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omenbringer
Sep 13, 2004, 6:37 PM
Post #1 of 7
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Registered: Sep 19, 2003
Posts: 248
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In the last few days a lot of RC.com users have asked me about my adjustable training wall.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=39180
Since the link I had found on the Net over three years ago, apparently no longer exists, I have decided to post the directions here. The whole thing requires very few tools, very basic carpentry skills, and a fairly small initial outlay of money. Here you go, take it for what it's worth.
Materials:
(9-13) 2”x4”x8’ kiln dryed lumber (around $3.00 a piece)
(2) 4’x8’x3/4” CDX plywood sheets (around $35.00 a sheet)
5 lbs. Self driving coated Dry wall screws (easier to work with then nails and can be re-tightened if need be) should be about $5.00
(6) ½”x6” grade 5 galvanized course thread bolts ($1.00 a piece)
(20) ½” galvanized washers (about $.15 a piece)
(12) ½” course thread nuts (about $.25 a piece)
(2) approx. 2”x4”x(3-6)” blocks to act as spacers (free)
(300-800) ¾ inch? T nuts (price varies substantially so shop around and buy in bulk)
optional:
(4) 2”x6”x8’ kiln dryed lumber (around $6.00 a piece) These will replace (4) of the 2”x4”x8’ lumber
Total Cost: approx. $130.00 (without the T-nuts or holds)
Tools
(1) drill (cordless will work but, construction is much quicker with a corded drill)
(1) #2 Philips head attachment for your drill
(1) 3/4 inch drill bit
(1) 5/8 inch drill bit
(1) Tape measure
Optional
(1) circular saw (needed if you didn't get your lumber in the right lengths or you want more complex shapes)
(1) T-square
(1) Sanding Block with paper
(1) Planar (to smooth down serious splinters)
Construction steps:
First, build your frame by screwing together (4) 2”x4”x8’ pieces of lumber with (3) dry wall screws thru the top and bottom corners thus making a box. Ensure the corners of the box are 90 degrees so you don’t have any problems later.
Second, frame the inside of the Box by screwing a 2”x4”x8’ lumber stud every 16” (some sources say you can go every 24”, but I wouldn’t suggest this as your wall may flex and warp easier) you may use (2-3) dry wall screws to connect the tops and bottoms of the studs to the box frame.
Third, place the sheets of 4’x8’x3/4” CDX plywood over the box frame and secure them to both the box frame and the studs using the drywall screws approximately every 3-6”inches. There are two ways to lay the plywood parallel to the studs and perpendicular to the studs, I prefer perpendicular, but I don’t think it really matters.
Fourth, using a power drill and a 5/8” drill bit, drill four holes on the outside of the box frame. The first hole will be on the right side about 6” from the bottom. The next will be on the right side about 2’ from the top. You will do the same thing to the Left side. Check your measurements twice, these holes are for you’re a-frame adjustable supports, and if they are not the same your wall will lean and potentially collapse.
Fifth, draw grid lines on the plywood sheets, every 1’ is usually about right. Now you will start drilling (I think its ¾ inch but am not 100% sure) holes for your climbing holds. You may either drill where the lines intersect (pretty boring) or randomize buy drilling a hole with in about 6” of the lines intersections. Leave the bottom 18-24” hole free so you can screw on foot jibs later. Also remember not to hit any studs!!!
Sixth, Using either the remaining (4) 2”x4”x8’ lumber or the optional (4) 2”x6”x8’ lumber you will begin building the A-frame supports. For the supports, drill holes every 3” along the center line of the lumber, the entire length of the lumber. Make sure the holes line up, the easiest way to do this is to vice grip the lumber together in groups of two and drill through both. Should you do this, the first two done will be the top and the next two will be the bottom, make sure and mark them so you know where its twin is.
Seventh, you will take one support from each group and connect them together using (1) ½” bolt, (3) ½” washers, and (2) ½” nuts. When you connect them use the holes at the very end of the supports. To connect them place a washer on the bolt, push the bolt thru one piece of lumber, add a washer, push thru the other piece of lumber, add washer, then one nut, then the other. The two nuts will lock each other in place and keep them from moving, Don’t use a lock washer and locking nuts as this will make it hard for you to adjust your wall. Some other considerations; make sure the bolt head is on the inside of your support legs i.e. closest to the wall, that way you wont fall on it. Before you move on you will take a piece of 2”x4”x(3-6)” block and bolt it to the top of your supports (the top will be the side which is furthest from the wall) place a washer on the bolt, push the bolt thru the lumber, add a washer, push the bolt thru the block, add a washer. Keep in mind the excess bolt for the top will point in the opposite direction of the one on the bottom. At this point you are almost ready to raise the wall, but first you will have to make the other set of supports, remember though that they will be reflections of each other, not the same, i.e. one will have the excess bolt on the bottom pointing left the other will be right.
