen
Aug 11, 2004, 7:15 PM
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Stately Pleasure and Lembert are two good bets. Both have atleast one classic route (Great White Book on SPD, and Northwest Books on Lembert) that is under 5.10. Definitly bring quite a few shoulder length slings, and always bring a few regular draws. Alot of routes will have pitches of runout bolted face climbing, so having the draws is nice to have. You might want to just rig a few trad draws (tripled 24" sling with two biners) as they offer the best versatility.
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viticeps
Aug 18, 2004, 7:38 PM
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I've just recently stumbled on this location and at some point would like to plan a trip here as well. Looks like the climbing gear has been covered, but what kind of non-climbing gear is needed? As in, how far of a hike is it from the parking lot to the climb and is camping equipment necessary?
I'll eventually get the guide book, I'm sure, but I'd just like an idea of what I'd need so I can start daydreaming right away. :P
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scottcody
Aug 19, 2004, 5:58 AM
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In reply to: probably stately pleasure, eichorn, or tenaya peak. is it common to climb with a backpack on? how about would i pack the shoes and jacket? thanks guys for the feedack
Or climb with someone that can help you pack and rack up.
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shortfatoldguy
Aug 19, 2004, 6:37 AM
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It's an interesting place. I was just down there with a partner who redpoints hard .ll's, and there were some .7's that held our attention.
West Country, on Stately Pleasure Dome, is a good intro. Definitely take a day and do Cathedral Peak--totally fun and gorgeous.
Generally speaking, it's a great place to get a lead head, I'll say that.
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highminded
Aug 19, 2004, 7:28 AM
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Alot of Yosemite (Tuolumne Meadows included) involve setting pro in smoothish, outward flaring cracks. You're going to want lots of cams (my partner and I carry 2 sets).
Stately Pleasure Dome is good. I especially appreciate the approach (park car, open door). Go early; there's usually a line.
If you're doing 5.4-5.7s, I'd recommend doing Hermaphrodite Flake -- it's the easiest climb on that dome. P1 is a cinch. P2 is slightly more challenging. P3 is slabby but bolted. P4 is the scariest because it onvolves a slightly run-out traverse to the right (as you face the rock) at the start. You have to work your way across a slight bulge in the rock that obscures your view of the crack you're heading for. Use sticky shoes and trust your feet. There IS a crack over there: you'll see it as you make your way over. There are a couple "thank god" bolts at the top of the flake at the end of P4, look up to find them.
Be careful of doing Great White Book, if you're not confident. The last pitch is very run-out. Every time we've done Hermaphrodite, we've had to "rescue" someone at the top of GWB that got stuck and scared by the lack of pro.
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ikellen
Aug 19, 2004, 10:08 PM
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Good point on GWB, doesnt the route have an R rating?
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beth23
Aug 19, 2004, 11:17 PM
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For non-climbing stuff, if you're doing multipitch make sure you have a light windbreaker. Storms can roll in and out of the area quite fast and it can go from bright sunshine with no wind to clouds and strong wind gusts pretty quick, and it can get chilly. Hell, it was so windy on the day I did West Crack I thought I was gonna get knocked off the knobs on the second pitch. The day had started out flawless weather-wise, but I was damn glad I'd earlier tied my windbreaker to my harness once we were up on the route. Ya just never know up there. It comes and goes.
But for Stately Pleasure and Lembert, you're parked right next to the domes so all you need to bring is your rope, gear and clip your shoes to your harness for the walkoffs. If you need anything else, your car is right there.
West Country (4 fast pitches, 5.7) on Stately Pleasure Dome is a lot of fun. And easy pro (except for third pitch, it's three bolts with no pro but it's fairly low angle slab so it's not a big deal), it was one of my first Tuolumne leads and a great route to get your taste of Tuolumne without scaring the crap out of yourself (like you can on the runouts atop Great White Book and South Crack).
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tahoe_rock_master
Aug 19, 2004, 11:51 PM
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I just went to Tuolmne for my first time a couple weeks ago. It is fun. I didn't like lembet dome very much, I think there are much better places. that said, I would try to find someone who has been there before and knows what's up. And also, if you have the 'Falcon' guidebook it is not very good. I did a crack and that book said it was 5.10d, and it was REALLY hard. I went home and looked at supertopo and it was a 5.11b, so be careful with ratings. most of all it is an adventure, have fun.
Matt
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jv
Aug 19, 2004, 11:59 PM
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In reply to: I just went to Tuolmne for my first time a couple weeks ago. It is fun. I didn't like lembet dome very much, I think there are much better places.
