|
addrock
Sep 30, 2004, 11:12 PM
Post #1 of 6
(1209 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 15, 2004
Posts: 20
|
moving to medford. is there any good climbing/bouldering in or around town?
|
|
|
|
|
lambone
Sep 30, 2004, 11:29 PM
Post #2 of 6
(1209 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1399
|
addrock,
I live in Ashland and work in Medford. There are a handfull of climbing areas within anout 1hr-1.5hrs from town. Some sport climbing, and some old school trad. A bouldering area in Ashland that is ok.
It's not really a climbing hot spot...but there is some. I did a weekend trip to Yosemite last weekend to climb a wall and was back at work by Monday morning...so it is doable.
I need a solid partner in the area. Send me a pm, when are you going to be here?
I'm relatively new here and hav't done alot of climbing here yet, so we can check new stuff out here together. There is a guide book called Southern Oregon Rock Climbing
And a local website although I can't remmeber the address, run a google search on Southern Oregon and Rock Climbing and you'll get it.
Matt
|
|
|
|
|
coldclimb
Sep 30, 2004, 11:48 PM
Post #3 of 6
(1209 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
|
coldclimb moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
|
|
|
|
|
dylanransom
Oct 1, 2004, 4:52 AM
Post #4 of 6
(1209 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2004
Posts: 39
|
hey, it's your lucky day....I lived and climbed in Medford area for 15 years before joining the Air Force. Here's pretty much everything I know about local area and extended area climbing (You need to ask around for all directions because I don't trust the memory banks):
Ashland:
Ask at the Outdoor Store downtown in Ashland for directions to some nice granite boulders that are a 5 minute drive and ten minute hike from downtown. I spent a couple years rummaging around there, and turned up lots of fun (roughly 50 problems up to V5). Don't expect too much quantity or quality wise, but I promise you'll have fun (and maybe send some projects if you climb above V5). Boulders go by several names: Hitt Rd. Boulders and Acid Castles are the most common.
Emmigrant Lake: South of Ashland is some sandstone at the NW corner of the lake. Clip-ups from 5.easy to 5.12, short but entertaining. At the NE corner of the lake are some seasonally wet/dry boulders that contain some fun, the best route being a 20+ foot tall diagonal route on chipped Jugs with an exciting mantle (don't freak about the chipped stuff there- the "rock" is mud)
Pilot Rock: Adventure trad + a couple bolted routes on the Oregon/Cali border. BRING A HELMET (more than one death from rockfall, tho not sure if climbers were involved)
Mt. Ashland: I guess there's some stuff at the very summit, and a few decent boulders off the road before reaching the ski area...not great unless you're desparate for something new
Greeensprings: Columnar basalt, sport/trad, usually under 60 feet high, but many worthy routes here from 5.6 to 5.12- where most in So. Oregon learn to climb. Many great memories (near death gumby experiences, bolt wars, but mostly just super fun climbing)
Rattlesnake: Sport from 5.10 (the easier routes are not worth mentioning) to 5.13, less than an hour's drive north of Medford. Excellent route preparation, and the best Clip-ups South of Smith Rock
Rabbit Ears: Adventure trad/ limited sport, about 1.5 hrs north of medford, on highly pocketed basalt. The ears themselves have routes from 5.6 to 5.11, and the lower apron has mostly bolted (old bolts and runouts common) routes up to 5.11. Less than 25 routes total between the ears and the apron. I've put up several routes here, and there is definitely potential for many moderate slabs, and even a free-standing 40-foot boulder that could contain NASTY hard and steep shallow pocket pulling. Limited bouldering in the area is worth checking out.
Other stuff north of here (Roseburg area??) fairly extensive, but fairly far from Medford. Sport/Trad methinks
Smith Rock: 3.5 hrs north.....good God this place rocks! Go there.
Castle Crags: 2 hrs drive south plus 2 hr hike in. Worth a couple trips, due to some AMAZING (my opinion- your mileage may vary) adventure climbing on unusual granite. Big new route potential, one breathtaking 5.6++R face climb (6 pitches), a couple classics around 5.9, and several great, long 5.10s.
Northern Cali Coast: Just south of Crescent City, total 2 hr drive to possibly best beach bouldering in the nation, Lost Rocks. No guidebook needed, tons of beautiful problems that always change due to sand washing in and out.
Southern Oregon Coast: North end of Brookings, total 2 hr. drive. If you are in the area, check out Harris Beach State Park, and find FUN FUN FUN bouldering in a tight cluster of huge boulders. BEST V1 ever is located here- my favorite all-time boulder problem.
Hope these get you excited....believe me Medford area can keep you very busy and get you very strong.
Any questions can be sent to Mmaransom@wmconnect.com
HAPPY CLIMBING!!
Dylan Ransom
|
|
|
|
|
addrock
Oct 5, 2004, 11:48 PM
Post #5 of 6
(1209 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 15, 2004
Posts: 20
|
thanx for the input/ i'm really looking forward to moving there!
|
|
|
|
|
doktor_g
Oct 5, 2004, 11:57 PM
Post #6 of 6
(1209 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 14, 2003
Posts: 152
|
Addrock,
Hell yeah. Another transplant. I moved to Klamath Falls (a town about 70 miles east of you) last year. There's climbing all over southern oregon that few people know about. In addition to dylanransom's stuff there's some rock N of my town and Castle Crags is alot of alpine funness!!! From medford you'll be withing a few minutes drive of most of S. OR rock. Yosemite is about 8-10 hours south Smith is I dunno how far.
Oops caught by the boss... gotta go,
Grover
|
|
|
|
|
|
