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smeargle
Oct 24, 2004, 2:53 PM
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I'm looking to upgrade to one of these shoes as most of the climbing near where I live (Phoenix, climbing in Queen Creek) depends greatly on a shoe that can edge really well.
I was wondering how much the La Sportiva Katanas and 5.10 Anasazis stretch, how much did you have to size them down? I am definitely going to try them on before buying, but should I REALLY size them down at first to accaount for stretch?
Thanks
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arkansasclimber
Oct 24, 2004, 2:57 PM
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I'ld deffinitely go for the anasazis. THey edge like no other. Downsize .5-1 size at most, these things dont stretch at all. I know some people thast downsized more than that but they used them as bouldering slippers, never using the velcro. not to comfortable.
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sirtoots
Oct 24, 2004, 3:00 PM
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I'va gotten at least a good half size of stretch out of my Katanas, maybe a little more. It is a bit hard to tell as they weren't all that snug to begin with. I did have to take them off every once in a while at first, but now I could use them as all day shoes.
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claramie
Oct 24, 2004, 3:26 PM
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I'm all about Katanas and Sportiva in general. My Katanas haven't stretched much (if any) and I've climbed in them a bit.
Go to the REI in Tempe, to try them on. We have Katanas in most all sizes and we have both Anasazi velcro and mocasyms too. (I work in the climbing department).
Clayton
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roc-dude
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Oct 24, 2004, 3:28 PM
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You will get little stretch in the anasazis. The Katana I got about a 1/2 size. If you are looking for the pure edgeing shoe I would go with the Katana's. My Last trip to QC they are what I used. I think the Anasazia are great shoes and I used them alot but on sharp edging rock I go to the Katana's.
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catbiter
Oct 24, 2004, 4:00 PM
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I have Katanas and I must agree that they streched about half a size. They edge really really well, even though I could wear them all day. Sportivas are the only shoe I can wear because of the size of my feet. I got the Muras about 3 weeks ago and those things are machines!
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organic
Oct 24, 2004, 4:35 PM
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I would definitely go with the anasazi velcros as I just finished off a pair of those and now own a pair of katanas. The new anasazis now have the new HF stealth rubber, which when climbing hard you can tell a difference between HF stealth and the Vibram XSV on the katanas. To edge go with the anasazi you will definitely feel solid on your feet. Also size about .5-1.5 sizes down depending on how much pain you can stand and how aggressive you want them. They barely stretch maybe a 1/4-1/2 size at peak strechability if you use them everyday or every other day.
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johnny_b_goode
Oct 24, 2004, 4:35 PM
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I sized my Anaszi's down 1.5, and they are awesome. The heel of the shoe is like a suction cup onto my heel, and I have never been happier with a shoe. I havent encountered much stretching, but they do seem to sort of "shape" to your foot after a little. Maybe its just me...
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sportyj
Oct 24, 2004, 5:04 PM
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Well I think you know where I stand, although I see ALOT of happy Anasazi owners in here! I do have to say the Katanas stretch (isn't it obvious when the glue appears on the leather by the toe?) I am still at the point where I have to take them off after climbs requiring alot of edging and foot pressure, but I can see them getting better. I love the shoe, but it will be quite dependant on what feels right. I am sure we will be at REI next weekend hoping for some sales on the shoes right?
By the way - you are a STUDLY climber, yesterday was great on the rock! :roll:
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yay_chris
Oct 24, 2004, 5:27 PM
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The Katanas don't stretch very much at all.
But I wouldn't recommend the Katana anyway. The shoe has a bad reputation for its poor durability.
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slip
Oct 24, 2004, 6:34 PM
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I have both and climb in Queen Creek. Both are excellent shoes for edging. My anasazi velcros have lasted longer and prefer them over than the katanas. But I don't anything really bad to say about my katanas either. I did take a few months for my anasazis to stop wearing off the skin on top of me toes. But they are perfect now.
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sevrdhed
Oct 25, 2004, 1:11 PM
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I also downsized my Anasazi's 1 shoe size, and they perform great, while remaining extremely comfortable.
Steve
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cammaniac
Oct 25, 2004, 1:16 PM
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i downsized my Katanas 1 size and wished now I had only gone down 1/2 size. I am not getting any stretch out of them and can't keep them on any longer than 30 minutes. I've heard they stretch, but I haven't seen it. As for performance, I really like them, they edge well and are pretty sensitive. I can see them getting a hole in the toe pretty quick.
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usmc_2tothetop
Oct 25, 2004, 1:40 PM
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I have the 5.10's and they do stretch alittle. My friend has the katanas and he loves them. Mine are pretty good for edging. Although the heel is quite roomy.
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overlord
Oct 25, 2004, 1:49 PM
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i have anasazi laceups. they didnt stretch much, just enough to conform to my foot. i really love them.
i downsized a little, .5-1 size.
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mheyman
Oct 25, 2004, 2:32 PM
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In reply to: The Katanas don't stretch very much at all. But I wouldn't recommend the Katana anyway. The shoe has a bad reputation for its poor durability.
????
In the last 10 years
I have owned 5 pairs of La Sportiva shoes in two models, and had not one problem.
I have owned 4 pairs of 5.10 shoes in three models - every one has had an upper/sole problems.
I still like some 5.10 shoes. I just bought a new pair, not counted above since they are brand new!
My Katanas do not stretch. What will be best for you though will be fit dependant. There are many 5.10 shoes that I just cannot wear because they are to painful for me to wear in any climbable size.
