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how do you avoid a massive scary pendulum while cleanin solo
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androids


Oct 9, 2004, 10:54 AM
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how do you avoid a massive scary pendulum while cleanin solo
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im working a project that involves a 70m+ roof. i need advice on how to go about cleanibg this damn thing -solo- . my two best anchors are 45m apart and I DO NOT!! want to take that pendulum!!!! for fear of 1. hitting the wall on my left at warp speed. 2. i dont trust this particular rock that much, too sharp ,too crumbly, too limstoney. 3. i already did it in the other direction involuntarily after every nail, hook , and nut i placed decieded they didnt like me and rallyied together to "off" me. im planing my 2nd assault and any help ,ideas or links would be appreciated.


epic_ed


Oct 9, 2004, 11:40 AM
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Re: how do you avoid a massive scary pendulum while cleanin [In reply to]
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Uh, a 70 METER roof? You sure about that dude? That would be a 210 ft roof, and I'm not aware of any such animal. Enlighten us -- where is it?

As for cleaning it without a pendgy -- easy. Re-aid when cleaning.

Ed


healyje


Oct 9, 2004, 12:48 PM
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Yeah, is that really a roof, a series of progressive roofs, an overhang, or a combination of all three? You sound like you're having a lot of fun to me. Anchors and pro in roofs need to be well considered directionally if you are going to clean them on aid or if you need to go back down the line. Without pictures or being there (where are you and when are you going out next? I'd be happy to come assist.)...


noshoesnoshirt


Oct 9, 2004, 1:22 PM
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Re: how do you avoid a massive scary pendulum while cleanin [In reply to]
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I tried aiding a roof that was probably 150' plus when I was a kid. There's an old limestone quarry/cave a couple of hundred feet long, about 40' tall, with a nasty, wet, chossy, dead horizontal crack running out the length of the sucker from the very back to the cave mouth. The ground was littered with car-sized boulders that had dislodged from the roof at some point. Not a smart thing to aid, but I've never been accused of being too bright.
Anyway, I too took a big 'un while leading - zippered three cams and two pins, took a 35' penji , ended up swinging on a single 3/8" bolt I'd placed as an afterthought at the end of the first 50' or so of climbing (remember the cave is about 40' tall - I could stretch my toes and touch the cave floor).
My solution to the big swing? Aid back to my high (er, long?) point and place another big, beefy 1/2" bolt at the point where my last piece failed. And never get on the dang thing again. (Sort of a moot point since the property was purchased by a non climber-friendly person a while back - (you can still see the bail 'biner in the cave if you can get in)).


androids


Oct 9, 2004, 2:37 PM
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its actually a "cave" the biggest one ive ever seen. i came apon it while hiking in alberta( noT saying where im not finished with it yet) it can actually only be seen when the sun hits it a a particular time of day otherwise it looks like just a big shallow arch. re-aiding is a option but there is some sketchy hooking near the middle that could cause problems. it also takes like 9hours to get to that point. i dont want to have to fix lines.
im actually relitively new to aiding(started in may) so please excuse my ignorrance but if i re-aid dont i risk loosing substantial gear?please explain. im not going back till the spring, as it is crawling with hibernating grizzlys. also one of my friends suggested i use a gri-gri and lower myself . what do yall think?


Partner tgreene


Oct 9, 2004, 3:53 PM
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In reply to:
what do yall think?
If the grizzlys are sleeping, just don't fall on em... they might wake up! :mrgreen:


atg200


Oct 9, 2004, 3:58 PM
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re-aiding is the only way you won't have to leave a bunch of gear - you can clean as you go. if you are doing a bunch of hook moves out a roof(this sounds wierd) you will need to fix something before the hooks and do a lower out by doing a mini rappel.

lowering with a grigri throught pieces works very well the odd traversing or roof move, but it would get really tedious to do out a huge roof. definitely use the grigri as a backup device when you are cleaning though - they can't blow off the rope like a jug has a tendency to do on a long horizontal roof.


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