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Valley Walls to do in a day...
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lambone


Sep 29, 2004, 11:09 PM
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Valley Walls to do in a day...
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...or in other words, without a bivi?

I'm thinking easy stuff since I'm pretty new at climbing in one loooong push, and I'm not that fast.

Crowds are a factor, # of pitches, steepness...difficulty of free climbing (i.e. I suck), etc.

Here is my short list so far, any other good ones?

Easiest (non-repeats):
Skull Queen
Lurking Fear

Easiest (Repeats):
Prow
Tangerine Trip

Harder (non-repreats);
Ten Days After
Wet Denim Daydream
Eagles Way

The obvious ones:
Reg Route on HD
The Nose
and Salathe...are on the long list for when I can spend about a month in the Valley free climbing first. I am thinking quick three day weekend off the couch sorta deals.

Any other suggestions? Thanks


addiroids


Sep 30, 2004, 12:09 AM
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Re: Valley Walls to do in a day... [In reply to]
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I would put Wet Denim Daydream on the non-repeat list. My partner and I just did it in 15 hours on route 2 weekends ago. Finished around 9pm, including doing the last pitch (the roof) in the dark. If you think you could repeat TT in a day, you for sure could onsight WDD in a day. I would bring some thin gear to medium arrows though just in case some is missing TT took us 2 days of 20 hours of climbing with 2.5 pitches fixed before Friday, and we climbed to and bivied on 4 on Friday night (okay so it was more like 4am on saturday before we slept) then bivied on 9 around midnight (P5 took me 3 hours) then topped out around 2am Sunday night (aka monday morning - kind of missed work - woops). Our goal was a push, but we decided to go slower when we were racking for it.

I would guess Southern Man could go in a day onsight too. I sure hope so, because we will try for that soon. Skull Queen was easy, because the pitches are short and it isn't steep at all. The last pitch was beautiful too. 10c finger tip crack rounding up into a 5.7 finger crack. Beautiful if you aren't short fixing at night, in boots, that is.

We were also going to try for TDA in a push, but damn there sure is a lot of C2-3 on that route. I just didn't feel comfortable trying that in a weekend - missed enough work already. Look up Mid-East Crisis - a ton of C1 with only 1 bit of C4 at the top. If you are okay with that (I would nail on C4 though).

TRADitionally yours,

Cali Dirtbag


lambone


Sep 30, 2004, 8:21 AM
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Cool, thanks for that info, exactly the type of stuff I am looking for.

We scratched our way up the West Face of LT last weekend, without a bivi....my partner was a rookie but turned out to be very solid and drivin, so we were slow but motivated and had fun.

Looks like Skull Queen might be a good one to shoot for next time. More pitches, but like you say they are shorter.

We also have to tack an 8 hour drive from oregon on each end of the trip. So Maybe Skull Queen on a 2 day weekend, and something like Lurking Fear on a 3 day weekend which would allow us to get some sleep before and after driving.

I'm really exited about the idea of climbing walls over a weekend now....in the past it has allways been a once or twice a year big vacation type thing.

Any other recomendations? pmyche, Ammon?

gracias


lambone


Sep 30, 2004, 10:21 AM
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Re: Valley Walls to do in a day... [In reply to]
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In reply to:
How come Zodiac's not on your repeat list?

haha...yeah good question.

I was talking to Ammon and he said it hasn't been succesully repeated yet, although several parties have tried.

It's probly not that much harder...or dangerous...I guess. But I'm assuming it will take longer. Still, that one that would be a 3-peat for me.

Something on the Falls Wall would be super cool, what is the mellowest aid route up there?


lambone


Sep 30, 2004, 4:37 PM
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yeah, I sorta meant the Yosemite "Falls Wall"

something appealing about a nice short approach and trail down from the top....call me a wuss

I remmeber climbing Lost Arrow when i was 16 and thinking that climbing up next to Yosemite Falls was pretty much the coolest thing ever.


bigwalling


Sep 30, 2004, 5:00 PM
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Re: Valley Walls to do in a day... [In reply to]
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I've been told that most the easier routes on the right side of the falls wall kinda suck. Bad rock or something.

Most moderate route? It's so Aweful... or not.

I think the old Lost Arrow Direct route is probably the easiest, think it has new hardware too. I'm sure someone on ST.com has done it. Dante's has been done in a push. That Miscreant Wall might be moderate.


flamer


Oct 2, 2004, 7:59 PM
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Re: Valley Walls to do in a day... [In reply to]
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I just did Skull Queen in a push. As said before it's pretty casual There is one pitch that's totally C2+, a couple of C2- and that's mostly because it's in your face funkyness not fall potential.
I had too much of some gear, and didn't have some things I would have liked.

Next time I'd only take a sinlge set of cams above .75 camalots....and the #1 HB offset....maybe the smallest cam hook as well...fun route though...i love it when you get to do both free and aid in the same pitch....

I wouldn't do LF IAD simply because I wouldn't want to walk All the way over the top of the El cap and all theb way down the ledge's when I'm worked...maybe if I was fast enough to do it without being worked!!!

go to Zion bro!! That's the land of fast wall option's!!

josh


justsendingits


Oct 3, 2004, 4:42 PM
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Liberty Cap is a good one to do in a push, it has been re bolted!!!

You can get water at Nevada falls.


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