|
curtis
Oct 15, 2004, 2:01 PM
Post #1 of 22
(4834 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 15, 2004
Posts: 5
|
I am fairly new to climbing. I bought a new pair of shoes less than two months ago and the rubber at my toes is already gettting worn out to the point where they need to be resoled...
I climb 3-4 times a week at an indoor gym.
Is there something in my technique that I might be doing wrong? My wife has had her shoes for a month longer and they show very little wear and tear...
|
|
|
|
|
deleted
Deleted
Oct 15, 2004, 2:06 PM
Post #2 of 22
(4827 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
This is typical when you just get into climbing, it's because of sloppy foot work, kicking and scraping at the holds. Focus on putting your foot preciesly on the hold.
|
|
|
|
|
microbdcamalot
Oct 15, 2004, 2:11 PM
Post #3 of 22
(4835 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 30, 2004
Posts: 187
|
your in a gym, dont wear shoes.
|
|
|
|
|
deleted
Deleted
Oct 15, 2004, 2:27 PM
Post #4 of 22
(4827 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
[quote:6e3c05e97b="microbdcamalot"]your in a gym, dont wear shoes.[/quote:6e3c05e97b]
microbdcamalot, stop being a jerk to the newbies. Your in a gym why don't you climb without a harness!
|
|
|
|
|
nthusiastj
Oct 15, 2004, 2:28 PM
Post #5 of 22
(4832 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2002
Posts: 1994
|
I have the same problem right now. My LaSportiva's are just about to wear through. I think that it is due to the type of rubber and technique you use.
|
|
|
|
|
crazygirl
Oct 15, 2004, 2:44 PM
Post #6 of 22
(4834 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2003
Posts: 595
|
to all REAL climbers, its is very important not to wear out the shoes too quickly. not only must you pay attention to your footwork, but you have to wear your shoes efficiently. if you are climbing something easy, say 5.10 or under, don't wear shoes. in fact, you have to take them off everytime the holds are big enough to stand on in your hiking boots. Take them off then belaying, rapelling, and never wear them indoors. When not in use, make sure they are not just lying on the ground, but are placed on a prtective towel. if you do this, your shoes will last longer.
|
|
|
|
|
itakealot
Oct 15, 2004, 3:04 PM
Post #7 of 22
(4833 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 8, 2003
Posts: 382
|
what brand of shoes? According to different magazine equipment editors (R&I) and retailers, mad rocks are notorious for wearing out really quick. Slip ons also have thinner rubber and will wear out quicker, than a boreal ace would.
Footwork has a lot to do with it too. I know this girl whose shoes wore out on the inside of her foot since she was a cronic edger and never used her big toe.
In reply to: to all REAL climbers
Crazygirl, do you think the post is from a troll?
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Oct 15, 2004, 3:09 PM
Post #8 of 22
(4833 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
In reply to: to all REAL climbers, its is very important not to wear out the shoes too quickly. not only must you pay attention to your footwork, but you have to wear your shoes efficiently. if you are climbing something easy, say 5.10 or under, don't wear shoes. in fact, you have to take them off everytime the holds are big enough to stand on in your hiking boots. Take them off then belaying, rapelling, and never wear them indoors. When not in use, make sure they are not just lying on the ground, but are placed on a prtective towel. if you do this, your shoes will last longer.
:lol: Change your name to analgirl! :P :P
Curtis, I haven't seen you climb, so I can't tell you for sure what the problem is, but most beginners I see in the gym "scrape" to footholds. This means that they place their feet against the wall a few inches above the hold and then slide their feet down until they make contact. It's the most efficient way to trash a pair of shoes.
If this is the case with you, then your foot placement needs work.
|
|
|
|
|
curtis
Oct 15, 2004, 3:13 PM
Post #9 of 22
(4834 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 15, 2004
Posts: 5
|
Actually this is the second pair that i am trashing... I bought a pair of madrocks and they wore out in a month, I blamed the manufacturer and returned them to REI for a new pair. (THANK YOU REI!) Bought the montrail zeolot and now, two months later, they are wearing out too....
I figure its gotta be something with the footwork. But with the new pair I have been making a conscious effort not to drag my toes at all on the wall. I think I do have a tendancy to toe holds rather than edging... But I can't see anything obvious with my technique that would make me go through two pairs of shoes in 3 months.
|
|
|
|
|
crazygirl
Oct 15, 2004, 3:17 PM
Post #10 of 22
(4835 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2003
Posts: 595
|
what happened to my post?
|
|
|
|
|
tgreene
Oct 15, 2004, 3:31 PM
Post #11 of 22
(4834 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2003
Posts: 7267
|
Climbing on plastic is hard on shoes, because the plastic is ultra abrassive and acts like sandpaper, that slowly grinds away at the rubber.
|
|
|
|
|
leinosaur
Oct 15, 2004, 3:36 PM
Post #12 of 22
(4834 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 690
|
In reply to: what happened to my post?
that's what I'm wondering too -- looks like several folks' posts were deleted . . . is this part of the new rules? deleting smart alec responses?
As for the shoes - quit scrabblin' around! Look at where you're going to put your foot, then STICK IT!
I know 'cause I scrabbled out my first pair & am making a point of not doing that to my new ones. It does help, though, that the new ones have stealth on 'em - they stick much better than the La Sportivas ever did - I got those on closeout, too, and I think the rubber was "old" before I even bought 'em. At any rate, they were literally crumbling away.
