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good idea/bad idea?
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ben87


Oct 24, 2004, 2:07 AM
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good idea/bad idea?
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never aided much, except once on TR, just for practice. Would it be too risky to try my hand at a bit of aid, just using typical trad gear? leaving in my most solid placements, as trad pro, as I go along.

comfortable in moderate trad terrain. would it be a good idea trying to aid through terrain a few grades above my usual leading limit.... ? or is this totally stupid?

keeping the same frame of mind one does when leading -- likelyhood of a fall, consequences of a fall...etc.

my rack:

bunch of shoulder length slings
a few double length slings
three prussick loops
two cordelettes
three quick draws

one ATC and one GriGri

a bunch of petzl spirits for trad draws and racking gear plus a few ovalwires for stoppers, also a few large biners.

range of BD stoppers with doubles in the mid-range

cams -

purple TCU
blue TCU
yellow TCU
yellow Alien
yellow metolius power cam
orange TCU
red TCU
red metolius power cam
.75 camalot
#1 camalot
#2 camalot
#3 camalot

plus a handful of BD hexes and WC forged friends.

one 60 m lead rope
one 60 m rope, retired from lead duty

one 80' static, one 40' static, 2 40' lengths of webbing plus a few odd lengths of short webbing.

I imagine a few micro-stoppers and the smallest cams would come in handy.... plus a few more oval-shaped biners.......

and, obviously, real aiders would be great.... but would it be okay to fashion aiders from webbing?


Partner euroford


Oct 24, 2004, 8:25 AM
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go have at it dood.

as is frequently recomended, new trad leaders learn allot from getting on aid. considering your already comfy on trad, your definitly prepaired for aid.

don't bother worrying about number grades. a 5.12 finger crack would be brutal free, but could be a breeze on aid. pick a hard steep crack that doesn't get much traffic and start aiding.


flamer


Oct 24, 2004, 12:09 PM
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Good idea.

It's probably the best way to learn aid stuff....

josh


david.yount
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Oct 24, 2004, 12:35 PM
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Give it a whirl! Definatey. You've got enough gear.

Just choose a line that is not long to reach rap anchors, 'cuz you don't have that much gear and since you're new to aiding your placements will be very very close together (unless you're bold and over 6'3").

If you do run out of gear (usually you won't use everything on your rack, but you'll be at a spot where you got no gear in the size you need) you can lower down past the top 3 pieces and back clean lower pieces, regain your high point, and continue on.

Leave those top 3 pieces alone 'cuz assuming they are each bomber then with those 3 pieces sequentially placed you shouldn't deck while backcleaning lower pieces and returning to your high point.

Aiders hand tied from bulk webbing are totaly safe, and a fine fine tradition!

david yount.


slavetogravity


Oct 24, 2004, 12:39 PM
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In reply to:
my rack:
bunch of shoulder length slings
a few double length slings
three prussick loops
two cordelettes
three quick draws

one ATC and one GriGri

a bunch of petzl spirits for trad draws and racking gear plus a few ovalwires for stoppers, also a few large biners.

range of BD stoppers with doubles in the mid-range

cams -

purple TCU
blue TCU
yellow TCU
yellow Alien
yellow metolius power cam
orange TCU
red TCU
red metolius power cam
.75 camalot
#1 camalot
#2 camalot
#3 camalot

plus a handful of BD hexes and WC forged friends.

one 60 m lead rope
one 60 m rope, retired from lead duty

one 80' static, one 40' static, 2 40' lengths of webbing plus a few odd lengths of short webbing.

I imagine a few micro-stoppers and the smallest cams would come in handy.... plus a few more oval-shaped biners.......

The first accent of the Salathe Wall on El Capitan was done with less. I'm sure you'll do fine.


asandh


Oct 24, 2004, 2:00 PM
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:)


ben87


Oct 24, 2004, 4:35 PM
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sounds good. thanks!

-Ben


moof


Oct 24, 2004, 5:41 PM
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The first accent of the Salathe Wall on El Capitan was done with less. I'm sure you'll do fine.

Have you seen the picture of Royal Robbins preparing in the Big Wall Supertaco? He had about 90 pins, 4 hammers, and a cup of coffee.

Just had to bust you on that.

If you're worried about running out of gear, TR the first time. Otherwise when you run low build a mini anchor, lower off and reclimb fully back cleaning your second time up and continue past your mini-anchor.


moof


Oct 24, 2004, 5:42 PM
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In reply to:
The first accent of the Salathe Wall on El Capitan was done with less. I'm sure you'll do fine.

Have you seen the picture of Royal Robbins preparing in the Big Wall Supertaco? He had about 90 pins, 4 hammers, and a cup of coffee.

Just had to bust you on that.

If you're worried about running out of gear, TR the first time. Otherwise when you run low build a mini anchor, lower off and reclimb fully back cleaning your second time up and continue past your mini-anchor.


tradmanclimbs


Oct 24, 2004, 6:48 PM
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Screw the top rope idea. sounds like you are pleanty prepared to give it a whack. My first aid climb was 30 meter A2+ FA that did not get repeted for 10 years. we had home made aiders a few pins, one hook and a freecliming rack with no cams. I used a humming bird ice hammer to drive pins 8^) If you run out of gear use the back cleanig advice, or pair up with a friend that has some gear. You will want to get some micro stoppers. Worst case scenario you have to rap the climb to get your bailing gear or if its really overhanging you might lose a few pieces. Chalk it up to higher edumacation 8^)


Partner rgold


Oct 24, 2004, 7:46 PM
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For a beginner at aid, the first placement is arguably the most dangerous. If it blows, you fall onto the ground or the belay. This can be especially insidious if you make a few moves free before placing your first aid piece, because then the fall may be nasty, depending on the landing area. My recommendation is to err on the side of overcaution and place a second piece to protect the first aid move.


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