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kalcario
Oct 7, 2004, 1:49 AM
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9 years after the first 14a onsight by Elie Chevieux in 1995, Yuji Hirayama has pushed the world onsight standard up another notch at the tufa-laced cave of Baltzola in the Basque region of Spain. Amazing when you consider that Yuji has not only been climbing at the highest level for close to 20 years, but he has also freed El Cap several times, including the Salathe in a day, and holds the speed record for the Nose... From 8a.nu:
"Yestarday 5th October, I did White Zombi 8c onsight in Baltzola! It was very hard to wait for good conditions. I waited three days. Finally I did my biggest goal in this year and I am very happy to make new record of onsighting.
I climb one more day in Spain and tommorrow I will move to
France. I will try more like 9a's and other onsights. Anyway I am very happy and I will keep trying more challanges to come."
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socalbolter
Oct 7, 2004, 1:57 AM
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impressive!
hats off to yuji !
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bandidopeco
Oct 7, 2004, 2:11 AM
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and in a related matter i set my new onsite record at 11a, whoopeeee
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socalbolter
Oct 7, 2004, 2:42 AM
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congrats to bandido as well !
time to pick that magic 11b and go for it.
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rockclimbergabor
Oct 7, 2004, 3:00 AM
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yea im still tryin to get my first 13a onsight... but great job to Yuji n keep sendin hard
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overlord
Oct 7, 2004, 7:37 AM
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:shock: :shock: :shock:
now, thats something.
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drrock
Oct 7, 2004, 11:07 AM
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Congrats bandido! I love hearing about and trying onsights. The best way to climb. :)
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maxdacat
Oct 7, 2004, 12:39 PM
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yeah but what's he ever done on **insert local choss pile here**
;)
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anykineclimb
Oct 7, 2004, 2:06 PM
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Way to go Yuji!
I was surprised it took so long for someone to "officially" onsite 5.14b
Although when I heard Elie Chevieux had onsited 5.14a I was in total shock with that achievement. I guess its that we get jaded hearing of all these ascents, sorta lose a bit of what it truely means to onsite a blank wall.
:righton:
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fracture
Oct 7, 2004, 2:06 PM
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Didn't Usobiaga onsight a 14a/b or something? I guess this is the first solid 8c onsight?
Anyone know how long he spent on the route?
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moonshine505
Oct 7, 2004, 2:20 PM
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Patxi onsighted B12 which is apparently stiff .14a. He's onsighted 5 .14a's so it seems a .14b OS is well within his grasp if he so chooses. Rock on.
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itakealot
Oct 7, 2004, 2:27 PM
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3 cheers for Yuji-san
Banzai! Banzai! Banzai!
Erai!
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ron_burgandy
Dec 7, 2004, 8:34 PM
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How bad ass is it to onsight 8c- he gets 10 gold stars in my book
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ikefromla
Dec 7, 2004, 8:45 PM
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i read the title of this thread and said to myself, "yuji." was anyone actually surprised? props.
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wingnut
Dec 14, 2004, 3:10 PM
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Hats off to Yuji! :mrgreen:
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Dec 14, 2004, 3:28 PM
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He's one bad mother. Great spread of him in the Alipinist an issue or two back describing his onsight attempt of El Nino. No doubt the training for that had no minor impact on his ability to flash routes at such a high level.
He goes pretty big for such a little guy, don't he? All 6 feet of me seems small in comparison :D
Way to go, Yuji.
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yanqui
Dec 14, 2004, 7:56 PM
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In reply to: He's one bad mother. Great spread of him in the Alipinist an issue or two back describing his onsight attempt of El Nino. No doubt the training for that had no minor impact on his ability to flash routes at such a high level.
I hope Kalcario reads this. Flashed hard sport after training several years for trad. As reported in the 'Fox News' of climbing magazines. Too funny.
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mtman
Dec 14, 2004, 8:02 PM
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there is a video of it on climbing's website, the vid is called white zombie and you can find it here: http://climbing.com/av/whitezombie/
it is bad ass you should check it out
mtman
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cracklover
Dec 16, 2004, 7:14 PM
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In reply to: there is a video of it on climbing's website, the vid is called white zombie and you can find it here: http://climbing.com/av/whitezombie/ it is bad ass you should check it out mtman
Pretty cool! Anyone know what he's saying at the end?
GO
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leinosaur
Dec 16, 2004, 8:25 PM
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I guess those are permanent draws, eh?
Cool vid.
I dug the Alpinist article. How is that the Fox News of climbing?
Just curious. Please to explain.
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madrodney
Dec 21, 2004, 10:35 AM
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Yuji-this guy kinda be a climbing monster.Anyway,hats off to yuji!!!
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kyhangdog
Dec 21, 2004, 1:08 PM
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Anyone know how old he is?
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yanqui
Dec 21, 2004, 1:38 PM
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In reply to: I guess those are permanent draws, eh? Cool vid. I dug the Alpinist article. How is that the Fox News of climbing? Just curious. Please to explain.
Personally, I like many apects of Alpinist's style better'n the other rags. Especially the (all too short) 'Climbing Life' section.
You'll have to ask Kalcario about that Fox News stuff. But check out the following thread, where once again we find our beleaguered hero adhering to his fundamental dictums:
(1) Open mouth
(2) Insert foot
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...iewtopic.php?t=77480
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alpinerock
Dec 24, 2004, 5:34 PM
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Just out of curioursity, does anybody know how tall his is?
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james_climber
Apr 24, 2006, 12:07 AM
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Im really more impressed by Josune with the first 8b+ onsight , hodrofobia
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