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cacti-tro
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Aug 31, 2004, 6:28 PM
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hey all, i have a few questions about building a wall. i know how to frame a regular wall, but i want to make this one, "not so regular."
what i'm asking is, have any of you built or seen a small self standing indoor wall,(4'-8'x8'-12'), that you could adjust the angle of at your liesure? from 30 degrees to 60 degrees to horazontal, or in that area...
thanks for any help on this everyone.
Tro.
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omenbringer
Aug 31, 2004, 6:48 PM
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In reply to: hey all, i have a few questions about building a wall. i know how to frame a regular wall, but i want to make this one, "not so regular." what i'm asking is, have any of you built or seen a small indoor wall,(4'-8'x8'-12'), that you could adjust the angle of at your liesure? from 30 degree to 60 degrees to horazontal, or in theat area... thanks for any help on this everyone. Tro. |
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cacti-tro
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Sep 1, 2004, 4:43 AM
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thx, i'll check that out.
Tro
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adam
Sep 1, 2004, 7:07 AM
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I'd love to see the pictures as well. I'm in the planning stages of my 8' by 12' wall. I've decided it needs to be adjustable [vertical to at least 45 degrees] and I'd like to make it free standing if possible, but I haven't got that far yet.
I've been reading the PDF available off of Metolius' site. http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/...ouldering%20Wall.pdf Was there a guide specifically for free standing walls, or did you adapt their plans?
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veganboyjosh
Sep 1, 2004, 8:15 AM
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a friend of mine built one with two sheets of plywood. oriented with the long end on a horizontal axis, the two sheets had some heavy duty hinges between them. the "legs" were constructed out of 2x4's, in the shape of an upside down "t", with 45 degree braces for sturdiness.
then at the top of the t and along side the edges of the 2x4 which is along the top sheet's sides, he drilled holes at various spots, so that with one more 2x4 and some lag bolts, he could alter the top sheet's angle, and the center of gravity was never past the legs of the thing, even with him on it. i think the max angle he had was 45 degrees when the top sheet was dropped as far as it would go.
i realize this description is wacky. a picture would make it much easier. but alas, i have none.
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adam
Sep 1, 2004, 4:19 PM
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Synrock has some good shots of a pretty simple adjustable wall http://www.synrockholds.com/adjconst.html. I'm building mine [8' by 12'] in an indoor double garage and I'm not sure that the even if I hit the studs [which are behind drywall] that the anchors will be enough to hold the wall. I think I'd feel better overall if it was free standing, but haven't seen any good plans out there for one. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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omenbringer
Sep 3, 2004, 6:56 AM
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In reply to: Synrock has some good shots of a pretty simple adjustable wall http://www.synrockholds.com/adjconst.html. I'm building mine [8' by 12'] in an indoor double garage and I'm not sure that the even if I hit the studs [which are behind drywall] that the anchors will be enough to hold the wall. I think I'd feel better overall if it was free standing, but haven't seen any good plans out there for one. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Side Profile
Another Side Profile
Front View
Shot of A Frame brace
If you have any other questions about it, or want some other pictures let me know.
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omenbringer
Sep 3, 2004, 7:37 AM
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I built my wall off of plans I found on there website over 3 years ago. After looking at the link you gave I would say they have apparently changed.
One thing I will say, regardless of what Metolius' says, space your studs every 16" also self driving drywall screws are plenty strong for this application and will make your construction time much quicker.
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adam
Sep 3, 2004, 6:05 PM
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In reply to: I built my wall off of plans I found on there web site over 3 years ago. After looking at the link you gave I would say they have apparently changed.
Thanks for posting your pictures, they give me a better idea of the approach to take. What I'm concerned about is the 12' wide wall flexing if it is just supported on either side of the structure. I agree with you about the synrock plans might be a problem if I'm anchoring into wall studs instead of joists. I was thinking that I could try sinking an anchor in 6 to 10 of the wall studs and try to equalize the load on them, not sure how I would do that with chains though [other than by using 6 to 10 separate chains, which might work].
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euan
Sep 3, 2004, 6:48 PM
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my wall is a freestanding 8 ft high by 12 ft wide. frame is built on 2x6's and supported on either side by an A frame. it's pretty strong for my weight. I'm only 115 lbs. though.
I built the frame like this.
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cacti-tro
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Sep 4, 2004, 3:31 AM
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this is my best idea so far. with this design, i can simulate a horazontal roof, unlike most of the ideas i've seen so far...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...tPhoto&PhotoID=39233
what do you all think?
