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mgr


Sep 11, 2004, 4:58 PM
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Cams for Gunks climbing
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Hey everybody, I'm starting to build my trad rack. Even though I don't lead yet, I'm trying to spread out the purchases. I already have a set of nuts and tricams in the smaller sizes. So I'm asking what size/brand of cams are the most usefull for climbing in the Gunks? I'll be using them to set up TR's and eventually use them for leading.

Thanks


gunked


Sep 11, 2004, 9:45 PM
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Re: Cams for Gunks climbing [In reply to]
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Lowe tricams or Metolius tri-camming units?

Besides that, Get 4 camalots: .5, .75, 1, 2

That's a really good start!

Beyond that (If you don't have metolius tri-cams), I'd say get the yellow alien followed by the green and the blue.

As far as top-ropes go, you'll want some really long 1 inch tubular webbing for the trees. There's no shortage of trees for setting up TR's in the Uberfall area. Heck, these days, there's no shortage of bolts for TR's in the Uberfall.

Good luck,
Jason :D


mgr


Sep 12, 2004, 11:47 AM
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Thanks Jason
I was talking about the Lowe Tri-cams. I have the first 4 sizes.


ben87


Sep 12, 2004, 11:57 AM
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Re: Cams for Gunks climbing [In reply to]
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aliens are popular at the gunks, as are tricams.

some things about the gunks:

*more horizontal placements than average
*a lot of placements are kinda funky
*lots of overhangs and wandering routes -- long runners are very useful (double ropes also address this problem well, but I haven't leared how to use em.)


danl


Sep 12, 2004, 12:38 PM
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Re: Cams for Gunks climbing [In reply to]
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Stoppers + micro stoppers or Rps

aliens blue through orange double of the yellow and green

Friends 2-4 or Camalots .75-3

pink red and brown tricam

that's pretty much every piece of gear you'll need to lead nearly every gunks climb


johnson6102002


Sep 12, 2004, 12:42 PM
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well mike maybe you should ask some of your freinds that you climb with what they think and maybe you can work on getting a rack for the both of you to use when you go climbing together

***hint***
call me latter


mgr


Sep 12, 2004, 6:41 PM
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OK Scott, you can buy everything and I'll just mooch off of you. :wink:


mheyman


Sep 12, 2004, 8:39 PM
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Any brand and type can be used successfully. If you want cheap check out Trango or Robots. If not then Aliens are great in the sizes equal or smaller than the 0.4 Camalot. Plenty of people will tell you that you won't need cams smaller that that for routes under 9 or 10. If your funds are not so limited, plan on getting at least two sizes smaller. I would recommend staying away from the very smallest sizes, as they will be less reliable. Plenty of people will recommend Flexible Friends or Metolius. Personally if you are not leading yet, I would consider waiting for new Camalots. If you are really pressed for cash, you might make a deal with someone who isn't, to buy their old Camalots when the new ones come out so they can replace theirs . I'd go for a reasonable deal like that.


paulraphael


Sep 13, 2004, 9:08 AM
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the first thing i bought when i started climbing at the gunks was a pink tricam. a lot of gunks regulars have two or three.
then a few aliens.
other than that, just a regular trad rack (though all my runners are shoulder length ... never even bring quickdraws).


jimdavis


Sep 13, 2004, 11:25 AM
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I've used a set of Metolius 4-cams there and loved them. The Aliens might be a little better due to the flex...but I liked the way the Metolius performed well enough to buy a set of them.

Jim


gunkiemike


Sep 13, 2004, 4:15 PM
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I believe that regardless of the level you lead at, you will find lots of uniform horizontal cracks that are too small for the pink Tricam. Rather than stuff a tight pinkie in there and get it stuck (this is the national sport of the Gunks), get either a green and yellow Alien (top choice), a blue and yellow Met. TCU (not bad but they don't flex "in the plane" so be careful if you place them off to the side of the route) or WC Zeros #5 and 6 (a bit finicky to get out because they are SO supple. And be careful not to overcam them, as some have overly aggressive triggers). Bigger cams e.g. Camalot to #2 are great but you want the small stuff first IMO.

