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johnson6102002


Sep 14, 2004, 4:44 PM
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buying rack questions/help
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So im planning on buying a rack to start leading and i found these 4 packages by 3 different companys i was hopping others could help me out wiht their opinion of which one i should get and the reasons for there input! i would really appreciate this. Price is an issue and the best one for the money is what i am looking for.

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Choice One by Black diamond $ 575

6 BD Camalots 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3, 3.5
8 BD Wired Hexes 4-11
10 BD Stoppers 4-13
6-24 Spectra Slings
BD Nut Tool
BD Padded Gear Sling
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Choice two by metoulious $ 595

10 Power Cams, sizes 1-10,
10 Curved Nuts, sizes 1-10,
Multi-loop Gear Sling
Cam Maintenance Kit

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Choice three by wild country $ 545

8 Technical Friends 1, 1.25, 1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.5, 3 and 3.5
Seven WC Rockcentrics on Dyneema, numbers #3-9
Ten WC Rocks on wire, numbers #1-10

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Choice four by metoulious $ 659

Ten camming units (3 TCUs and 7 Power Cams),
A full set of Curve Nuts (1-10)
Five sizes of Curve Hex (5- 9)
Extractor Nut tool


cjcalls


Sep 14, 2004, 4:52 PM
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Re: buying rack questions/help [In reply to]
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It will depend on where you climb and what you climb.
any one will work.

( I like camalots my self)


johnson6102002


Sep 14, 2004, 5:05 PM
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the climbing would mostly be done in the gunks , the deleware water gap and the adirondacks. right now i can climb solid 5.9 on top rope


craghag


Sep 17, 2004, 8:04 AM
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Any chance you can try your partner's gear and find out what you like/don't like? They can also give you better beta regarding what works best for them in the areas you climb.


thedus


Sep 17, 2004, 8:54 AM
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I'd recommend Choice 1, primarily because it comes with both stoppers and hexes, but also because I'm a big fan of Camalots. A well placed hex is by far my favorite piece to climb above, and most of my lead falls have been onto stoppers, so naturally I feel partial to having both. Choice 1 is also the only set which comes with slings, and you will need those. None of the four seem to have biners, so you'll have to buy those in addition (I recommend 15-20 to start, but others' opinions may differ). You also might want to pick up some more slings (it's difficult to have too many).


ben87


Sep 17, 2004, 9:37 AM
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choice one is the only one I would want.


vegastradguy


Sep 17, 2004, 9:50 AM
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i like choice one because you also get some slings. the range covered by #1 is a nice range for a beginner. it leaves out the smaller cams, which many prefer to get from a diff. company (aliens, for example)...

dont forget you need carabiners for all that stuff.

the other deals are fine as well, so dont feel pressured.

personally, i would go with whatever brand you prefer. sure, money is an issue, but theres also a comfort level there. its all fine and dandy until you're at the crux fumbling for the right piece because you're used to Brand X, but to save some money you went with Brand Y.


shakylegs


Sep 17, 2004, 10:11 AM
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Add me to the choice 1, because you do seem to get more peripheral stuff for the price. But, judging from where you'll be climbing, I don't see you using the hexes all that much.


*thriller*
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Sep 17, 2004, 10:13 AM
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If you're going with choice number one, I'd wait a few weeks (hopefully?) for the new camalot C4's. From the reviews i've heard, they've got some good advantages over the currents camalots, not worth replacing a current rack for, but worth waiting for if you're planning on buying.

-Ian


johnson6102002


Sep 17, 2004, 10:26 AM
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taking into acount that i have no ones rack that i can mouch off of or test out listing to all of you rviews on the subject i am thinking about doing this plaese tell me what you think for my situation
BD camalot C4 .75 - 3
metoulious curve nuts full set
Set of .5 - 3.0 Camp Tricams
aliens yellow green possibly more?
slings 24"
20 binners
please let me know where i would be lacking or where i am overduing it this would be greatly appreciated


Partner taino


Sep 17, 2004, 10:54 AM
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In reply to:
taking into acount that i have no ones rack that i can mouch off of or test out listing to all of you rviews on the subject i am thinking about doing this plaese tell me what you think for my situation
BD camalot C4 .75 - 3
metoulious curve nuts full set
Set of .5 - 3.0 Camp Tricams
aliens yellow green possibly more?
slings 24"
20 binners
please let me know where i would be lacking or where i am overduing it this would be greatly appreciated

I've said this in other threads, but I'll repeat it here:

Don't go out and buy a bunch of cams. Start off with a full set of nuts and hexes, and perhaps the three or four smallest tricams (pink, red, brown, blue); learn passive gear, first, rather than slamming in a cam.

Also, HERE is a link to some good ideas for a solid Gunks-standard rack.

T


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