Tro
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armsrforclimbing
Sep 4, 2004, 5:05 AM
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Hey check out this pic, its adjustable from a forty five down to about a twenty. With some minor adjustments it could be made to go above a forty five. The wall stands alone, with no outside support.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=37826
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yo_escalado
Sep 5, 2004, 4:56 PM
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a friend built just a regular frame and attached it to some hinges on his deck :) pretty easy
Go Vikes![violet][/violet]
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omenbringer
Sep 7, 2004, 4:38 PM
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In reply to: this is my best idea so far. with this design, i can simulate a horazontal roof, unlike most of the ideas i've seen so far... what do you all think? Tro
I remember reading in one of Eric Horst' books that horizontal walls were the least effective for training while the most effective angles to train on are between 30-45 degress overhung.
Also in regards to your framing plans I would say that you might want to use 1/2" by 6" bolts for your pivot point instead of a wooden dowel, the bolts should be easier to install and will be easier to service and inspect for damage. Further, I would put additional framing inside, instead of a single diagonal length of lumber I would put an X, your wall may weigh more than you think and the single length of lumber may not be able to handle the weight. Lastly, keep in mind that after all is said and done, a horizontal wall may be difficult to climb on due to the confined space available below it, especially if, like most people, you use old mattresses for crash pads. Just some thoughts, and good luck with the build.
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cacti-tro
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Sep 7, 2004, 7:15 PM
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hey omen, i think you're probly right about the x framing. but for you main question, i want to simulate a horazontal wall for 1 major reason. way up here in the central states, we have this climbing area called Willow river. it is essentially a huge ampletheater. it has a 15-20 foot vertical aproach, as we like to call it, and then a horazontal roof of about 20 feet. after that it angles up for about 15 more feet at a 45 degree, and finishes vertical after about 10-20 more feet. the easiest thing on the wall is a 12.c and i have every move wired. i just lose energy and my feet start comming off. i want to train on horazontal mostly for footwork purposes, and to also build up some core tension. simulation is the key reason i supose.
Thanks for your thoughts, i think i will rework the framming...
Tro.
ps, here is a link to Willow a climbing pic if you want to see.
http://www.dawho.com/...review.asp?picid=753
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omenbringer
Sep 7, 2004, 7:48 PM
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In reply to: i want to simulate a horazontal wall for 1 major reason. way up here in the central states, we have this climbing area called Willow river. it is essentially a huge ampletheater. it has a 15-20 foot vertical aproach, as we like to call it, and then a horazontal roof of about 20 feet. after that it angles up for about 15 more feet at a 45 degree, and finishes vertical after about 10-20 more feet. the easiest thing on the wall is a 12.c and i have every move wired. i just lose energy and my feet start comming off. i want to train on horazontal mostly for footwork purposes, and to also build up some core tension. simulation is the key reason i supose.
First, set up your framing so that you can shift the pivot point i.e for vertical to about 60 degrees overhanging you'll use the middle of the x, for horizontal you'll move the wall forward and the pivot point will shift to the top of the wall and to the forward upper corner. Once thats done you'll push/raise the wall back and anchor it to the back upper corner. For this I would also suggest you use a pulley to raise the wall and also use the hole you have in the middle of your wall (where the regular pivot point is) as additional support and assurance, have I mentioned use 1/2 inch bolts yet? The advantage to this will be that you'll have more height to play with so you wont feel so claustrophobic and when you are not using your wall you can get it up out of the way, which is good if you build it in a small garage where you still want to park a car.
Second, over build the framing, your wall will weigh a lot, not to mention it will also have your weight hanging off of it. I think I mentioned it before but, place your wall studs every 16" instead of 24" this will help control bowing and warping. Also reinforce all the corners on the support frame. Once again good luck with the build.
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camoaero
Sep 18, 2004, 1:00 PM
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Does anyone have any pics of the back of their adjustable wall? I'd like to get an idea of of what the connections look like. Are chains the usual choice for support?
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anykineclimb
Sep 18, 2004, 1:18 PM
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the best design I've seen was for an 8x 16 wall. Built will 2x4 16"oc and a 2x12 header there was minimal flex.
for the "legs" it used a 2x8 on each end. attatched at each end on the base were 4x4s(notched) with 1" holes every 2ft. a hole in the 2x8 and a carriage bolt provided the adjustability.
get it?
wall /\
/ \
/ \"leg"
/ \
/ \
/ \
--------------------base
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