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retired
Sep 23, 2004, 2:50 PM
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I find nuts that have been subjected to falls or aid climbing very difficult to remove without a nut tool and hammer. I don't like the extra weight of a hammer and was wondering if anyone here had expierence with the nutbuster? It seeems like a good idea but thought I'd pick a few brains before buying one...oh and anyone know where to find one? thanks.
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brianinslc
Sep 23, 2004, 2:58 PM
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In reply to: I find nuts that have been subjected to falls or aid climbing very difficult to remove without a nut tool and hammer. I don't like the extra weight of a hammer and was wondering if anyone here had expierence with the nutbuster? It seeems like a good idea but thought I'd pick a few brains before buying one...oh and anyone know where to find one? thanks.
I think they work pretty well...especially for following a free lead. For aid, I much prefer a lightweight hammer and nut tool. Easier to tap tap with precision.
Neat trick I saw someone do...is find an old hex and drill a slot through it, and slide a standard nut tool through the slot. Can't remember how they pinned it, but, seemed to work pretty well. Could always be used as pro, too...
I'll bet Pika still has the nutbuster. You might check their website.
http://www.pikamtn.com/1boltinggear.html
Didn't Lowe make one called a "chock talker" as well?
-Brian in SLC
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tico
Sep 23, 2004, 3:21 PM
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In reply to: Neat trick I saw someone do...is find an old hex and drill a slot through it, and slide a standard nut tool through the slot. Can't remember how they pinned it, but, seemed to work pretty well. Could always be used as pro, too... -Brian in SLC
Forrest Mountaineering used to make these things. I've got one, they're lighter than the nutbuster, and since the nut tool is much longer than standard, it works okay as a nut-removing hammer (can't head with it though).
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lambone
Sep 23, 2004, 3:51 PM
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you should allways place heads using a chisel, not the hammer. Otherwise you're gunna smash up the rock all around the head placement.
When not carrying a hammer I use a #11 hex.
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grayhghost
Sep 23, 2004, 6:02 PM
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The nutbuster payed for itself in 2 weeks
just from the booty my friend and I recovered.
We were also able to drill an emergency bolt
with it. It is a fantastic tool for those of
us who don't really carry hexes anymore
because they went out of style a decade before
we were born.
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lambone
Sep 23, 2004, 6:33 PM
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whoa really? I used my hexs all the time to suplement my single set of cams up through the mid 90's. I still use them alot on easy alpine stuff where cams are overkill, and/or to build anchors with inorder to save cams for the leader.
sorry to get off topic, but Hexes rock!
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climbx
Sep 27, 2004, 3:21 PM
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In reply to: you should allways place heads using a chisel
What is placing a head ? U talking about placing bolts? Sorry I am a newbie trying to learn aid.
Thanks.
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epic_ed
Sep 28, 2004, 3:30 AM
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I have one and love it for aid. It's too heavy to bring along for any other climbs, IMO.
Ed
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retired
Sep 28, 2004, 11:55 PM
Post #10 of 16
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thanks for all the input, just ordered one.
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megableem
Sep 29, 2004, 12:49 AM
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megableem
Sep 29, 2004, 12:49 AM
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I've never quite understood the nutbuster. It's a hammer and a nut tool, but how are you going to use it to hammer out a nut? Seems like you'll need a second tool. Plus at 8 ounces, it isn't exactly lightweight.
For clean aid, I use an 8 ounce ball peen hammer and a standard nut tool.
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glockaroo
Sep 29, 2004, 3:03 PM
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In reply to: ...For clean aid, I use an 8 ounce ball peen hammer and a standard nut tool. For free, I just accept that fact that every once in a long while a nut gets stuck.
Same here, mega. I have a lightweight 6 or 8oz ball peen hammer whose sole job in life is to be used on clean aid routes. It has a nifty sling, clip-in loop, everything. Combined w/ the regular nut tool, it works just fine. On free routes only the nut tool is carried, and since I don't fall on free climbs very often I'm willing to risk fixing a wire or two to avoid carrying another 8oz of weight.
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holdplease2
Sep 29, 2004, 4:54 PM
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I have bootied many fixed nuts and some sweet fixed cams with my Pika Nutbuster. It paid for itself in the first 15 climbs I climbed, not including the .75 camalot which I freed in the first week...
It also saved me plenty of time in terms of cleaning clean aid placements.
However, I dropped it.
Then I replaced it with a "tack hammer" from Home Depot for about $7. Though this doesn't double as a nut tool, it does have a slot in the end of the head where I can thread nylon and use it as a funkness if necessary. Its a little more bulky. And hey, if you drop your nut tool, just borrow your partners for the rest of the climb...it will save you about $23!
Before you drop coin on the actual nut buster, sift through your garage, or a neighbor's garage if you don't have one, and find a little hammer. Carry it with you and see if its worth the trouble.
-Kate.
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megableem
Sep 29, 2004, 6:08 PM
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ghiz
Oct 25, 2004, 6:44 PM
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Review:
http://www.climberonline.com/COLreviews/rev092700.shtml
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