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anjalidas


Aug 31, 2004, 11:48 AM
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Ruminations on Zodiac
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Quotations are used here to show these ideas as randomly written passages rather than a linear thought progression.

“Being an olympic finalist in the Self-Absorbed category, I certainly appreciate all the attention. But sometimes I feel we’re acting like a bunch of sincere but hypocritical citizens, arguing over what coat is appropriate for a neglected child when dozens more children suffer without…
what about the hundred and thirty(ish) bolts on Cosmos about to turn 30 in a couple years and looking much worse for wear, or the similar situation on Tis-sa-ack, what about the equally ancient dowel ladders on Mescalito and Pacific Ocean Wall (Mescalito is often in the top five most popular el cap climbs), or the anchors on Sunkist.-- wouldn’t the aging and dangerous bolts on these routes be a more appropriate place to explore ethics in anchor maintenance. That way different replacement styles could be examined objectively, and more dangerous bolts would be replaced. Let's not allow this community service based bickering to lead to severe regulation concerning climbing in Yosemite (like special use permits being required for all overnight climbs or for any drilling). Let's not allow these classic climbs to become like neglected children in a world of plenty.”

“Volunteering is like meditation or prayer—it’s more of a practice than anything. You never really feel like you’re good enough at it but the benefits you receive motivate you to continue trying.”

“Ahhhh, all life is art--Brian and his crew’s antics are just Pollock-like splashes on the bitchin canvas of Yosemite culture”

“Climbing, heck America, has always been ripe with vigilantism—that means shit gets done! The drawback is that sometimes those actions are later lamented.”

“It would be easy to look at this in a vacuum, as if “cleaning up” Zodiac will equate to more responsible rockclimbing by most climbers concerning things like fixing gear, drilling bat hooks/bolts, ect. Unfortunately the history of clean-ups on the Nose and elsewhere has shown how hard it is to reach consensus on these issues. Nonetheless, what Brian, Ivo and Gabe are doing is great because it shows that responsibility starts with each of us. And responsibility toward finding creative solutions to problems, from the management of public land climbing areas to sustainable food production and the public education system, is sorely needed in America today.”


“Not one of the climbers who contributed the 8-15 mostly poorly placed bolts that used to be at each belay on Zodiac did so with the intention of changing the route for the worse—they drilled because they were gripped. The result was a barely safe eyesore. Fighting over how to clean up the mess seems silly—there’s eighty-something other routes on el cap many of which are in similar shape”

“The spirit of volunteering is not being attached in case what you’ve offered was not a perfect fit for the situation—volunteers usually have day jobs/relationships/families/hobbies that bring plenty of attachment”

“There has always been a strong tradition of vigilantism in climbing, in the history of the United States for that matter. And that’s very beautiful in terms of seeing true inspiration, of seeing talent taken to the kind of limits that produce real heroes and visionaries. Of course, this also means disputes tend to be intense—the same enthusiastic faith that allows us to claw up unknown terrain and pull off the improbable also makes us susceptible to unhealthy intransigence—community is about finding common ground”


“Big wall maintenance presents unique challenges because of how physically challenging it is to climb these routes normally—not to mention stopping for hours at a time to replace bolts and hauling all the additional hardware/food/water to be able to do so. You have to REALLY like wall climbing to approach giving back.”

“Getting your butt kicked on lead and then spending your belays pounding in new bolts is more vocation than vacation—I think it’s understandable that sometimes we get attached to our efforts”

“When Brian went up on El Cap and replaced all the lead and anchor bolts on the first ten pitches of New Dawn he gave the climbing community a gift that could last 20+ years. That’s the generous spirit of anchor maintenance.”

“We definitely made some mistakes along the way. Talking up a couple sensitive bolt replacement issues (like the new ladder on pitch five of Zodiac) initially turned people off toward maintaining the crags. Hey--even giving back ain’t easy.”

“The fact that so many bolts are poorly placed reflects not the drillers' intentions but the desperation which often provokes drilling in the first place. To make matters worse, most climbers venturing up big walls today do so without any drilling knowledge or experience.”

“A gift is something given without expectation of recompense.”


“Most climbers have no idea how hard anchor maintenance is on walls. The same person who climbed till ten o’clock at night on Washington Column and ate cold spaghetti standing in slings will sit there and tell you which bolts ought to be replaced—I encourage them to start with the basics, like learning how to drill.”

