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askn4trouble
May 28, 2002, 10:35 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 3
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Hey folks
newto thesite--love it already!
I'd like to know if there are anygood tech
sites where i can find excellant 411 on
Kn's-fall factor-shockload-(charts&mathematics would be a big help)
thanx 1,000,000
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crazywacky
May 28, 2002, 11:10 PM
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Registered: Jan 31, 2002
Posts: 409
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Welcome to the site!
Hope you have fun here.
Check out Hunter's post in this thread:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=10755&forum=23
It links to an interesting place on the Petzl site.
Later.
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rickoldskool
May 29, 2002, 5:23 PM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2002
Posts: 214
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Fish products has excellent beta on all kinds of tech stuff. I would encourage everyone to read their info. It's not "SPEW" either, much of it has been contributed by Chris Harmston (Black Diamond tech) from tests he has performed. Click HERE for the fall factor beta. Also Petzel has a good bit of info, and while your there checkout the "fall simulator". Click HERE for Petzel. There's more if you want it Oh ya, WELCOME to beta land.
[ This Message was edited by: rickoldskool on 2002-05-29 10:27 ]
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kennoyce
May 29, 2002, 5:45 PM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2001
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here is just some quick info on the three things you wanted to know about
Kn- one Kn is aproximatly 225 lbf in the american system so if your biner says 24 kn just times the 24 by 225 which is aproximatly 5000 lbf.
fall factor- the fall factor is just the distance you fall divided by the amount of rope out at the time you fall. so say you are on a sport route fifty feet up and eight feet above your last bolt. you fall so it is a sixteen foot fall before the rope catches you just divide sixteen by fifty this is the fall factor.
shock load- to shock load an anchor just means that you fall onto a static piece of equipment (a sling) rather than a dymanic piece of equipment(the rope). an example of this is if you are aiding and fall dirrectly onto your daisy chain rather than onto the rope. or if you are using a sliding knot to equalize two pieces of protection (this is a bad idea) and one of the pieces pulls. this will whock load the other piece.
I hope this info helps you out.
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askn4trouble
May 30, 2002, 12:57 AM
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 3
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thanx for the feed back
Ill check it out-I got a real good
basic understanding, but i want to take
it to the next level
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