For big cams, rigid Friends with the Gunks tie-off are robust and can be had CHEAP. Avoid the #1 as its stem is almost as fat as the head (can and does get stuck more easily than bigger sizes).


sruscu


Sep 21, 2004, 10:11 AM
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Re: Cams for Gunks climbing [In reply to]
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I also am trying to figure out Gunks gear . . . several people have mentioned 10 24" slings. Is this an appropriate amount? ALSO, I have yet to see anyone mention 48" slings. Why is that? Are they not used? Thanks!


ben87


Sep 21, 2004, 10:15 AM
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48 is a "double" right?

I definitly want at least one preferably 2 or 3 if I'm at the gunks.

I'd say they're widely used.


crackboy


Sep 21, 2004, 1:39 PM
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10 24" slings are adequate but if you plan on running anything together you might want an even dozen especially when you are starting out and are going to be placing a piece every move.



i would get a pair of 48" they come in handy.

anything more is overkill on a trad lead.


locker


Sep 21, 2004, 1:49 PM
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Whatever you buy..................make sure and load up with TRI CAMS. They rule.................in the Gunks and here in Jtree as well. I use them almost daily on some route....if not most


sruscu


Sep 21, 2004, 1:53 PM
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Thanks Locker.

Why do I see recommendations for racking 24" slings with ONE carabiner attached (for extending nuts and hexes)? Isn't is "mandatory" to clip sling to wire nut with one carabiner and rope to sling with another?


mgr


Sep 21, 2004, 6:52 PM
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Can't you also double the slings to make draws. Is there a special way to do this?


jumpingrock


Sep 21, 2004, 7:59 PM
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I have never heard of doubling but you can triple your sling and you should. Easiest way to carry a 24" and it can be used as a regular QD or easily converted into a full length sling.

1) Clip two biners onto the sling on opposite sides
2) Grab one biner and pass it through the other one
3) Clip that biner into the loop you just created (both strands)
4) Pull the two biners so that it resembles a QD

You can either use it in this fashion (though it would be a bit short for a trad draw methinks) or you can clip one biner into your gear, grab the other biner and unclip it from 2 of the 3 strands of the sling. And Voila you have your full length sling again.

Practice this at home b4 you try it on the rock. It's a fairly basic skill that every climber should know.


crackboy


Sep 22, 2004, 12:49 PM
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people just rack their slings differently depending on how they rack their gear, if you keep each cam/whatever on its own biner then, you only really need one biner on a sling since each piece will have its own.


you can double a shoulder length by just folding it inhalf and clip both ends, or you can throw a twist in it if you are worried about losing the biner

a tripled draw is the same length as a standard quickdraw, thats the beauty of slings, if you need the extra length you have it


mgr


Sep 22, 2004, 6:47 PM
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I tried tripling the sling and it worked. :D I've also seen people carry slings over their shoulder. Which is the better way to carry your slings? Or is it just personal preference?


jumpingrock


Sep 22, 2004, 8:03 PM
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I generally carry 2 or 3 slings in the tripled method like I explained. I will then carry a 1 or 2 48" slings in the following method. Clip a biner at each end. Drape the sling over your shoulder across your body. Clip the biners to the other end of the sling, so you have a continuous loop. That way when you need that sling you simply unclip the biners and pull it out (the important reason for this is that it can be under other slings and not interfere when you need it) After that I put on my gear slings, etc. Followed by 4 24" slings over my shoulder. That keeps every thing organized and means that I have options when I need them.


mgr


Sep 23, 2004, 5:27 PM
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Thanks. :)


debaser655321


Sep 23, 2004, 5:37 PM
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I trad at the gunks almost every week and find that my rack is fantatic.

One set of cams is enough, I have every color alien and get away with just that & a set of nuts on just about everything. (up to and beyond 5.9s)

Tricams are also nice, cheep and light.

Hold out for the new BD cams, They look kick ass. Don't worry so much about price. You'll have the cams for a long time and need to like using them.


tbenson


Sep 24, 2004, 5:32 PM
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I climb at the Gunks a couple times a week and almost every climb can use a pink tricam and a red alien. I personally rack Aliens for smaller cams, and Camalots (up to gold) for larger. Also A full set of nuts with a double thrown in here or there. I prefer my sling over the shoulder, but I think it is just personal preference.


dredsovrn


Sep 24, 2004, 5:38 PM
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TCU's Blue, Yellow, Orange, Red...FCU's Black, Green, Lt Blue, Purple. (Metolius that is) BD Camalots 2, 3.

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