I was also warned to stop climbing in a shoe immediately if it gets holes, if there's any thought of resoling, 'cause if you compromise the leather (or whatever it's made of inside) they won't resole 'em, 'cause it'll just tear up quickly again.
Good luck with the censored advice!
leinosaur
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Oct 15, 2004, 3:36 PM
Post #13 of 22
(4834 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
In reply to: what happened to my post?
Same thing happened to me the other day. If you have your filter set to '0' and somebody gives your post a bad vote, your post has a -1. Since your filter is at 0, you can't see your post anymore!
I went into my profile, and changed my filter to -2, so I can see everything.
P.S. I voted your post up, so hopefully you'll be able to see it again, and maybe even consent to go on a date with me. :P
|
|
|
|
|
crazygirl
Oct 15, 2004, 3:50 PM
Post #14 of 22
(4835 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2003
Posts: 595
|
In reply to: In reply to: what happened to my post? Same thing happened to me the other day. If you have your filter set to '0' and somebody gives your post a bad vote, your post has a -1. Since your filter is at 0, you can't see your post anymore! I went into my profile, and changed my filter to -2, so I can see everything. P.S. I voted your post up, so hopefully you'll be able to see it again, and maybe even consent to go on a date with me. :P
so they vote on posts now! remind me to only say postive, and encouraging things so that no one would bother to vote them down.
you don't know what are getting into, the last guy i went on a date with is still recovering
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Oct 15, 2004, 3:54 PM
Post #15 of 22
(4834 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
Yeah, but it's been over a year since a woman wrecked my life. I'm ready for more! :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
markc
Oct 15, 2004, 5:23 PM
Post #16 of 22
(4834 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
As others have said, there are many contributing factors. Only you know to which degree they may apply. Sloppy footwork is frequently a problem for new climbers, especially men (who tend to rely on upper-body strength to a larger degree than women). The gym environment is also very harsh on shoes.
You have to consider the shoes themselves. A thin, sensitive slipper will blow out very quickly under heavy use. Board-lasted shoes typically feature somewhat thicker rubber. The type of rubbers used by different companies also impact the durability. Quality control may also be an issue.
(When you resole, you should be able to specify different brands and thicknesses of rubber. If your shoes are already insensitive, maybe go with something heavy-duty.)
|
|
|
|
|
t-dog
Deleted
Oct 15, 2004, 5:41 PM
Post #17 of 22
(4832 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
the simple answer is sort of mean:
SHITTY FOOTWORK, period.
If you want to have your shoes last longer, practice climbing while delicately placing your feet on the holds. Aim for your feet not making any noise when they touch the holds, it's tougher, but once you get that down, your shoes will last a LOT longer :shock:
|
|
|
|
|
jay07
Oct 15, 2004, 6:02 PM
Post #18 of 22
(4834 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 77
|
Just find an experienced climber in your gym, explain your issue, ask them to watch you climb 2-3 routes, and they will likely be able to tell you in detail what you are doing non-optimally with your feet that is causing the atypical wear.
|
|
|
|
|
lazygirl
Oct 15, 2004, 6:17 PM
Post #20 of 22
(4834 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 88
|
Mad Rocks wear out pretty fast for nearly every climber no matter how good their footwork is. With the combination of sloppy footwork because of inexperiance and cheap shoes you just accelerated the process.
In fact, REI stopped carring at least one type of Mad Rock shoe because the returns on them were so high.
I have the Zelots but I don't climb in them. My friend who also has them is starting to see some wear on them and he has only had them about a month. However, I never really looked to see what his footwork is like. Them seem pretty durable to me and have a nice stiff ruber on them.
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Oct 16, 2004, 4:16 AM
Post #21 of 22
(4832 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
In reply to: But I can't see anything obvious with my technique that would make me go through two pairs of shoes in 3 months.
Of course you can't! you've been climbing for Three months!!
Like Jay07 said, get someone experienced to critique your climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
coylec
Oct 16, 2004, 4:46 AM
Post #22 of 22
(4832 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 12, 2003
Posts: 2024
|
In reply to: the simple answer is sort of mean: s--- FOOTWORK, period. If you want to have your shoes last longer, practice climbing while delicately placing your feet on the holds. Aim for your feet not making any noise when they touch the holds, it's tougher, but once you get that down, your shoes will last a LOT longer :shock:
So mean, yet so true.
I was lucky enough to work at a climbing gym when I was getting into climbing. I was able to use rentals for free. So, I did. I also destroyed two pairs of shoes because of horrible technique. I scraped and dragged, bang and kicked. I flailed like a rag-doll in a tornado. My technique SUCKED. It's a new skill and you have to learn ... it not something you've ever done before. Everyone sucked for a while ... to get better, you identify the problem and fix it.
As others have suggested, listen to yourself climb. Also, you know how you watch your hand being placed? Watch your feet the same way. Work on never moving your foot until you know exactly where its going to go, then moving it with purpose and direction, watching it until it is placed and weighed. This will be PAINFULLY slow. Do it in a smooth and controlled manner. PRACTICE MAKES PERMANENT. Do this every climb until you get it. This motion will become easy and practiced.
This issue is completey technique ... you should search for foot work and foot technique material through the quick search function and books on technique.
coylec
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
