|
stevematthys
May 21, 2002, 12:24 AM
Post #1 of 14
(4100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2000
Posts: 1248
|
any of you guys ever had your pro zipper out? i have not and hopefully will not experiance that.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
May 21, 2002, 3:38 AM
Post #2 of 14
(4100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
No. Zippering occurs from the bottom up. If your first piece is multi-directional and bomber, your pro will not zip. -Jay
|
|
|
|
|
bulldog
May 21, 2002, 7:55 AM
Post #3 of 14
(4100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 7, 2001
Posts: 103
|
I haven't had it happen. But I have gotten to the top of a route before, looked down, and thought to myself, damn, that's a picture straight outta Long's book on how to end up zipperring out pro. Good thing I didn't fall. Bulldog
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
May 21, 2002, 8:16 AM
Post #4 of 14
(4100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
really i always thought that it occurs when you fall and start pulling pieces from the top to the deck . but i can see it bottom-up. yust didnt thing of it before... CLIMB ON
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
May 21, 2002, 6:37 PM
Post #5 of 14
(4100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
Yeah, it's bottom up. When you fall, the rope pulls the bottom piece up and out. If it is not set to accommodate this, it can pull out, which would then pull the next higher piece up and out, and so on. Consequently, the first piece should be multidirectional -- either a cam or nuts placed in opposition. -Jay
|
|
|
|
|
rocknpowda
May 21, 2002, 7:18 PM
Post #6 of 14
(4100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 16, 2002
Posts: 418
|
It is also very important to have your belayer stand in close to the rock, especially when you can't get a good multidirectional piece first off. My buddy's first lead fall on pro was on the Green A (5.9) in Little Cottonwood Canyon, a finger crack in a tenuous slab protected mostly by small nuts. He had three nuts in but his belayer was hangin' on the sun deck a ways back from the base and when he came off the bottom two pieces popped, leaving him hanging solely on the top piece with nothing in below. When the rope went taught to the belayer the pull on the bottom two nuts was almost straight up and out. It jerked the hell out of the belayer and gave us a good show too! Zippering is more common from the ground up, but it can also happen from the top down if you've put in numerous worthless placements in a row (more likely to happen while aid climbing) and they pop one by one when your carcass goes flying by (remember equalizing two pieces of worthless pro in a sticky situation can make a better piece of worthless pro). I have only top-down zippered one piece one time, unfortunately it was the only piece I had in. . .good thing I was leading the second pitch and had some room to fly! [ This Message was edited by: rocknpowda on 2002-05-21 12:23 ]
|
|
|
|
|
talons05
May 21, 2002, 7:41 PM
Post #7 of 14
(4100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 23, 2001
Posts: 1435
|
That's correct. Most often,"zippering" refers to a fall causing the bottom piece (if not omnidirectional) to pull out, allowing upward or otherwise non-shearing force to apply to the other pieces in the safety system. Since these pieces were placed to hold a DOWNWARD force, they stand a greater chance of coming out. It can also happen from the top down, when piece after piece blows out. Usually this is the result of bad placement, bad rock, or both. AW
|
|
|
|
|
findaway
May 21, 2002, 8:42 PM
Post #8 of 14
(4100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 7, 2002
Posts: 61
|
I'm no trad climber so this is definitly not my department, but I think this might help you. www.climbing.com/Pages/Techtip_pages/213/techtip213_trad.html
|
|
|
|
|
crazywacky
May 21, 2002, 9:05 PM
Post #9 of 14
(4100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 31, 2002
Posts: 409
|
Nice link. And a friend of mine back in the day was in Yosimite when he had about 5 pieces in a row blow. But he was doing aid, and the pieces he was using were those little Copperheads, or mashies. And I don't think they would hold a fall anyway. Edit: I should really learn how to spell "friend". [ This Message was edited by: crazywacky on 2002-05-21 14:06 ]
|
|
|
|
|
stevematthys
May 21, 2002, 9:58 PM
Post #10 of 14
(4100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2000
Posts: 1248
|
ok, i know what the zipper effect is, and i know how to place multi-directional pro to stop a zipper. i was just wondering if any of you guys have experienced it?
|
|
|
|
|
redzit
May 23, 2002, 3:01 AM
Post #11 of 14
(4100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2002
Posts: 195
|
no
|
|
|
|
|
krustyklimber
May 23, 2002, 4:59 AM
Post #12 of 14
(4100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 25, 2002
Posts: 1650
|
Yes I have had a zipper going up my pro twice on the same climb, and have had a lead fall aiding pull 8 pieces from the top down, I probably would've puuled more but the ground kept me from pulling the last 2! Jeff
|
|
|
|
|
clam
Jun 2, 2002, 4:18 AM
Post #13 of 14
(4100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2002
Posts: 182
|
No.
|
|
|
|
|
radd
Jun 8, 2002, 2:27 PM
Post #14 of 14
(4100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2002
Posts: 14
|
yeah i zippered some pro once. It was kind of wierd because my fall was almost arrested by the first piece then right at the end while the cord was stretching the bolt blew. Then it was 3 jingy pieces below that(heads and rivets) Then my new favorite piece the black alien caught me. I love that friggin cam now. IF that hadnt stopped me i would have went alot farther. This was an aid climb not a free route. I have never zippered on a free route.
|
|
|
|
|
|