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tigerbythetail
Jun 12, 2004, 1:47 AM
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Which is it? The one you start thinking of one the weather cools down some? Or do you avoid that place like the plague (or climb there mid-week and tell people you do)?
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tigerbythetail
Jun 12, 2004, 4:40 AM
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No favorites? What about your least favorite route and why?
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areyoumydude
Jun 12, 2004, 7:07 PM
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What a pile.
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bandycoot
Jun 12, 2004, 7:09 PM
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:lol: I've never been and don't plan on it. I haven't heard a good thing about it. I'd rather complete the drive to Vegas and climb a multipitch anyday.
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tigerbythetail
Jun 16, 2004, 2:02 AM
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Hidden Agenda at the Dude Ranch is a favorite for it's varied climbing, good rock and lack of traffic in the area.
In reply to: I've never been and don't plan on it.
Good, that's one less person to worry about crowding the area.
In reply to: I haven't heard a good thing about it.
And you won't either, because it's even worse than you can imagine...although I see you do climb at Williamson. Whats with that?
Indeed, it's far more than you could possibly handle.
Anybody else have a favorite route? Or maybe a least favorite? Do tell.
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esoteric1
Jun 16, 2004, 2:17 AM
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I agree, chosspile. you can have the place. ive only been there once, i enjoyed my time there, i hung out with mr. marshal a bit and even he had something to say about the rock quality...calling it chode.
if your on a route that hasnt been chocked up, watch where you put your hands as your likely to pull something off the route. its fun, but not worth the drive from where i live...that being said, i enjoyed espreso as a warm down, and that has a lot to say about the grade inflation at these sport areas. it reminded me of the sport park in boulder canyon...as far as that was concerned
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roughster
Jun 16, 2004, 2:50 AM
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NJC certainly has its faults, but being "worthless" is not one of them! Some of my favorites are:
Crossfire
Date With Destiny
Guilty as Sin
Clumsy
Sure the rock is less than perfect, but the quality of movement and varied features make NJC a great crag IMO. Kudos to Jack for having the vision to see through the choss and see the gem hidden underneath!
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jt512
Jun 16, 2004, 2:53 AM
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In reply to: Which is it? The one you start thinking of one the weather cools down some? Or do you avoid that place like the plague (or climb there mid-week and tell people you do)?
Maynard G Krebs!! (12a) That thing is a gas. 12 little moves. How hard can it be? Bwahaha.
Minutemen Arete (11d) - Cool, committing moves. Makes you feel like a hero.
Fantasia (11a). Fun jug haul to crimpy crux.
Crossfire (12a'ish). Unique moves and sustained.
Candy O (11b). Another one I just never get tired of.
The Action (13a). Powerful and sustained. Had fun working it last season. Haven't rp'ed it yet.
Worst of NJC: The two 5.9's on the little rock in front of Raven that sucks in the n00bs; the 5.9 on the Finger that looks like it should be so good; the awkward 5.9 to the right of Espresso; the 5.10b on Twin Towers that goes up a crack, sort of.
-Jay
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olvegrn
Aug 30, 2004, 5:17 AM
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well, seeing that there is no real guidebook since like 1890 and the only way to get a hold of it is to buy it off the black market or somthing, I don't really know a single name of any route in New Jack. I have been there a few times but everyone seems too pissed that some people want to know the name and difficulty of a climb. So, I would have to say that I like the route right infront of the parking area with the fat ear about 20 feet up....and that's all I know about it. :D
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itakealot
Aug 30, 2004, 5:47 AM
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route 66-since people think it is a typical soft rated NJC climb until they get to the top, where they sketch.
Also on cold days that is the warmest place to climb, oops I just let out a big secret.
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roseraie
Aug 30, 2004, 5:49 AM
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In reply to: So, I would have to say that I like the route right infront of the parking area with the fat ear about 20 feet up....and that's all I know about it. :D
If the "ear" in question is carriage-bolted to the rock, you're talking about Espresso (5.10c).
I'm going to second Jay's vote for Candy O. Can't get enough... :)
Meg
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jt512
Aug 30, 2004, 5:32 PM
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In reply to: well, seeing that there is no real guidebook since like 1890...
That must be the BrutusOfWyde guide book.
In reply to: and the only way to get a hold of it is to buy it off the black market or somthing...
You can have my old Mayr guide for, oh, $65. Seems an appropriate price, given what's been going on with old guidebooks lately.
