|
greyicewater
Nov 3, 2004, 3:09 PM
Post #1 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 8, 2003
Posts: 419
|
i work at my local gym, and i was just wondering what you guys do to go about setting some bouldering problems... more like, what are the steps you take? because we have a bouldering comp, and we're supposed to come up with 50 problems or more by friday, so we kind of have to pull them out of our asses. i want to make them good, advice would be nice.
|
|
|
|
|
mr-pink
Deleted
Nov 3, 2004, 3:14 PM
Post #2 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
50?
that's nuts!
do some dyno's, upside down's, friction, 1 finger pocket one's.
hang the holds upside down, use only pinchers/slopers.
|
|
|
|
|
greyicewater
Nov 3, 2004, 3:21 PM
Post #3 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 8, 2003
Posts: 419
|
thanks... now another question. i don't climb v10 or anything, but the manager says i've set some pretty hard problems in the past. now how would i go about setting a 10? he wants me to set a few...
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Nov 3, 2004, 3:25 PM
Post #4 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
If you're doing a boulder comp, it'll probably be routes with various scores based on difficulty.
so you can have some cheezy, contrived crap as filler and focus on 20-30 "good" routes
|
|
|
|
|
masterjuggler41
Nov 3, 2004, 3:28 PM
Post #5 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2004
Posts: 88
|
maybe you could set a problem that has a decent size jump start.
|
|
|
|
|
jcr
Nov 3, 2004, 3:33 PM
Post #6 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 317
|
Very steep or overhanged problems.
JC
|
|
|
|
|
iwouldratherbeclimbing
Nov 3, 2004, 4:29 PM
Post #7 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2004
Posts: 9
|
use your imagination,what would be the last hold in the world you want to be grabbing for,and put it there, maybe ask for some advice from a really strong climber
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Nov 3, 2004, 4:35 PM
Post #8 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
You're gonna need forerunners.
|
|
|
|
|
kansasclimber
Nov 3, 2004, 5:02 PM
Post #9 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 541
|
Hey! I was in the exact same boat as you last month. I ended up setting 30 problems myself in just 2 days, 16 hours total. But there was a lot of screwing around in that time too. THey will come to you naturally. I would def. suggest variety in problems, go from a sloper to a crimper to a side pull, a hanece flag, to get to the top. Things such as this. Try to incorporate heel hooks also. The key is to make the climber read the problem. Anyone can just throw up hanece holds. Its all about putting large holds up with awkward movement. Make sure to do a variety of aretes, and even some slabby mantles with bad feet. Those are classics always!. More info, pm me
Stephen
|
|
|
|
|
neuroshock
Nov 3, 2004, 5:14 PM
Post #10 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 680
|
In reply to: You're gonna need forerunners.
what's your audience at this comp? is it like a US Climbing Juniors comp? ABS adult comp? a mix? don't forget to put some not-reachy problems for the kiddies, if they're competing. sucks to have all the problems reachy for adults and the 8 yr olds have all of 2 problems to climb.
make some scrunched up moves. make a couple reachy; IMO, less is better--if you're going to make a hard move, make it technical, balance, or strength, not reach. what kind of surfaces do you have to work with? roofs? prows? slabs? steeps? have climbs that change angles as you progress.
for reach, when i'm setting, i grab a hold, set my feet, and see how far my max reach can be off of that hold. i then set the next hold no longer than mid-forearm away (i've a 6 foot span)
most of all, realize that not everyone will climb the problem as you set it. people of longer reach are sometimes going to be able to skip holds, but don't set everything at max reach to force the move as you'll shut down anyone with less than 'x' reach/height.
|
|
|
|
|
mingleefu
Nov 3, 2004, 5:19 PM
Post #11 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 466
|
In reply to: a hanece flag...[snip]...Anyone can just throw up hanece holds. |
|
|
|
|
iclimbtoo
Nov 3, 2004, 5:20 PM
Post #12 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 10, 2002
Posts: 645
|
Dude, easy--
Climbing routes: Require skill, thought, and precision
Bouldering routes: Anything related to brute strength. Slap some holds on, climb it and rate it. If you can't climb it, tweak it and repeat those steps.
I climb and boulder, but from what I see, most of the bouldering is based more on strength than anything. Get a good variation of holds (like sitting on crimpers, lunge to sloper, match and heelhook, dyno to jug) and you'll have some good bouldering routes. Of course, I only set up to around V5 or V6, so take it with a grain of salt...
The best route-setter's rule you can follow is if you can't climb it, don't set it. And always have someone else climb it for grading accuracy.
|
|
|
|
|
neuroshock
Nov 3, 2004, 5:33 PM
Post #13 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 680
|
In reply to: Climbing routes: Require skill, thought, and precision Bouldering routes: Anything related to brute strength. Slap some holds on, climb it and rate it. If you can't climb it, tweak it and repeat those steps.
both disciplines require skill, thought, precision, strength, and balance. some of the best boulder problems i've been on, indoors and out, are balancy, sequency, technical slabs.
don't stick to one mindset when setting...just get really creative. think 'fun'. draw from your previous experiences inside and out. have a hold and think, "what would be a really cool move from here?"
|
|
|
|
|
greyicewater
Nov 4, 2004, 4:26 PM
Post #14 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 8, 2003
Posts: 419
|
thanks for all the tips! this is the abs bouldering comp at vertical dreams... it's on friday night.
|
|
|
|
|
veganboyjosh
Nov 4, 2004, 4:42 PM
Post #15 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2003
Posts: 1421
|
at my old gym they had a pproblem on a slabby type wall that was all feet. it started with about a 3 or 4 foot sideways/forwards jump (the start was tape on the floor, abuot 3-4 feet away from the wall) onto a huge outcropping type hold, that you could stand on. then you had to maneuver thru the problem with no hands. you could touch the wall for balance and for smearing, but that's it. the last hold was a big juggy thing, but you couldn't dyno to it, cos it was all feet, so balance was it.
i liked that problem a lot.
|
|
|
|
|
sidepull
Nov 4, 2004, 5:08 PM
Post #16 of 16
(3711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
|
you might want to find some old videos of PCA comps or just check their site to get some ideas. The men's finals problems are often up in the Vdouble-digits.
http://www.pcatour.com/movies/movies.php
maybe you could send an email to guys at DrTopo to get a copy of their films of the comps - that would show more variation.
I think it's fun if some problems are mostly crimps with one killer sloper or mostly slopers with some tiny crimp. Also, it's good to set with someone who has different strengths than you. You might be trying to get a climber to do a rose manuever and he/she just dynos past your moves. It's still cool to get the improv but you kinda want to force people to do certain things.
Oh yeah, (duh) you can always just look at outdoor problems/vids and then try to recreate the moves indoors. That's fun - good training too.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
