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nswelton
Sep 13, 2004, 3:30 AM
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Registered: May 30, 2001
Posts: 31
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Who's chopping bolts at San Ysidro? Some of those bolts have been there for five or six years! Why don't you do something productive with your time, like replace the shoddy anchors at the top of Applied Magnetics or the rusty 1/4 bolts with Leeper hangers all over the cliff? You don't own this place, dude, and if you did I'd hope you take better care of it than you do now.
And learn to remove bolts: obliterating them-- along with all the adjacent rock -- with a hammer only creates a big fat eyesore far uglier than a camo hanger.
I'd pay for new bolts and hangers and fix everything at the cliff myself, but how am I to be sure you're not going to steal everything? How big a bag of stolen hardware do you have in your garage?
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tadam2000
Oct 17, 2004, 5:03 PM
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Registered: Oct 17, 2004
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Speaking of which, and not to get too far off-topic, there's another bolt there that ought to be replaced if it hasn't been already. Regan Saunders & I put up a variation to Rockocco that swings out onto the face to the right of the alcove. A few twinkle-toes moves (5.6-ish) go out right and up to a bolt and then up to the top. We did that route in September of 1978, and if the bolt I can see from the ground is the same bolt I put in there, it's been 26 years and might be worth replacing.
As to those bolds that are getting brute-forced out, BAAAD KITTY! When I was areally active, SY was probably my favorite place of all on the Central Coast. I find it very disturbing to learn that someone's not showing the area the respect it deserves. Some things never change, I guess.
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ben87
Oct 17, 2004, 5:58 PM
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Registered: Mar 26, 2004
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where is the place you're talking about? just curious.
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jerrygarcia
Oct 17, 2004, 6:29 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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In reply to: where is the place you're talking about? just curious.
At the top of the post under the thread name it says
(this topic refers to the areaSan Ysidro
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sandbag
Oct 17, 2004, 7:32 PM
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Registered: Jan 12, 2003
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all this talk of bolt chopping lately has made me want to get geared up with loads of epoxy and start blanking routes at a whim, you know, the lil edges, pockets etc, just to counter the bolt chopping thats being eschewed by people that have climbed less than the age of my first pair of climbing shoes.... nature has balance, ill begin my evil plot to become the anti-bolt-chopper and route blanker.....woohoo :twisted:
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toejam
Nov 22, 2004, 7:30 AM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 358
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I don't know who did the chopping, but I'm sure what set them off was the new bolt that showed up to the right of Vanishing Flakes earlier this year. It really didn't belong as that was a long-standing highball problem/variation, it took away from the esthetics of the old fixed pin on Flakes, and anyone really in need of protection could do so from the top. I'll agree that whoever chopped it left an eyesore that is worse than the bolt itself. The same goes for the removal of the unsound bolt at the top of Orangahang, and the bolt that was added some time ago to Applied Magnetics. I heard through the grapevine that the reason for the removal of the anchors at the top of Flakes was that they were unsound. They have since been replaced (by the same fellow who put in the originals) with some solid hardware.
San Ysidro was where I learned to climb, and is still my favorite place to just get out, touch the rock, listen to the stream and soak in the outdoors. Its a beautiful little canyon and I'd ask bolters and choppers alike to please keep their hands off and just appreciate the esthetics and history of the place.
Oh, and if anyone happened to pick up a Black Sierra Designs windproof fleece with zippers left there some months ago, it was my favourite and I miss it. :?
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