JV
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coldclimb
Aug 20, 2004, 12:43 AM
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coldclimb moved this thread from Gear Heads to Regional Discussions.
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highminded
Aug 20, 2004, 1:30 AM
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In reply to: Good point on GWB, doesnt the route have an R rating?
Yes, it does. Which reminds me... I have found that when a Yosemite route is marked "runout," it REALLY is "runout." It's all that damned, slabby, polished granite and those really nice cracks that suddenly disappear, without so much as a "by your leave."
(Don't get me wrong, I love the place.)
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cadreamin
Aug 20, 2004, 6:03 PM
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Of the 10 -15 routes in the 5.6 - 5.9 range I've been up in TM I would second shortfatoldguy.....go do Cathedral Peak. Regardless of crowds! It is 4 or 5 pitches of 5.5 - 5.7 with endless variations. I talked to a local coming off the thing just before I started in July. He said he had done it 10 times and took different routes up each time. It would be really hard to get into trouble ... meaning in over 5.7 anywhere on the thing. The whole experience of the hike, the setting of the climb and the true summit experience is Great! You can also always see it when you later drive through the meadows.. Highest recommendation.
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jonnyb
Aug 20, 2004, 6:43 PM
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In reply to: I did a crack and that book said it was 5.10d, and it was REALLY hard. I went home and looked at supertopo and it was a 5.11b, so be careful with ratings. most of all it is an adventure, have fun. Matt
Let me guess, 'Memo from Lloyd?" Yep, really hard!
As far as the original post, you sound a bit new to trad. I'd take it easy. A lot of the routes there in the 5.4-7 range have very little(or no) pro. Cathedral Peak or NW books of Lembert are good, easy introductions to the area though...
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tahoe_rock_master
Aug 29, 2004, 7:41 PM
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JV- on lembert i did water cracks, and was going to do lunar leap, and truck & Drive, but there were other partie on them. I did go to the poly dome area i think, and that was cool, there is a climb called darth vaders revenge(i think) that is awesome, but I didn't climb that much so I can't really tell you where else to go.
Jonnyb- Yes!!! It was memo from lloyd. It is really hard.
Matt
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ricardol
Aug 29, 2004, 9:48 PM
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In reply to: Good point on GWB, doesnt the route have an R rating?
.. the 2nd pitch needs big gear unless you dont mind running it out ..
.. last time i led that pitch .. my biggest piece was a #4 camalot .. and i did not find the placement for it (there is at least 1 #4 placemented) ..
.. i ended up doing the whole 2nd pitch without any gear between belays ..
-- ricardo
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thomaskeefer
Aug 29, 2004, 11:39 PM
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I would not reccomend West Country to a 5.7 leader. I backed off the second pitch on this because, despite what someone said above, the pro is virtually non existent. If you have a bunch of small aliens then maybe it is protectbale but it was pretty scary.. If you are wondering, I lead 10a/b trad comfortably most days and do the majority of my climbing in the valley, meadows, josh and the east side of the sierras so that is my perspective.
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johnclimbrok
Aug 29, 2004, 11:45 PM
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Sticky Rubber Sandals will save a lot of room and are helpful for the slabby walk-off common in Tuolomne - other than that the super-topo guide has good beta for gear - and take the things you would normally on a multi-pitch climb - camp in your car outside of the park (tuolomne side) because there isn't anything like camp 4 up there - it's all super expensive (for a lot of climbers at least) - everyone else has said most of it though...have fun
John
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brianinslc
Sep 10, 2004, 9:38 PM
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In reply to: I would not reccomend West Country to a 5.7 leader.
I would only if said leader was pretty good at placing pro and a cool head for some run out.
A new 5.7 leader? No.
In reply to: I backed off the second pitch on this because, despite what someone said above, the pro is virtually non existent. If you have a bunch of small aliens then maybe it is protectbale but it was pretty scary.. If you are wondering, I lead 10a/b trad comfortably most days and do the majority of my climbing in the valley, meadows, josh and the east side of the sierras so that is my perspective.
Hmmm...quick pic of my partner leadin' it a couple weeks ago...
http://mtncommunity.org/dc/user_files/585.jpg
I seem to recall she placed about 12 or so pieces...selection of stoppers and cams, standard rackage, and, they were all truck stop...
I think the 3rd pitch is spicier...
Anyhoo, FWIW...
Cheers,
Brian in SLC
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