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skateman
Sep 27, 2004, 6:56 PM
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Hi All,
I usually refrain from judgeing others...but! I think it was gumby day yesterday at the local crag (somewhere in Mass.) It is a fairly small area, so I was a little suprised that some climbers had trundled softball sized rocks from above in three separate instances. I also witnessed a guy falling on his gear and having his pro pop. Not to mention, I tried to warn someone they were doing something dangerous (in a nice way, of course), they looked at me as if I had three heads. People were setting up TR's and monopolizing routes by not letting others climb on thier rope even though they were on another climb!
Needless to say, I couldn't wait to get home to the safety and sanity of my couch!
S-man
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jakedatc
Sep 27, 2004, 7:00 PM
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yikes skate.. glad you got away safe ..
sucks you tried to help someone and they didnt recieve it very well..
i have my ideas as to where it was but as i was safe in the boulders of NH i can only guess..
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misfit4lf
Sep 27, 2004, 7:10 PM
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I noticed one thing in your post...you said they were "monopolizing routes by not letting others climb on thier rope even though they were on another climb! "
You should never expect anyone to let you use their rope. That is slightly rude. You might have gotten another answer if you asked if you could move theirs aside and lead through.
I usually don't have a problem if someone wants to take a run on the lines we set, but if they expect us to let them that is a bit arrogant.
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skateman
Sep 27, 2004, 7:18 PM
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Misfit, I agree, that would be slightly rude.
However, I was not the person that asked. Not even sure if my old ears got the full story. These folks were doing thier best to tie up classics. In my opinion, they rated high on the clueless scale after climbing on adjacent routes for an hour or so. Not the kind of people I would choose to have as a climbing partner.
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crimpandgo
Sep 27, 2004, 7:20 PM
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Quote:
It is a fairly small area, so I was a little suprised that some climbers had trundled softball sized rocks from above in three separate instances.
Response:
Hmm. I question whether anyone should be climbing in the area until the loose debris is cleaned up. Experts as well as gumbies can break loose rock free causing dangers for belayers below.
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jakedatc
Sep 27, 2004, 7:21 PM
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in mass at most TR crags it has been my experience that most people have no problem putting up TR's and then just switching among the ropes.. mostly its a pain in the butt to go up and make another TR (usually involving trees or a trees/gear combination)
also this allows the other people to get on the routes you put up also and it's all quite friendly...
larger places outside mass i see your viewpoint.. gunks, rumney, cathedral etc there is no reason to share your rope.. and shouldnt be expected to but there usually isnt the issue of it being up while you're somewhere else either
Crimp.. i'd guess it was rocks on the top outs of routes.. not actually on the routes.. and trundeling to me means throwing them down.. not accidently knocking them loose...
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misfit4lf
Sep 27, 2004, 7:23 PM
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I can agree their are those clueless people who will not share the cliffs in any way. We had a day iceclimbing where in the area there are 5 possible main lines. We arrived to find a group of 4 had set all the lines and were complete a$$es when asked if we could lead through or set up other lines. As they stated basicly we were here first so deal.
Decided it was better to hike aways to another area then deal with them.
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skateman
Sep 27, 2004, 7:26 PM
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Misfit, once again we agree! Plus I was in a hurry to get out of the falling rock zone!
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crimpandgo
Sep 27, 2004, 7:32 PM
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Quote:
Crimp.. i'd guess it was rocks on the top outs of routes.. not actually on the routes.. and trundeling to me means throwing them down.. not accidently knocking them loose...
Response:
Jake, thanks for clarification. Didn't really catch on the word trundeling. I have been to places where this kind of thing is a problem. I agree is really frustrating. :shock:
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jakedatc
Sep 27, 2004, 7:38 PM
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yea.. noobish folks see loose dirt and rocks at the top and go.. ooo it'll be safer if all this is gone... but more experience shows that throwing it down causes more problems than just leaving it the hell alone
if a hold mid route is loose take some chalk.. put a big X on it and tell folks around you that it's loose.. no need to throw it down near people
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