-Jay
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handcrack
Aug 30, 2004, 6:26 PM
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How can a sleepy little out of the way area draw such strong opinions? Here are mine:
Favorites: Route 66 of course. The trick for me at the top is a handjam. My current #1 favorite is the far left route on Crossfire Rock. I don't know it's real name so I call it Trads Gone Wild (5.9+?) since the moves at the top make this old Trad guy feel like real sport stud.
Honorable mention: White Out, 5.10b on White Face; the far left route on Twin Towers, 5.8; and some good beginner leads, Little Jack Horner, 5.6 (amazing rock!) and some of the routes on Altar Rock.
I'll second all jt512's picks for worst routes. Add to that routes on Raven's Roost (that's Roost, not Rock). Bad rock, awkward moves, and poorly thoughtout bolt placements, it's got it all! But worst ever was an obscure, ugly, horribly loose climb on the backside of Camper Rock, maybe 5.7 or so. Belay helmet mandatory.
Also: I've been told many times over the last few years in no uncertain terms that the new guide will be out really soon.
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jt512
Aug 30, 2004, 6:45 PM
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In reply to: How can a sleepy little out of the way area draw such strong opinions?
Good point.
In reply to: My current #1 favorite is the far left route on Crossfire Rock. I don't know it's real name so I call it Trads Gone Wild (5.9+?) since the moves at the top make this old Trad guy feel like real sport stud.
Could you possibly mean the far left route on Crucified Crag? It has a somewhat chossy slabby start, to a sort-of dihedral with the bolts in good red rock on the left, and finishes in a hand crack. The crux (for me) is stepping up into the crack. If so, the route is called "The Little Red Book" 5.10a. If you like that route try the 10a/b in the Getaway.
In reply to: Also: I've been told many times over the last few years in no uncertain terms that the new guide will be out really soon.
For better or worse, the popular walls will be included in the upcoming revision of the Mayr/Sweeny SoCal sport climbing guide book. A dedicated NJC guidebook will be published afterward, I'm told.
-Jay
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sbclimber
Aug 30, 2004, 6:49 PM
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candy O is my favorite there. One of my best onsights ever. Not the best rock ever but a fun place to hang out.
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olvegrn
Aug 30, 2004, 10:33 PM
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GRIPES! How do you people know all the names of the climbs? not all of you have the blackmarket book. Who can I talk to about meeting out there for tour?
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tigerbythetail
Aug 30, 2004, 10:57 PM
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In reply to: GRIPES! How do you people know all the names of the climbs?
Who said anyone did? Maybe the names get made up as we go.
In reply to: Who can I talk to about meeting out there for tour?
Jack or Jay will steer you in some direction...don't miss dinner at the SlashX.
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olvegrn
Aug 31, 2004, 4:29 AM
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oh, well in that case my favorite route is Alpha gamma quadrant 4295er. Thanks, I will contact one of those guys.
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handcrack
Aug 31, 2004, 4:30 AM
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jt512: I've done Red Book. Actually I think it's on Raven Rock. The route I mentioned is truly on Crossfire, up the loose hillside left of Evil Offspring. I'd like to know the real name of it.
I'd also like to get directions to Getaway. I read "the right (west) of two prominent canyons." As seen from where?
