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philbox
Moderator
Oct 24, 2004, 11:22 PM
Post #1 of 5
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Registered: Jun 27, 2002
Posts: 13105
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When I was a kid we used to go as a family for holidays up to the Sunshine Coast north of Brisbane in South East Queensland, Australia. On the dirve up to the coast we would pass the Glasshouse Mountains and Mt. Tibrogargan would loom over the highway like a great huge gorilla.
I would dream for hours about climbing on that mountain even though I was only a little kid.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=42365
The red line shows the route that Aphelion takes up the south east flanks of Mt. Tibrogargan.
Having gotten a lot of experience climbing all over south east Queensland and points beyond and also having learnt to develop routes Mt. Tibrogargan beckoned with its vast expanses of unclimbed rock.
We first of all had to climb all the original trad routes so that we would not interfere with work that had already been done in past years. Doing that we updated the guide and thus we were able to identify what has and has not been done.
The old guide was very vague on where routes went and so a lot of rock remained unclimbed because climbers would spook themselves silly heading out to uncharted territory. It is soooo easy to get lost on the confusing terrain up on those steep faces.
Cam Fairbairn and I had ogled the white and orange rock of the south east corner for a while and so it was decided to drop a rope over and see if the rumours of scary loose rock were in fact true. nothing could be further from the truth we subsequently found out and we found beautiful hard rock for the most part welded together to form awesome huge handholds on rather steep terrain.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=42366
Tim belaying and Mark climbing the second pitch of Aphelion.
Cam scoped out the route and did some initial work on establishing anchors. Whilst doing so he found some museum relics of old pitons and manky slings which he cleaned. The pitons twisted off in his fingers. It was found out through conversations with Ted Cais that this gear was put in as a bail point about 30 years ago. He had cast jealous eyes over this proud section of the wall all those years ago.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=42367
Mark gunning up through the steep section on the second pitch.
Cam and I then worked together to place all the protection on the unclimbed steep sections. The 3rd pitch is some 7 metres overhung over somewhat of a constant angle and it runs for around 30 metres. That is one stiff pitch which does not have very many rests so it is a goey grade 22 which constantly comes at you. Hard to bolt from the ground up too.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=42368
Tim shows what he is made of as he charges into the very steep territory.
Hayden had indicated recently that he wished to do a bit of climbing on Mt. Tibrogargan and I offered to guide him up. Just as we were about to start up Aphelion Mark and Tim arrived at the base so I offered to take some pics of them and so I jugged on fixed lines while Hayden had a rest after he sent each pitch.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=42369
Poor Tim, falls down, doesn`t go boom though.
Hayden onsighted every pitch and so could well lay claim to the fist continuous onsight. Previous ascents including the FFA were swung leads.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=42370
Tim back on track now and sorting himself out to make headway.
The day was wicked hot and we were all suffering from heat exhaustion and dehydration. Tim fell off the climb several times and Mark was equally falling up it.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=42371
Haydens perch from whence he could spy the hangdogging happening below him.
After we all got up we scampered up to the Halfway House Terrace and rapped over Clemency meeting others waiting at the bottom. This route is destined to be a trade route I am sure. Everyone I have spoken to raves about the quality of the climb. Cam and I are now working on another climb to the south of this one by about 10 or 12 metres.
Aphelion, 90 metres Oz grade 22, FFA Phil Box and Cam Fairbairn 2004.
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slavetogravity
Oct 24, 2004, 11:37 PM
Post #2 of 5
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Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 1114
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This is awesome, I gets me thinking that I should contribute a trip report of some climbing I did in The Acropolis/ Mt Geryon in Tasmania.
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cbare
Oct 25, 2004, 12:47 AM
Post #3 of 5
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Registered: Sep 18, 2004
Posts: 64
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This is great story with some top notch pictures. I hope more people read this post and give it high reviews. You should think about putting this in the articles section.
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timmah
Oct 25, 2004, 1:07 AM
Post #4 of 5
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Registered: Mar 19, 2003
Posts: 93
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:D Thanks for the awesome day out, Phil (and Haydon)! It truly was a unique experience having one of the FAs pointing out good holds from above! 8^) Nice TR and piccies too. It's a shame noone was in front of Haydon to capture his much more stylish ascent!
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maculated
Oct 25, 2004, 1:55 AM
Post #5 of 5
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
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Phil, so glad you got to get on a route you've been dreaming about since you were a wee one.
That photo of Hayden on his perch is a good one. I bet you and he had a good natter. :P
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