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jabarnes
Oct 26, 2004, 7:05 PM
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Dude definetly go with the katanas. The edges are insane and very sturdy. The anasazi edges flex much more and five-ten rubber sucks anyway. The Katanas don't stretch much at all but do have a weird heel on them so get about .5-1 size down.
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takeme
Oct 26, 2004, 7:15 PM
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I own a pair of Katanas and a pair of Anasazi Velcros. The Katanas have definitely stretched more. Performance wise, I'd say they've been about equal (both great, and among the best shoes I've owned in that regard), but in terms of durability, the Velcros have far out-lasted the Katanas. Much to my suprise.
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goodwholesomeboy
Oct 26, 2004, 7:45 PM
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I've got a pair of the katanas and I think they might even stretch a full size. Mine were very tight when I got them and now i can walk around in them all day.
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viticeps
Oct 27, 2004, 5:58 AM
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My Katanas stretched to the point I had to wear socks to get a snug fit.... semi-thick socks I might add. The heel pocket really started to sag as well. These were my first pair though and perhaps I didn't take proper care of them.
If stretching is a major issue and you're looking at the Anasazi and Katanas, I'd consider the Evolv Kaos, which are also velcro slippers. It's made with synthetic leather so there is an absolute minimum of stretching. They fit like a glove (I know it sounds cliche, and I dismissed this remark until I put on my own pair... and now I can't stop saying it), and are very comfortable at the same time.
These shoes edge and heel hook way better than my Katanas ever did. The rubber is still working on finding its tooth so I can't comment on the smearing, but over just a few sessions I've found it to be excellent; very close to C4 quality (I had my Katanas resoled w/ C4 at one point). By the way Evolv makes their own rubber (Yosemite Bum, the prior name of the company, makes "Trax15" rubber) so they'll know what they're doing when you need a resole.
Finally.... you will not find better customer support than what you get at Evolv. These people (Brian, the owner of the company in particular) take the time to make sure you get the right shoe. I tried to order mine online and selected a shoe size, and Brian emailed me some questions regarding my feet to make sure I got the right fit. He asked me some questions about my history with other shoes, my preferred fit (snug, tight, semi-tight, etc.) my street shoe size, and that whole bit. Turned out I needed to go with half a size larger, and when I got them two days later they were absolutely perfect.
I've seen these "Katana vs Anasazi" comparison posts a couple times now, all I can say is you'll need to start adding Kaos to that mix! :) I'd go the extra step though and read the gear reviews on all three shoes, especially since I haven't had mine long enough to make a full and fair assessment of the stretching issue. But from what I read on reviews from people who've owned their Kaos for quite some time, rarely did I see an issue w/ stretching.
Hope this helps. :)
-Mike
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clausti
Oct 27, 2004, 6:06 AM
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edit: delete.
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pheenixx
Oct 27, 2004, 6:16 AM
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In reply to: ....and five-ten rubber sucks anyway.
Yeah, it sucks the rock better than any other rubber out there... 8^)
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craghack
Oct 27, 2004, 7:53 AM
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Yep, Pheenixx is right! There ain't no rubber like five-ten rubber!
Don't know about Katanas but the Velcros DO NOT stretch! I usually wear size 45 (Europe), did buy size 46 but still suffer, even after half a year and climbing at least twice a week. But I love them! :D
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highcountry
Oct 27, 2004, 9:25 AM
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Haven't heard any mention of the Anasazi South Wests... I've heard they edge like no other. I haven't had a chance to check them out though... For the time being I love my mocasyms.
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adoubleyou
Oct 27, 2004, 11:10 AM
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My partner has the Anasazi Velcro, and I'm using Katana's. The Anasazi hurt my feet quite a bit, but performance wise they are probably pretty equal. My partners Anasazi's didn't last all that long. He bought them in June, and already had to get them resoled, even though he is a very "silent" (precise) climber. Me, I have mine since September, so I can't say anything about durability yet, but I LOVE them. With those I'm climbing more difficult routs than before, no matter if its steep slap climbing or tiny holds. They seem to stick to everything. About the sizing, I usually wear a 40 (European size), and got them in 38 1/2. At first they felt pretty tight on my left toe, but their getting better. The warmer the weather, the more comfortable the shoe fits.
So here is what I based my decision on when I bought the shoes. I looked at a performance test done by a German climbing magazine. They tested 10 Velcro's and 11 lace shoes. I'm not sure how many climbers in their team tested them, but this is what the average came out to be (5 = highest score):
Fit of toe box
Anasazi (A): 4
Katana (K): 5
Fit of heel
A: 3
K: 4
closure system
A: 4
K: 5
sensibility
A: 5
K: 5
performance on edges
A: 4
K: 4
performance in holes
A: 4
K: 5
performance foothook
A: 4
K: 4
If anybody wants to know the results for these shoes, let me know:
Boreal: ZEN
Mammut: Bouldozer
Red Chili: Dos Equis
Roc'Teryx: Troodon
Rock Pillars: Jump
Scarpa: Dominator V
Tenaya: Scratch
Triop: Twist
Boreal: Spider
Bufo: Weapon
Five Ten: Anasazi Mesa
La Sportiva: Mythos
Mad Rock: Hooker
Mammut: Extreme
Millet: Krucial
Red Chili: Phantom
Roc'Terra: Sabre
Scarpa: Marathon
Triop: Rap
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