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lossinsantafe
Jun 8, 2004, 9:41 PM
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After a week of trying, I finally sent the crack across the stream from the overhang. Does it have a name? It's definately only in the v1 range, but its a nice sequence.
I'll post some pics of the send in a little bit...
Max
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lossinsantafe
Jun 9, 2004, 12:57 AM
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I dub thee 'Flappy Monkey Swing'.
Flappy for the amount of skin inside the crack, and monkey swing for the cruz.
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wyattearp
Jun 9, 2004, 2:51 AM
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right on, I have yet to climb it and i am a little unsure a to where it is.....?
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lossinsantafe
Jun 9, 2004, 3:04 PM
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If you can't tell from the pics, I'll give you directions from the overhang.
Starting off from your problem, about face, and you'll see the two boulders forming a 3 foot wide crack, the ground starts uphill inside the clearing. Follow the perimeter of the larger boulder, make a hop over the stream. Now turn back to face the boulder, and you'll be facing the drilled pockets (don't know the name of that prob, too hard for me). 4 or 5 feet up the hill you will see a nice crack about 2" deep. The sequence goes toe pocket + smear to the top of crack, get your left foot flagged under you a little onto a slight positive hold on the right of the crack, then short dyno to a sloper on the overhang (spotting is helpful, i peeled a good 30 times, the landing is pretty clean tho), after you get your right hand on the sloper, pull up to get left hand into a seriously off width, then a positive hold for your right hand and heel hook to top out.
I've cleaned a little bit of lichen on the top out, so it is slightly highlighted.
I'm sure the problem is contrived, so don't take this too literally, I have to use footwork to counter my weight (190).
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wyattearp
Jun 9, 2004, 5:52 PM
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Right on Im almost positive i know where it is, I will have to try and fire it when i come back! If you head farther up that hill havew you checked out the boulders farther up, there is one that looks like a wave with a sweet arete on it, may be a little hard though! Also, if you continue to hike up the riverbed there are a couple other aslightly develpoed areas, not a s nice as the overhand but very decent, look foeward to pullin down!
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rh2848
Aug 17, 2004, 7:40 PM
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Registered: Jun 28, 2004
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That crack problem is called "The Lifestyle" and was climbed years ago by Leif Johnson. There is a left finish at the top, as well as a direct low start from the right. To the right of the crack there are 3 more problems, the rightmost being "Okubo" starting low on the slopey bulge and climbing through on slopers and weird little edges. It's cool.
Leif and myself, and a few other Santa Feans were VERY VERY active with developing that area (always referred to for years by everyone as Glorieta, not Apache Canyon) and there are over 200 established problems and variations extending the length of the canyon. Basically, if it isn't totally friable and covered in sand it HAS been climbed, at some point. Notable exceptions may be problems that would top out on the left hand side of the streambed overhang. We never really went into that. But on that overhang alone, Leif and I have climbed nearly 40 problems, link-ups, and variations from v1 to v10. So, if anyone wants to know what something out there is, PM me. I know.
The chipping out there is really fucked up, though. It isn't so much the stupid pockets there are pocked here and there with no rhyme or reason, but it is the chipping, and enhancing of allready established problems that is disgusting. "Hello Panda" (across from the streambed overhang up hill 50 feet between the 2 boulders, overhanging arete) was enhanced by some wang smoker when the thing has been done dozens and dozens of times and was only v6. Fucking sad. And there were a few other problems that had been done that were mauled, including the right hand finish variation of the "indeed very hard" problem on the "wave" up the hill (as Wyatt calls it) which was climbed some 5 years ago. Oh yeah, that problem is called "the Geisha" and is/was v9 or 11 depending on the variation.
Basically, same as Timy had issues with your (Wyatt) posting of problems at the Temple, get the facts straight before spraying about areas people have done ALOT of work to develop.
Rich Heisler
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lossinsantafe
Sep 7, 2004, 12:02 AM
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Thanks for the knowledge, much respect to Lief, I've updated the route on here.
Doesn't really matter, but for curiousity's sake, did he put it at v1?
I've tried the sit-start probs from the right, will have to keep working at the, glad to know it is possible.
What's the name of the problem directly to the left where some asswad drilled, that must be up there in the ratings I can only make the first two moves.
Max
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kj272
Nov 26, 2008, 7:29 PM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2008
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I have lived in santa fe my whole life, and have climbed qit a bit in deer creek. I have been working on a problam on the overhang for a while that ends on the diving board, and an wierd mantle with a heel hook. I was wondering if anybody has done this route and has any advice on the last move.
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