Next, you will connect the supports to the hole you drilled in the box frame approx. 2’ from the top of the wall. To do this all you have to do is push the bolt with the spacer through the hole for right now. Getting some help, pick the wall up to vertical, now is when you will feel how heavy your wall is. With someone holding the wall in place, put another washer on the top bolt, then finish it off with two nuts.
Finally connect the bottom of the supports to the frame by placing a washer on the remaining bolt, pushing it thru the bottom support lumber, another washer, then through the framing, washer and finally two nuts. At this point your wall will be set for 90 degrees, to adjust it’s angle all you have to do is play with the top and outside (corner that connects the supports together) bolts positions along the supports. You should be able to go from 90 degrees down to about 65-70 degrees overhanging.
Some considerations:
If you are heavy, you may want to consider using the 2”x6”x8’ lumber for your supports.
If you don’t want to use screw on foot jibs for the lower section of wall, then you will need to drill out the holes down there.
When adjusting the angle of your wall be sure to get the widest base possible from your supports, this will keep the wall from tipping over while you are climbing.
If you want more features on the wall, i.e dihedrals, arêtes, overhangs, etc. rather then adding it to the framing
(a lot more complicated) just build or purchase large removable features.
Lastly, for every hole you drilled in the plywood sheeting you will have to place a T-nut. You can just hammer them into the back or you can custom make a t-nut setting tool (I just hammered them in).
Now that my wall is complete where do I get holds?
Here are a few suppliers:
Atomic Holds
Cheap Holds
Crater Holds
E-Grips
EntrePrises USA
Franklin
Globe Climbing Holds
Griphead
Metolius
Nicros
Petrogrips
Pusher (Not sure if they still exist)
Stone Age Climbing
Synrock
VooDoo
Hopefully this will help those of you interested. If you have any further questions feel free to PM.
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ax
Sep 13, 2004, 10:04 PM
Post #2 of 7
(2248 views)
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Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 155
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That looks a lot like the one I used to have. On mine I put bolt hangers near the lower ends of the supports and in the lower corners of the wall. And then I just clipped slings + daisy chains from each support to the wall. I could make it really steep then with no worries about the legs sliding out. Climber sandwich. ;P
Anyway... it was pretty cool to train on for a while be there were a lot of limitations with the size. I was getting frustrated with one and two move boulder problems. Ultimately I tore it apart and built a system wall. I find it way more enjoyable and way more effective to train on. Been using that for a few years now and I still like it a lot more.
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omenbringer
Sep 14, 2004, 3:32 AM
Post #3 of 7
(2248 views)
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Registered: Sep 19, 2003
Posts: 248
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In reply to: Anyway... it was pretty cool to train on for a while be there were a lot of limitations with the size. I was getting frustrated with one and two move boulder problems. Ultimately I tore it apart and built a system wall. I find it way more enjoyable and way more effective to train on. Been using that for a few years now and I still like it a lot more.
In reply to: That looks a lot like the one I used to have. On mine I put bolt hangers near the lower ends of the supports and in the lower corners of the wall. And then I just clipped slings + daisy chains from each support to the wall. I could make it really steep then with no worries about the legs sliding out. Climber sandwich. ;P |
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synrock
Sep 15, 2004, 4:29 AM
Post #4 of 7
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Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
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This adj. wall is a bit simpler (less time, less material) to construct.
bowers
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n00b
Sep 15, 2004, 4:47 AM
Post #5 of 7
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 90
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About how much does the wall weigh? (including holds)
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omenbringer
Sep 16, 2004, 3:10 AM
Post #6 of 7
(2248 views)
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Registered: Sep 19, 2003
Posts: 248
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In reply to: This adj. wall is a bit simpler (less time, less material) to construct. bowers |
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omenbringer
Sep 16, 2004, 3:11 AM
Post #7 of 7
(2248 views)
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Registered: Sep 19, 2003
Posts: 248
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In reply to: About how much does the wall weigh? (including holds) |
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