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the_pirate
Oct 28, 2004, 10:03 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 3984
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A question for the ladies and gents of the Aid Forum:
How do you deal with the toes of your shoes?
Over this past summer I spent a lot of time jugging ropes on vertical faces for photographic purposes. Standing in aiders for extended periods, I wanted something supportive on my piggly-wigglies, so I would wear my Norwegian welted mountaineering boots. After jugging two dozen or so pitches I had worn the front of the welt flush with the toe and since then have worn into the toe itself.
Do you just accept the fact that you are going to burn through kicks or is there some method you use to extend the life of your boots?
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strider
Oct 28, 2004, 10:08 PM
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Registered: Apr 9, 2003
Posts: 173
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Shoe Goo and Duct tape... works wonders...
-n
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paddle4121
Oct 31, 2004, 11:57 PM
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Registered: Feb 27, 2004
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When you mention your Boreal boots, have you tried the new 'Boreal Big-Wall' ones they just started to make?
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cracklover
Nov 1, 2004, 7:52 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Not to take this off-topic, but I just started aid climbing, and I can't decide whether to wear my hiking boots or my climbing shoes. I wound up going w/ my hiking boots for jugging and my climbing shoes for the lead - just because the free-climbing was so scary in my big honking boots. What do other folks do? Do I need to get a third pair of shoes?
GO
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ammon
Nov 1, 2004, 9:11 PM
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Registered: Feb 27, 2004
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Hey cracklover,
That's what I (and most of my partners) do. If I really want to go light I'll wear my free shoes the entire wall.
Also, the angle of the rock is going to be a big part of wear and tear. On lower angle jugging try not to drag your toe as much. Lift your foot away from the wall, just a hair, before stepping into your loop.
This simple technique will save you a ton of rubber.
Cheers, Ammon
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pmyche
Nov 1, 2004, 9:42 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 1160
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[Delete]
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euroford
Nov 1, 2004, 10:01 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
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i like to wear fairly heavy duty boots, usually my la sportiva glaciers.
nice and supportive in aiders, all day comfrotable (after being broken in), and depending upon the style and grade of free climbing they are usable.
bring free shoes in the pack if your going to really need them.
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atg200
Nov 1, 2004, 11:37 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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if i am on a short route(one day or less) that isn't just a big nailup, i tend to wear a very comfortable pair of kaukulators. i free climb a lot more than i will in boots and being in climbing shoes encourages me to move as fast as i possibly can instead of sight seeing in my aiders. this strategy works especially well on desert towers where i sort of fraid climb through really bad rock at times or end up groveling in chimneys or on mantles on every pitch. this strategy doesn't work at all for big multiday nailup type walls, but it is good one grade IV and below.
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