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willingspirit
Oct 26, 2004, 4:35 PM
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I started rock climbing about a year ago. I climb 5.3-5.4 on outdoor rock. Is it to early to make the transtion to ice climbing? I'm thinking about going for a day or two with a guide this winter. How easy is the easiest ice? Think I'll be able to have a decent go at it?
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kid
Oct 26, 2004, 6:38 PM
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Ice and rock are very different mediums. If you are confident on belay and don't get sketched on rock you will be fine with ice. Start with some WI2 and easy WI3. Get comfortable with the positions and swinging axes and it will be second nature. If ice fall, dinner plates and variable conditions freak you out stick to the rock. There are a whole set a sore muscles waiting for you when you start training for ice. I say grab a friend and give it a shot. Rock climbing is not a prerequisit to ice. Climb safe. ~ Greg F
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crag
Oct 26, 2004, 6:52 PM
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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In reply to: I started rock climbing about a year ago. I climb 5.3-5.4 on outdoor rock. Is it to early to make the transtion to ice climbing?
No, absolutely not, stick with your plan to go with a guide, bring your credit card when you do go cuz you'll most likely get bitten by the gear bug, (vaccines are in short supply).
Read books, there are many out there now a days and have as much fun as possible in a cold and most likely wet environment.
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euroford
Oct 26, 2004, 7:06 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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for a good intro to ice, you might want to seriously consider visiting one of the festivals, such as ouray. for my first two seasons i went to the UP ice fest and it was a great way to try it out, have a grand time, and to do so at a reasonably price.
the first time i tried ice i was a neophite rock climber, and though i had established basic technique i had not yet developed the muscles or specialized techniques that allow you to climb higher grades on rock. ice was a blast becouse it didn't leave me pumping out on crimpers and finger locks that i wasn't yet strong enough to really handle.
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wormly81
Oct 26, 2004, 7:26 PM
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Like Willingspirit, I plan on exploring the realm of ice climbing following my first season on rock and am looking for information on how to make this transition most efficiently.
I have limited alpine experience (steep snow in the Tetons and Tuckermans Ravine, alpine-ish rock at Cannon, NH), and was wondering what reading materials would be most worth my time and money. I've read FOTH and every rock climbing book and online resource available, but I would like to know what ice climbing and alpine focused books good climbers reccommend.
Thanks for the info!
Jeff
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crag
Oct 26, 2004, 10:49 PM
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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Books I have:
The Games Climbers Play: Various
Climbing Ice - Yvon Chouinard
Jeff Lowe's book - forget the name
FOTH - newest edition
I think Gadd Published a book too.
Also check:
Publications by - Craig Lubben & Clyde Soles
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kid
Oct 27, 2004, 4:47 AM
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Try extreme alpinism by Mark Twight. This is an advanced book but opens your mind to the ideas of swift movement and walks you through the reality of alpine climbing in its finest. Freedom of the hills is still a great reference for general alpine climbing because it covers all aspects from avalnche to placing pro. Get out an do it, Don't look back. ~Greg F
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crag
Oct 27, 2004, 4:33 PM
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Lowe’s book is titled “ICE WORLD”. I found it to be an updated version of what Chouinard publish umpteen years ago.
If you live in the NE then take advantage of the ICE Feasts that occur each year.
Adirondacks Ice Feast
Catskills Ice Feast
NE Ice Feast
The Mountaineer in Keene should be you base of information for the Daks. Rick Wilcox’s store IME in Conway for NH & most of NE. Rich Gotlieb’s store Rock & Snow in New Paltz can help you with the Catskills.
All three climbing areas have great beginner and moderate area to learn. Hook up with an old-fart to help show you around.
Is ice climbing for you? You’ll know with in the first couple of swings
2nd hand gear is fine. Mixed match tools is OK too. Boots that don’t fit suck. Wet and warm is better than wet and cold, get your clothing system dialed in – read the books but trial and error will tell what’s best. Learn to drink single malt Scotch Whiskey, if you haven’t already. Learn not to buy the hype; you’ll save yourself a bundle, more left over to buy expensive single malts. Divorce your wife, GF or SO – you’re an ice climber now and have no time for such frivolous ventures. Buy a helmet! Learn to read the ice and what its many different faces mean. Don’t over swing your tools but don’t swing like a pansy. Cotton sucks. Get your glove system dialed in. Build houses during the summer, air nail guns are for woosies – 24oz California Waffle Head Hammer is the best training tool. Learn to wake-up at Oh:darkthirty, you’ll have your pick of climbs, the rest of us will be sleeping-off our single malt hangovers. Don’t ice climb with your SO – it gets real ugly real fast if you do. Buy a good down belay parka, good doesn’t equal expensive. New gear is expensive, but it’s only money. Losing a partner sucks. Listen to your body. Wet ropes are heavy and frozen ropes suck. Buy a small bastard file. WD40 is your tools best friend to ward off surface rust but don’t worry if they do, its only surface rust. Eat well the night before climbing – it stokes the furnace. Walking in rigid crampons sucks. Trekking polls are trendy but helpful. Heavy packs suck. Wallowing in waist deep snow blows but is pretty. Take bukko pictures your non-climbing friends won’t believe when you tell them the stitches on the bridge of your nose is from when your ice axe popped out of its purchase and smacked you in your face. Learn the Monkey Hang and the staggered tool or tripod method it’s more efficient. Don’t over grip your shaft(s) – your ice axes dummy! Oh and one more thing have s--- loads of fun
Cheers,
Crag
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