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tripperjm
Aug 31, 2004, 5:35 PM
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In reply to: How can a sleepy little out of the way area draw such strong opinions? In reply to: :lol: I've never been and don't plan on it. I haven't heard a good thing about it. I'd rather complete the drive to Vegas and climb a multipitch anyday. In reply to: I agree, chosspile. you can have the place. ive only been there once, ... i hung out with mr. marshal a bit and even he had something to say about the rock quality...calling it chode. if your on a route that hasnt been chocked up, watch where you put your hands as your likely to pull something off the route. ...it reminded me of the sport park in boulder canyon. In reply to: In truth New Jack City is probably the worst, and certainly the ugliest, climbing area in the western U.S. If there was a climbing area in Hell, I'm sure it would look very similar. They could have filmed the Mordor part of LOTR there. Only a diehard few LA area climbers go there despite the dearth of local crags, most continue on 2 more hours to Vegas, which has the best winter climbing in America. In reply to: The rock is choss, bring your crowbar if you're going to put up any routes. It's contrived, trashy, ugly. The area's real name is Sawtooth Canyon In reply to: I have never dragged myself out to this area.I hear its windy with lots of trash. In reply to: New Jack City, California. ....Questionable rock, lots of glass, gunshots, ATVs. In reply to: In reply to: I agree 1000% that New Jack sucks! I can't belive somebody blighted that foul stone with so many bolts! What a sh-t hole! HAHAHA!!!1 In reply to: ...a typical soft rated NJC climb In reply to: If the "ear" in question is carriage-bolted to the rock, you're talking about Espresso (5.10c). In reply to: Not the best rock ever .... In reply to: well, seeing that there is no real guidebook since like 1890 and the only way to get a hold of it is to buy it off the black market or somthing, I don't really know a single name of any route in New Jack. I have been there a few times but everyone seems too pissed that some people want to know the name and difficulty of a climb. In reply to: NJC certainly has its faults,... In reply to: .... especially at a place like NJC where holds have been known to blow out. In reply to: I seem to climb a lot of choss too Like the kind at NJC In reply to: piles of gunshells and broken glass at NJC
Seriously guys, I hate to admit it, but I've been out to that choss pile and everything you hear is true! There has got to be a better place to climb, even if your a local socal. I would definitely not travel any distance to go there. My suggestion isIn reply to: avoid that place like the plague In reply to: For better or worse, the popular walls will be included in the upcoming revision of the Mayr/Sweeny SoCal sport climbing guide book. A dedicated NJC guidebook will be published afterward
Oh yea... my favorite route. Either "Travisty" 12d or "You Don't Know Jack" 12c.
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soulsurfer
Aug 31, 2004, 6:25 PM
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Sure are a lot of people climbing there for a pile! Must be a fun pile. :lol:
Did one of my first leads there about 4 yrs ago. I can be seen hang dogging up some route at leat once or twice a year there getting a good pump and having fun with friends. Even broken off a few holds myself, and contine to go back.
Must be honest and say I have never gotten attitude there, only 'check this route out' or 'have you climbed ______ yet?' And I actually have added to the piles of gun casings!
Cross Fire is my favorite for now. Good moves for sure.
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jt512
Aug 31, 2004, 7:29 PM
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In reply to: jt512: I've done Red Book. Actually I think it's on Raven Rock. The route I mentioned is truly on Crossfire, up the loose hillside left of Evil Offspring. I'd like to know the real name of it.
You're right. Red Book is on Raven. I was confused. I'm not sure which route on Crossfire you're referring to. Must be my early-onset Alzheimer's again.
In reply to: I'd also like to get directions to Getaway. I read "the right (west) of two prominent canyons." As seen from where?
I think you can see both canyons from from the parking area. The left canyon, the Fairway, goes up behind Raven Rock. The Getaway is the canyon immediately west of the Fairway.
You're talking like you're headed out there soon. Isn't it still a bit warm?
-Jay
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socalbolter
Aug 31, 2004, 8:20 PM
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good job jack! one of the best cut and paste jobs i've yet seen on this forum.
as for NJC, it's not the best of rock, but it's great fun and tripper and others have put in a lot of work to provide us all with another option for local climbing. say what you will about it, but i like it and i'm glad it's there. just take it for what it is and have fun. if you can't manage that - don't go.
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tripperjm
Sep 1, 2004, 1:56 PM
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In reply to: Sure are a lot of people climbing there for a pile! Must be a fun pile. :lol:
SILENCE !!!1 Stick with the party line.... or did you forget about the confidentially agreement you signed when you first entered the area?
In reply to: In reply to: I've never been and don't plan on it. Good, that's one less person to worry about crowding the area. In reply to: I haven't heard a good thing about it. And you won't either, because it's even worse than you can imagine...
I don't want my favorite dive bar in Barstow to get too crowded!
My personal thanks to everyone I quoted in my previous post, for sticking to the agreed story.
So remember "The place is a choss pile... don't bother going out there!"
For those of you foolish enough to go out there, I will post a list of "My Personal Favorites" top 40 routes in the area, when I get back from climbing today.
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chimp-chimp
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Sep 1, 2004, 3:17 PM
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A bunch of us went over to Predator and climbed a little there. I dug Rainbow Drive a lot. I actually thought it to be a little stiff for the grade. What was it, .11b/c?
I think NJC is a total pile. One of the worst crags I've EVER been to. And I'm totally going back this fall! It's a great place to bag a bunch of routes and have a really fun time doing it.
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