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braaaaaaaadley
Aug 30, 2004, 3:53 AM
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
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So, my partner and I have been ousted from our local crag and now in order for us to get in some climbing, we are forced to drive TWO :evil: hours to NRG and therefore we want to make the best of our time at the gorge. My question to you all is what are the best easily accessable (meaning less than a 20 minute commute from parking area) climbs for a beginning trad leader in the 5.6-easy 5.8 range, 5.11aish and below sport and 5.12a and below tr. Keep in mind that I HATE leading cracks b/c I have no crack technique so crack climbs with good feet/dihedrals are preferable. Also I like my sport climbs crimpy and less than vertical. So what are your favorites? Thanks in advance for your advice!!
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markanite
Aug 30, 2004, 4:41 AM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2003
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I just got back from NRG. I drove 22 hours (from San Antonio, TX). Glass Onion was a great climb. Lots of great climbs on endless wall. Summerville is also excellent.
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darkstar
Aug 30, 2004, 11:46 AM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2004
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just start at endless wall .... your gonna be amazed.... then hit summerville ......dark
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cammaniac
Aug 30, 2004, 12:00 PM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2004
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Bubba City was a very cool place, as was Summersville. Question though, why did you get ousted from your local crag?
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vollbrecht
Aug 30, 2004, 12:21 PM
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Registered: Jun 19, 2004
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I think my favorite specific climb would have to be "satisfaction guaranteed" at Summersville Lake. I think it's an 11a sport climb.
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ottoman
Aug 30, 2004, 12:37 PM
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Registered: May 26, 2003
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It's the season just starting for NRG...as long as it dosen't start raining every weekend up there.....Junkyard Wall...Beauty Mtn....and the Endless(personal fav')...Good Climbing
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dbrayack
Aug 30, 2004, 12:48 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Stike a Scowl is about as good as it gets at 10 sport at the new, Glass Onion is good, bonemaster gearfling is quite good at 11b/c, muckraker is a good 11a or 10d depending on what guide you have. Legacy is a good 11b or a, once again depending on what guide you have. Euronation with the tree start is a great 10a/b, S'more Energy is a good 11b, Dead Painters and Magnificent Pudd are both high quality 12as, It is Safe at 11d/12a is a great sloper route. Homer Erectus is a good 11b/c "if you traverse out around the crux dirty 12a crux up high". It has a setup 30 footer from the chains if you are not adequate on route finding and slopers. Little Help from my Friends, and Upheaval, are two good moderate sport routes. Exqueetion is a good 12b/a depending on which guide you have. Those are all at endless. At Butcher's Branch, Green Piece and Low voltage are good mods, Ministry is a good, but short 12b, Sancho Belize and Bicycle Club are good 11+s, Lost Souls is a spectacular 12a. All the routes at the 7-11 Wall are quite good, Tony the Tiger, Scenic Adult and Bimbo Shrine are the gems in my opinion "11c, 11c/d, 11b" There are some high quality 11+ and 12s at the new and old bubba city, avoid the mods if you can as they need a lot of cleanup traffic and they get hammered on weekends. If you have any specific questions, don't hesitate to email me "dbrayack_512@hotmail.com" -Dan
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j_ung
Aug 30, 2004, 1:00 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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In reply to: Bubba City was a very cool place, as was Summersville. Question though, why did you get ousted from your local crag? Second that question. Do we even want you showing up at the New? :P :wink:
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braaaaaaaadley
Aug 30, 2004, 1:03 PM
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
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Another quick question to add to the discussion... last weekend we were up climbing at the bridge buttress and late in the afternoon we decided to scout out the endless wall for our next excursion to the new. So after driving around trying to find the darn place we somehow ended up at the cirque(the place with the 40ft ladder)... cool place, but not many easy climbs also not really developed in my opinion. So my question is what is the easiest way to get to the easier climbs on the endless wall? Is it the first parking lot you come to going down 82 from 19?
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braaaaaaaadley
Aug 30, 2004, 1:10 PM
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
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Oh and to answer the why were you oused question... well some guy brought his dog to the local crag, so I did what any sensible climber did in my situation: I waited untill he was about 50 feet off the deck leading this really hard climb, then I ran up to his belay partner and yelled bear as loud as I could... then I cut his rope and ran off. The real answer: http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=823985#823985
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bumblie
Aug 30, 2004, 1:12 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
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In reply to: So after driving around trying to find the darn place we somehow ended up at the cirque(the place with the 40ft ladder)... cool place, but not many easy climbs also not really developed in my opinion. Back to Jay's question... "Do we even want you showing up at the New?" :roll: :roll: :roll: ************************************************************ Braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaadley, Maybe you should invest in a guidebook. They're quite helpful for selecting routes, getting to specific cliffs and actually finding the routes you want to climb. BTW Hidden Valley has/had one of the easiest approaches of any climbing area in the Southeast. If you want quality climbing, you may want to suck it up and hike more than the five minutes you're accustomed to. Hidden Valley has been closed for for over 6 months and you're just now getting around to exploring the New. Hmm.
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bauerbrian
Aug 30, 2004, 2:24 PM
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Registered: Dec 26, 2003
Posts: 36
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Two Hours from one the best single pitch climbing areas (probly in the world). That's not so bad, you have a life time of qaulity routes to explore throughout the entire gorge!
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