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sbclimber
Jul 17, 2003, 1:03 AM
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Registered: Mar 2, 2003
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I was wondering if anybody out there has ever climbed at sespe gorge, could they please give me any advice they have about the routes tree route and ending crack, and/or any other route there I shouldn't miss. I would really like to know what type gear to bring and sizes also.
This will be my first trad lead ever, so any advice is appreciated.
Also, if anybody knows anywhere else in the LA-Santa Barbara area that is good for beginning trad climbers, info on that is also greatly appreciated. thanks a lot.
Robbie
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micronut
Jul 17, 2003, 1:47 AM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2002
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o.k Robbie, first don't even show up at the wall until 2:00 p.m. this time of year, otherwise you'll just melt and die. It's in the shade in the afternoon.
The Tree Route and The Ending Crack are the best routes up there. Take long slings for the belay on Tree route. A 60 m rope is handy to link the second and third pitch together. Also, one 60m rope will barely get you off in 3 raps, swinging to the side on the last rap, taking care not to go off the end. Or, make it easy on yourself and bring two ropes. On Ending Crack, there is a fixed rap station about half way up, 4 feet right of the route that can be used as a belay anchor for the first pitch (recommended). Take some thin cams for the second pitch, and move right where the crack peters out. Do two 40m raps, or three 30m raps down Tree Route.
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hasbeen
Jul 17, 2003, 10:46 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2003
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That's good beta and those are the two best beginning trad routes in the area.
The Gibraltar face is also a good one. If you wander a bit and bring some slings you can sew it up. Rock is solid and the climbing very easy.
For a bit more adventure (and a great route), try Slacker or The Cresent on Upper Gibraltar, which is also usually hot this time of year. There are a few options here. Slacker combines the low wide crack to a steep section with bolts. Belay on a large ledge and either climb the bolted second pitch (5.9), or move right into a thin crack system (this is the top of The Cresent, slightly dicey pro but under 5.8). There are also some other cracks up here that are okay (the bolted lines are better but harder) but if you freak out you can always traverse out and clip a bolt.
Also in this area, Lieback Annie is a short pretty corner that's quite easy. Approach via rappel off the bolts for The Rapture (5.9 bolted arete).
Have fun!
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muleypt
Jul 18, 2003, 12:01 AM
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Registered: Mar 14, 2002
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Sespe Wall - check out "Mike's Blocks" (may be a bit off on name/spelling). It's a fun (and a little dirty) 5.6 that follows underneath a right leaning diagonal block located about 75 feet left of the gauging platform. Once you top out at the end of the block - do some traversing left over to some trees w/slings. Need some small TCU's and Cams to about 2.5. Also some slings for those cool pass-through solution pockets. Maybe save it for your second visit when your up for a little more adventure. Go later, stay cooler. Have fun! :)
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sbclimber
Jul 18, 2003, 8:05 PM
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Registered: Mar 2, 2003
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thanks for the info everyone. I cant wait to get out there tomorrow and put it to use.
the ending crack looks like such a great line.
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climballnight
Sep 3, 2004, 8:05 AM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2004
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Moving thread to United States-California-Sespe Gorge
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