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zenlunatic
Oct 15, 2004, 12:00 AM
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What's the etiquette for giving beta while someone is in the midst climbing? I was climbing on a boulder route yesterday when some high schooler who works at the gym starts yelling and telling me what move was next. His yapping took me out of my concentration and I fell. This has happened with him before. I usually let it go, but yesterday I told the guy to shut up and if I wanted his advice I'd ask for it. He has been climbing as long as I have, but thinks because he works at a gym he knows what's up. I am so open to any knowledgable advice, but don't take advantage of that by trying force feed me BS while I'm straining.
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pylonhead
Oct 15, 2004, 12:29 AM
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Indoor or outdoor, beta should be given only when asked for, unless you are friends with the climber and know that they will appreciate the help at the moment.
It's hard to resist telling someone about the great pocket that's just around the arete when you see them struggling, but it's unfair not to let them solve the problem for themselves.
Now I just need to start following my own advice and STFU. :)
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matixa
Oct 15, 2004, 12:43 AM
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Happens all the time. Just yell out, "no beta", when you start struggling.
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okie_redneck
Oct 15, 2004, 1:49 AM
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Who cares? It's indoors. Not real. Big fluffy pads at the bottom.
Yes, the guy in the gym displayed bad etiquette, but indoors.
If you really want to irk someone off, just skip the hold they're telling you to go for and look at them like they're an idiot.
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matixa
Oct 15, 2004, 2:07 AM
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Those 'big, fluffy pads' can still sprain something.
Indoors/outdoors.........it's whatever/whereever you can do at the moment-it's still climbing.
I really think that (generally) the beta is meant in sincerity rather than superiority. Maybe that is what THEY prefer. Or maybe they don't realize that "that" hold makes you off balance.
I stick by what I say....say "no beta" to give a heads up.
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okie_redneck
Oct 15, 2004, 2:24 AM
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Sorry. The people I climb with think that throwing a water balloon at a friend attempting V8 is hallarious, and so do I. Falling is part of bouldering. If you're worried about spraining an ankle, use a toprope. Climbing is supposed to be fun. Some jerk spraying beta to me is at worst laughable. I find that climbers of questionable skill will often substitute attitude for ability. I can say with all sincerity that I have never climbed angry. There is no reason to be mad when you're doing what you love. If you are mad, you only have yourself to blame when you fall.
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alucard
Oct 15, 2004, 2:31 AM
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I like to give encouragement more than beta
encouraging someone can go a long way.
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oklahoma_climber
Oct 15, 2004, 2:55 AM
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In reply to: I like to give encouragement more than beta encouraging someone can go a long way.
good call auzie. i like it. we could use more people like you state-side.
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hurdles
Oct 15, 2004, 3:21 PM
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indoor etiquette? same as outdoor etiquette...no unsolicited beta.
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markc
Oct 15, 2004, 3:40 PM
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In reply to: I like to give encouragement more than beta encouraging someone can go a long way.
Truth be told, I'm not a big fan of mid-route encouragement, either. Congratulate me when I'm done if you feel it's necessary. In the moment it feels a bit premature. As others said with beta, it can be distracting. Most of my partners have come to realize a well-timed, "Nice move" is fine, but constant cheerleading is off-limits. (Unless you're willing to wear the outfit.)
Unsolicited advice is rarely appreciated, especially in a pursuit where we're intentionally problem-solving for the fun of it. Imagine someone constantly looking over your shoulder while you did the crossword and making suggestions.
The other day a friend was struggling through a section, and I just asked, "Need a little beta?" He admitted he did, but if he had declined I would have let him work it out until he burned himself out. If someone regularly gives unwanted beta, just pull him/her aside when you're done and say, "I prefer to figure out sequences on my own, but I appreciate the enthusiasm. I'll certainly let you know when I could use some help." It's polite, but it gets the point across.
mark
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itakealot
Oct 15, 2004, 3:55 PM
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"I would rather a beta master than a master beta!"
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overlord
Oct 18, 2004, 9:48 AM
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In reply to: Those 'big, fluffy pads' can still sprain something.
ditto that i twisted a knee when i fell between two pads. not nice.
anyway, unwanted beta is almost always bad. the only god time is when you see someone about to take a serious whipper, but you know of a jug just aroud the corner that can save their @$$.
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doublehelix
Oct 18, 2004, 2:13 PM
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Registered: Sep 28, 2004
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Got to go with everyone else and tell you to just tell them "no beta" however if it's a problem that keeps happening try and use it. The annoyance adds a dimension of stress and learning to perform in stressful circtumstances, no matter how trivial, is always a good thing.
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bad_lil_kitty
Oct 20, 2004, 8:27 PM
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In reply to: I like to give encouragement more than beta encouraging someone can go a long way.
totally!!! or i know this is going to sound dorky... but, lol i don't always wear my glasses and i do appreciate when i am looking for the hold and it's obvious if someone let's me know if my foot is on or off...
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