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Rock or plastic?
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adam


Jul 27, 2004, 8:06 AM
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bouldereldo wrote:
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I find these river/glacial polished Fountain Formation stones,use a hammer drill to drill screw holes, and a grinder to grind the backs flat. This is the same stone as Eldorado canyon, Flagstaff, flatirons, etc....
I'm trying to build a wall on a budget using real rock holds. I just broke down and bought myself a hammer drill. I was using my regular drill on some hard rock, 2 hours later and I'm 3/4 the way through my first hold :roll:

Most of the rock I have right now has a fairly flat side, but I was wondering if I should consider buying a grinder, what kind do you use?

Thanks,

Adam


bouldereldo


Jul 27, 2004, 3:12 PM
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I trust that the hammer drill has solved your drilling problem. Keep the bit cool and don't use constant pressure. Some stone doesn't drill well. As far as grinding the backs, I use a 3.5" angle grinder w/ a diamond wheel.

I hope that helps.


adam


Sep 1, 2004, 10:50 PM
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The hammer drill helped some what, but I bought a super cheap one off of eBay, I'm wondering if I should try getting a beefer hammer drill to power through the stone a little faster. The drill I have seems to work OK with small holds that I'm attaching using deck screws, but I what I really want to do is make bolt on hold similar to those made by Petrogrips.

I wish I knew what sort of equipment they used to drill their holds. I was thinking that a drill press with some sort of hammer action would work well [don't even know if these exist], or perhaps even a regular drill press. I don't mind investing in some tools to make the holds, just don't want to spend my budget on the wrong tools and end up wishing I just bought some Petrogrips instead. If I was just interested in a dozen or so holds I wouldn't bother trying to make them myself, but I need 80 or so to outfit my wall, just to start.

What kind of hammer drill are you using? Here's the cheapo one I bought http://cgi.ebay.com/...ageName=STRK:MEWA:IT Beware, you get what you pay for :)


jamaica


Sep 1, 2004, 10:55 PM
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ROCK

Plastic is only for the winter and rainy days

Jamaica 8^)


petsfed


Sep 1, 2004, 11:01 PM
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In reply to:
...You can easily chock up 1000 feet of climbing in a few hours, and you can make the climbs as diverse as your imagination. If you want to be able to climb those difficult classics at your local crag...

So why does my stemming suck so much on the 1000 foot classics at my local crag?

Given the choice between climbing at Vedauwoo, Roger's Canyon, the Snowy Range, or the gym, I have difficulty picking what kind of rock I want to pull on. But not between rock and plastic. Its a backup plan, a training device, and a distraction, but little more.


10ftdrp


Sep 2, 2004, 12:04 AM
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why is this topic still going? :roll:


Partner coldclimb


Sep 2, 2004, 12:13 AM
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In reply to:
why is this topic still going? :roll:

Why is this a topic??? :lol: It was answered in the second post.

In reply to:
There is no comparison.


10ftdrp


Sep 2, 2004, 12:19 AM
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there isnt any comparison rock is better and thats the long and short of it i have no clue why this is STILL going... i would think it would have died after the first page


adam


Sep 2, 2004, 12:25 AM
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I agree rock is superior to plastic hands down, which is way I'm tying to figure out the best/cheapest way to outfit my home wall with home built rock holds. Do you guys think I should be starting a new thread for this?


johnson6102002


Sep 2, 2004, 1:15 AM
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rock is way better but the gym is wear you can learn and get better in a safer environment I love climbing on my home wall just bc its in my basement and i dont have to worry about gas because im broke. I like to do both but plastic is just training


wyattwyattwyatt


Sep 2, 2004, 3:25 PM
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i doubt there is really anyone who PREFERS plastic....but a lot of u seem to be trashing plastic, which i dont understand. climbing in gyms is fun. true, u're not outside, you're not as high up, and the holds are all painted in bright colors, but its still a lot of fun.

i think whoever it was made a good point when he said that maybe those who cant stand gyms really dont like climbing as much as those who enjoy both indoors and out. i mean, if u can only be induced to climb by a spectacular location, sunny day, and company of your choice, maybe its these other factors that are more important to you than climbing (and theres absolutely nothing wrong with that).

but who truly enjoys climbing (in a pure sense) more, someone who will only do it in a very specific ideal situation or someone who will climb anything anywhere, plastic, buildings, u name it?


chrisparedes


Sep 2, 2004, 10:59 PM
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There is nothing better than climbing outside and touching real rock. No contest at all. I do not like climbing indoors. But sometimes its all you have and no matter what you gotta get your climb on. That's the only thing plastic is good for in my opinion.


Partner drrock


Sep 2, 2004, 11:17 PM
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edit


Partner tattooed_climber


Sep 2, 2004, 11:29 PM
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In reply to:
plastic sucks. its nothing but a winter training tool.

totally with euroford....as well, i built a woody cus if bloody well rains here too much to climb in squamish so times...


snowrocker


Sep 3, 2004, 12:16 AM
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Rock


Partner jammer


Sep 3, 2004, 3:45 PM
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I enjoy both. If I had to choose one, then it would be rock. Plastic has a way of not expelling the heat from your hands as rock does, but it has it's place in "training". If it were not for the gyms in NH, then the winters would be too damn long and cold, that is, if one does not ice climb.


labrat0065


Oct 6, 2004, 2:20 AM
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it may be because i live in ohio, but even in amm my travels to the carolinas i love bouldering indors and out, but the real challenge can be on plastic. where its all about how hard can you push yourself, just like outdoors, but in a much more pumped enviroment, the waethers always nice, its always a great place to hang, and it gets REAL pumpy.


alberta_climberboy


Oct 6, 2004, 2:49 AM
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Rock. Rock. Rock. Only plastic in winter! Which is 8 months here.


rckfreek


Oct 6, 2004, 3:54 AM
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Is this a real question? :roll: ..........oh it is............rock every time :lol:

Climb Hard

Rock Freek


feanor007


Oct 6, 2004, 4:16 AM
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i got into climbing because i liked to be out side and was attracked to beautiful lines on beautiful rock. the gym does not have my primary motivator for climbing, beauty. once i realized that many aestetic lines are difficult, the gym became nesacarry to fullfill my outdoors dreams. i have learned to appriciate aspects of gym climbing, but i do not love it. climbing outside is not only physical, it is spiritual, God, the rock and me. (and my belayer)


theishofoz


Oct 6, 2004, 4:46 AM
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IS IT CALLED ROCK CLIMBING OR IS IT CALLED PLASTIC CLIMBING?? seriously, did you need to ask?


bler


Oct 6, 2004, 6:05 AM
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how come they have some climbing competitions ON PLASTIC ??

yah, plastic isn't my favorite thing to climb on, but you can position it for specific moves witch allows you to setup a climb to YOUR liking, or your specific design..

I don't see why people are hating so much on gyms, I'm sure 90% of you climb at least sometime in the gym, so why hate it so much ?

i'm not saying plastic is BETTER then rock, just DIFFERENT


Partner packclimber


Oct 6, 2004, 6:09 AM
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i don't know what kind of gyms you all have been to but enterprise makes a wall that has some natural rock type features. I do work at a gym. But when i's all said and done i prefer the outdoors because you always can do it your way without all the gym rats telling you how to do the route that you just put up. Trust me it has happened and just because they couldn't do it they said it couldn't be done.

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