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Cleaning overhanging rock on solo
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far_east_climber


Oct 13, 2004, 8:15 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2003
Posts: 873

Cleaning overhanging rock on solo
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Could somebody say how this is done? I am guessing there is no defined technique. I am thinking one way to do it would be to down jug the lead line to the bottom anchor and once there just clean as normal.


foolry


Oct 13, 2004, 9:33 PM
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Registered: Apr 4, 2002
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Re: Cleaning overhanging rock on solo [In reply to]
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It sounds like you're making this way more complicated than it needs to be. For an overhanging/traversing pitch, all you need to do is fix your lead line for jugging (don't pull up any of the slack, I'll explain in a minute).
Then, pull the hauline taut (with your favorite hauling method of course), fix it, and rappell on that (make it as taut as you can and still make downward progress with your gri-gri, this will allow you to suck yourself in to the anchor easier (if not, that's what jumars are for, eh) it also allows you to release the pig without shocking your upper anchor, that's a good thing doncha know).
Once you're at the lower anchor, jug your lead line and clean as usual (ALWAYS backup your jumars with a gri-gri AND a Clove hitch every 20-30ft or so, especialy on over hangs/ traverses, Jumars CAN and DO pop off at unexpected times), remember, you left yourself some slack in your lead line. That is for lowerouts if the route is too overhanging/ traversing. What is a lowerout?, uhh, that's kinda hard to explain without a diagram. Someone else can field that one.
Peace, and Happy Soloing
Thomas (aka The Professor)


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