Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
cams: walking, possibly running
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


skateman


Sep 7, 2004, 6:06 PM
Post #1 of 11 (1773 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 186

cams: walking, possibly running
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hi All,

My second was unable to retrieve two #2 robot cams in the last two weeks. I had to be lowered from the top of a climb to retrieve a #3 robot as well. The placement of the #3
appeared to be perfect. However, the #3 was in a good inch from where I placed it initially.

I haven't had any problems with my Metolius and BD cams. I'm wondering if anyone else is having problems with Rock Empire Robots walking-running? May be time to pass the remaining robots off to someone less fortunate than me!

Dan


jumpingrock


Sep 7, 2004, 6:12 PM
Post #2 of 11 (1773 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 5692

Re: cams: walking, possibly running [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In my fairly limited experiance, it seems to me that cams walk/run more or less depending on several factors. a) how rigid the stem is. b) how much rope drag there is. c) whether you clipped directly into the cam's sling or you use a quick draw/sling.

That said, I find that it takes me just as long to place a cam as I take to place a passive piece simply because I usually wiggle it back and forth a bit to see what would happen if it walked. Occasionally I have discovered that I had a poor placement that would have walked right out and no longer been safe. On other occasions I have discovered that the piece walks into a very unfavorable position for retreval.

but I am not a very experianced leader so take everything I said with a grain or 10 of salt.


barc


Sep 7, 2004, 6:17 PM
Post #3 of 11 (1773 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 19, 2002
Posts: 116

Re: cams: walking, possibly running [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The u-stem walk quite a bit more than the single stem designs. I don't think that robots would walk any more than metolious of the same sizes. Are you talking about large robots? Because the large sizes walk quite a bit more. Don't forget, though, all cams walk.

Elliott

P.S. I like rock empire cams.


maculated


Sep 7, 2004, 6:18 PM
Post #4 of 11 (1773 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179

Re: cams: walking, possibly running [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have NO experience with robot cams (don't even know who makes them), but I do know that I find a lot of fixed/walked cams of various types (specifically tech friends) that, upon siting, I usually call as say, Wild Country, because of the frequency of finding them in fixed positions. This could also be because people don't work as hard at cleaning them as the BDs and T/FCUs, since these are genuine excitement-inducing booty.


skateman


Sep 7, 2004, 6:21 PM
Post #5 of 11 (1773 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 186

Re: cams: walking, possibly running [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hey Jumping,

I usually give the cam a little wiggle as well and I always extend nuts and almost always
extend cams. The rock Empire cams have extendable sling which sometimes eliminate
the need for extension (in theory anyway). The route I was on was Jackie in the Gunks.
If I remember correctly there was very little rope drag. The #3 that got stuck was the last
piece of pro that was placed. Thanks for the input though!

S


crimpandgo


Sep 7, 2004, 7:08 PM
Post #6 of 11 (1773 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 15, 2004
Posts: 1005

Re: cams: walking, possibly running [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

skateman, have you tried a search on this site? I remember a few posts about the Empire cams and how prone they are to walking.


skateman


Sep 7, 2004, 8:14 PM
Post #7 of 11 (1773 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 186

Re: cams: walking, possibly running [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Crimp,

I checked some of the post and gear reviews on the RE cams. The reviews were favorable on the smaller RE's (eg. #2 & #3). Perhaps I may have overcammed the cams to begin with. Also I have been climbing with relatively inexperienced seconds. (I was able to
retrieve a cam that my second could not)

I'm going to re-evaluate my cam collection (BD, RE, Metolius) and make a determination which mfg I wish to go with.

Thanks all!


jimfix


Sep 7, 2004, 8:44 PM
Post #8 of 11 (1773 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 18, 2004
Posts: 314

Re: cams: walking, possibly running [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

A good idea for cam retrieval is to carry a nut tool with double hooks on the end. These are a little bit heavier/bulky, but will save you losing a cam or your knuckles trying to get one back.

U-stem cams are easier to retrieve with one of these tools, as the bar is easier to grab. On single stem models you have to get the hook over the stem so the tool can pull both sides of the trigger bar.

Stick with robots, their not bad cams and who can complain with the price.


rcaret


Sep 7, 2004, 8:57 PM
Post #9 of 11 (1773 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 30, 2002
Posts: 227

Re: cams: walking, possibly running [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Robot cams do walk ( Rock Empire makes them ) I have two sets and use them quite often in shallow cracks because of this problem , The two largest of the set walk the most and longer runners do help , The smalest cams walk the least.


karlbaba


Sep 9, 2004, 11:59 PM
Post #10 of 11 (1773 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 10, 2002
Posts: 1159

Re: cams: walking, possibly running [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Longer runners help. Also, it helps if you place your cam below or outside a bump or constriction that will resist the cam's tendency to walk. You'd be surprised how little nuances in the stone can help cams from getting out of control

Peace

Karl


iclimblilrocks


Sep 10, 2004, 1:04 AM
Post #11 of 11 (1773 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 6, 2004
Posts: 208

Re: cams: walking, possibly running [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

just give them to me... might have been caused by rope drag pushing it farther into the crack but im not sure


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook