Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
anchors and aid
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thomasribiere


Nov 1, 2004, 1:03 PM
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Registered: Aug 24, 2002
Posts: 9306

anchors and aid
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to all aid climbers :

are the anchors on the aid routes temporary (= you create the anchor by yourself, with cams or friends...) or permanent (like pitons or bolts, put by former climbers), or does it depend on the area you climb in. Is there an ethic for the anchors?

thomas, a sport climber... :?


Partner j_ung


Nov 1, 2004, 1:11 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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Re: anchors and aid [In reply to]
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Depends, though often the availablity (or lack thereof) of gear placements on hard aid routes necessitates bolts. North Side of Looking Glass comes to mind.


diesel___smoke


Nov 1, 2004, 1:11 PM
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Registered: Aug 9, 2003
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Re: anchors and aid [In reply to]
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Some are all removable gear (nuts, pitons, cams, etc). Some are a combination (bolts and removable gear). Others are all bolts. Depends on the climbing (if good gear is available you're less likely to need to have anything bolted), the first ascensionist, the future ascentists and the local ethic. Most aid climbers will keep bolting to a minimum.


thomasribiere


Nov 1, 2004, 1:23 PM
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thanks to both of you, you answered in the same minute!


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