Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
new trad climber, desperately seeking help
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Sep 22, 2004, 1:07 AM
Post #1 of 2 (752 views)

Registered: Oct 7, 2003
Posts: 123

new trad climber, desperately seeking help
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HELP!! I am just starting to trad climb BUT my main problem is that I find it really hard to find the piece I need from the sling. How do you place the gear on the sling?

Also, how many pieces do you have on each carab? I probably have too many, as when I place, say a hex, and have to remove that hex from the bunch, I half risk the rest falling out. But if I put less pieces on each carab, wonít I just increase the weight and confusion?
My sling (singing rock) has loops stitched onto the shoulder pad, but I didnít use these as I thought that by doing so, 1. I wouldnít really be able to see them, and 2. the slings (which I had from shoulder to waist in the opposite direction of the ďgear slingĒ would get in the way.. should I have clipped some of the gear into those?

I put all the protection pieces on the sling, and the extenders (or quick draws), locking carab and belay device on my harness. It canít be because I have too much gear.. I only have about 10 nuts, 10 hexes and 6 or 7 cams. I then carried a few slings and a short bit of rope to set up anchor on top.
Am I doing something wrong? or is it simply a matter of getting used to it?


Sep 22, 2004, 3:09 AM
Post #2 of 2 (752 views)

Registered: Sep 10, 2004
Posts: 142

Re: new trad climber, desperately seeking help [In reply to]
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I only have about 10 nuts, 10 hexes and 6 or 7 cams.

Too much gear!....that's heaps for a beginner. I had similar problems as a beginner so i guess i just racked small nut on one biner and large ones on another. Then I'd rack small hex's on one biner and again large ones on another. With the cams as they are often your first choice (due to their ease of placement) you may want them on individual biners unless you have a few micros which can go together.

On your sling put the wires first then the cams then the hexes. Not sure about your sling but if it has loops you should use these (is it the Metolius) as they help keep different gear separate. You may also want to keep wires on the front loop on your harness (remember front loops for gear and back loops for screwgates, ATC, cordalettes etc). As for keeping multiple stuff on one biner you get used to hanging on to it! plus if you're not sure about the size it means you can try a few pieces without sticking it back on the rack. Once the pice is in then wack a long/short draw on it or if it is already slung then grab a spare biner (keep about 5 or 6 of these clipped into each other on a loop of your harness).

Over time you might find it easier to migrate more gear to your harness depending on the style you're climbing in (eg switching leads etc) and in the process lose the hexes. If you want to cut down on the weight then i think you could at least drop from 10 down to 5 depending on the climb. You could keep these around your neck and everything else (except long slings) on your harness.

hope this helps and good luck

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