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adrianhill
May 21, 2002, 9:11 PM
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I'm thinking about climbing Prodigal Sun in a couple of weeks' time, and have a couple of questions:
* Are there any bivy options (eg. the ledge at the top of pitch 3) where a portaledge is not required? How big is the ledge at the top of pitch 3?
* What time does the sun leave the face at this time of year?
Thanks for any help,
Adrian
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tylerphillips
May 21, 2002, 10:50 PM
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I soloed this route last month. But if you are fast I highly recommend the top of the wrinkles pitch. Nice small foot ledge for setting up the porta. But if you have no portaledge the ledge on top of pitch 3 could be an option if your into a piss smell that would curl even your stinky partners toenails. And oh yeah the curse of the "new" 50 classics says you need lowe balls. Do this route and every other clean route in zion a favor and leave those nut placement blowing pieces of s--- in the car. The face sees morning sun until around 11:00 or 12:00, (bring a bigass straw hat, no joke they rule).If you have any other questions You can Private message me.
[ This Message was edited by: tylerphillips on 2002-05-21 15:52 ]
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nailzz
May 21, 2002, 10:54 PM
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Check dis out, from:
http://www.nps.gov/zion/pphtml/contacts.html
HOME | TRAVEL BASICS | CAMPING |LODGING |ACTIVITIES | FEES/PERMITS
email
ZION_park_information@nps.gov
*If you would like a Zion National Park information
packet mailed to you, please include your name and
physical mailing address.
write to
Zion National Park
SR 9
Springdale, UT 84767-1099
fax
435-772-3426
phone
Visitor Information
(435)772-3256
Rangers always got the best beta!
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hollyclimber
Jun 5, 2002, 4:15 PM
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I did this route last month. I wouldn't recommend bivying on P3-its plenty long for one but is not very deep. There is no really good reason to do so either...you can fix to the ground from P3 with two ropes easily, so if you can't do the route in a day (I didn't) then fix one pitch above P3 and rap. Drop your first rope to the base and continue on with your other two ropes.
We are not fast and we did it like this...
DAY ONE, started fixing at 3 pm or so and fixed to P3 with 2 ropes in about 2.5 hours. We had light and a rope to fix another pitch but we didn't feel like it. Left all our stuff at P3 and rapped.
DAY TWO started jugging around 10 am (stupid but we were feeling lazy that morning) and topped out around 10:30 at the last aid pitch.
I highly recommend NOT HAULING on this route as the last free chimney pitch would suck with Buddy and Red Buddy (aka pig and ledge).
Our rack...
well, my topo is at home, but as best I remember...
One set BD offset nuts (didn't use much?)
One set of nuts with doubles at #9 and #10 (my favorites)
two each of metolius tcus up to orange, except we had one yellow alien and one green alien instead of doubles in those sizes.
two red aliens (aliens were key for me on this route)
two each .75 to #2 BD cams
one #3
two hooks, one cam hook. Hooks are critical on P5.
Good luck, PM me if you need more info, and I should have a TR coming soon.
Holly
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hollyclimber
Jun 5, 2002, 4:19 PM
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Also, the route was never really that hot, and I think the sun leaves at around one pm. You only get hot between 11 and one though, so its not too bad.
btw the route name is Prodigal Son
Don't be too worried about topping out in the dark because the last pitch is almost entirely fixed.
Holly
[ This Message was edited by: hollyclimber on 2002-06-05 09:20 ]
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feelio
Jun 5, 2002, 4:38 PM
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Do the route and yourself a favor and blast it in a day. Fix the first few and then just go for it. this route is getting a thrashing by all the peopel hauling a grade 7's worth amount of s--- up their "first" wall. don't believe me? look at the nice white line that goes all the way up from the bags draging. also I agree, leave the Lowe balls, grab all the offest nuts/aliens (peanuts rule this route) you can, and go! And yeah, top of three is an outhouse, as most zion routes are, as the piss just soaks into the sand stone, and NEVER washes out. have fun!!
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feelio
Jun 5, 2002, 4:55 PM
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Oh, and yes hauling that exit chimney would BLOW, not to mention shower a shitload of rocks down on any parties below you.
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wigglestick
Jun 5, 2002, 5:15 PM
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Ditto what feelio said. Blast it in a day. Hauling that last chimney/gully section would suck so bad and is extremely dangerous for the parties below you. I know I almost got creamed by a television sized boulder on Prodigal. If you commit to light and fast you will blow right by everybody putzing around with portaledges and all the other crap they haul up there. Fix a few pitches if you think you should or because you can't get an alpine start with the shuttle bus system. And don't stress out about topping out in the dark the descent is as easy as they come in Zion.
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feelio
Jun 5, 2002, 5:26 PM
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yeah, the descent is cake, I jugged the last real pitch, the chimney and made the chains descent with no light, on a moonless night. Although I kept stumbling on those water bars on walters wiggles.
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spike
Jun 5, 2002, 5:52 PM
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Did Prodigal Sun over Memorial Day Holiday.
The climb goes into the shade around 1:00pm.
The top of Pitch 3 is the only place to bivy without a portaledge. I would bivy at top of P3 and fix up to P4 (Note: about 2/3rds the way up P4 you will find a belay out on the face, don't stop at this belay, the really belay is about 40' up in the blocky section, you can see a bolt on a left facing block). That leaves only 4 aid pitches and the 3rd class section P9 for the next day. P9 isn't fun if you carry to much gear. Sandy and loose --- rocks/boulders ready to slide off. I would add a brown tri-cam to your gear list, I think it is the 1.5 size . . . it works great in a couple pod shaped blown out piton scars. Also a single wire cinch rivit hanger for the button head at the start of P4. I will be adding my trip report to the route data base in a couple days.
Richard / SPIKE
[ This Message was edited by: spike on 2002-06-05 10:54 ]
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feelio
Jun 5, 2002, 6:01 PM
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Nice job on the ascent spike. Did you get to lead the arch crack? next time you'll be ready to fire it in a day!!!!!
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spike
Jun 5, 2002, 6:11 PM
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Registered: Dec 3, 2001
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Thanks -- I lead P1, 2/3rds of P4, P5, P7 and P9 (3 times, carrying gear out on my back). Scott D. lead Arch Crack P6.
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funk29
Dec 5, 2002, 3:54 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2000
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boy,it seems the beta for this route is endless. Every one wants to share. I was wondering if any one had beta for, "The Deerslayer IV 5.10 c1"...
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flamer
Dec 5, 2002, 5:04 PM
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Hey couple of notes.
You do not need any hooks to do Prodigal! Just top step! Also the red alien and the orange tcu are pretty much the same size. You don't need 4 of that size. you don't need cam hooks...And prabably shouldn't use them as they can damage soft sandstone. Take 2 standard sets of nuts.(When did BD start making offsets?) And 1 set of HB offsets (micros). Free as much as you can there is moderate free climbing on the first 3 pitchs. The first 3 can be done as 2.
Keep in mind the less you carry the faster you move!
Try doing it like this-
You and your partner each take a camelback(70oz).stuff a couple powerbars and gu in your pockets.
Rack:2 sets nuts.
1 set HB offsets(micros)
2 sets cams to #1 camalot-1ea. #2.
2 ropes-1 lead line and a thin bail line
Wear comfy free shoes on the route. FIRE!
Starting to ramble so unless you have ?'s I'll just leave it at that.
josh
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jakewolf
Feb 16, 2004, 7:41 PM
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Registered: Apr 8, 2002
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Don't leave home without the red tcu. The Big one(same as .75 camalot) it was place on every pitch several times when I did the route in 2003.
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