“I think Chris McNamara has been remarkably charitable in providing drills, bolts, and endless expertise to people psyched to maintain fixed anchors—heck, most twenty-something climbers I know won’t walk to the corner table for a half-eaten pizza unless its organic, fresh-sprouted and comes with big breasts”

"If climbing makes you experience love, if being in nature inspires you to relate to your world in a more inclusive and celebratory way--go with that. Don't worry that that love will lead you to many desperate runouts and insane challenges--believe that the new you on the other side of those experiences will reflect your enthusiasm even more beautifully than you can imagine... and looking back you will feel only reverence for the gifts of those challenges, only optimism about your potential and the potential of those around you"

best,
erik sloan


epic_ed


Aug 31, 2004, 12:32 PM
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epic_ed moved this thread from General to Aid Climbing.


epic_ed


Aug 31, 2004, 12:35 PM
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It would be great if you provided attribution for each of those quotes. It's nice to know who is saying what.

And welcome to the board!


iamthewallress


Aug 31, 2004, 12:36 PM
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It would be great if you provided attribution for each of those quotes. It's nice to know who is saying what.

My sense from the opening paragraph was that they were all attributed to the author.


ricardol


Aug 31, 2004, 1:08 PM
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nope they are from different people -- go check out the duplicate post in ST ..

-- ricardo


iamthewallress


Aug 31, 2004, 1:17 PM
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nope they are from different people -- go check out the duplicate post in ST ..

-- ricardo

What of that post which says the same thing makes you think that they are quotes from different people?

No matter to me if they are...I wouldn't start quoting people that I talked to by name unless I asked them to do so anyway...

In reply to:
Quotations are used here to show these ideas as randomly written passages rather than a linear thought progression.


ricardol


Aug 31, 2004, 1:21 PM
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nope they are from different people -- go check out the duplicate post in ST ..

-- ricardo

What of that post which says the same thing makes you think that they are quotes from different people?

No matter to me if they are...I wouldn't start quoting people that I talked to by name unless I asked them to do so anyway...

.. who really quotes themselves?? - really .. hehe .. the poster on ST is nanook -- he doesn't strike me as the kind of guy who quotes himself.

.. also it sounds like different people .. from the words to the ideas being presented...


dsafanda


Aug 31, 2004, 1:22 PM
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I'm with Melissa. I think it's all Erik...er I mean...Nanook...err I mean anjalidas.

He explained in the very first sentence why he use the quotes.
In reply to:
Quotations are used here to show these ideas as randomly written passages rather than a linear thought progression.

Lot's of yoga has made him very flexible not in only in body but in mind. :wink:


iamthewallress


Aug 31, 2004, 1:25 PM
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...who begins their posts with ellipses?

...why would someone want to break there thoughts up like this?

....I don't really know if Nanook is the kind of guy who would use elipses or not?

...I wouln't know that about anyone whose writing I did not read regularly though.

...I would be more inclined to believe that he was not jotting down paragraph-long quotes from philosophers in the meadow.

...not that this matters really to the content of the posts

...which I enjoyed and found thought-provoking.


ricardol


Aug 31, 2004, 1:29 PM
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...who begins their posts with ellipses?

.. i do ...

* sheesh * .. great post erik

-- ricardo


iamthewallress


Aug 31, 2004, 1:33 PM
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...who begins their posts with ellipses?

.. i do ...

:wink:


dingus


Aug 31, 2004, 1:37 PM
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...who begins their posts with ellipses?

...why would someone want to break there thoughts up like this?

....I don't really know if Nanook is the kind of guy who would use elipses or not?

...I wouln't know that about anyone whose writing I did not read regularly though.

...I would be more inclined to believe that he was not jotting down paragraph-long quotes from philosophers in the meadow.

...not that this matters really to the content of the posts

...which I enjoyed and found thought-provoking.

Way to linear for a total ellipse of the thread! Maybe you could edit the post and shuffle the deck so to speak?

DMT


iamthewallress


Aug 31, 2004, 1:45 PM
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Way to linear for a total ellipse of the thread!


...Every now and then I get a little bit restless and I dream of something wild...

...When I'm typing/thinking elipses feel more like a pause than just one period...

...

...

Um

...

...total ellipse of the thread....Turn around bright eyes...ooohhh


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