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micon
Oct 28, 2004, 3:36 PM
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Im taking a trip to Big South Fork River and Rec area in Tennesee and stayin in some cabins with my parents and brother. Does anyone know if there are any good sport or toprope crags around the area. I know nothing else about the area othere than it is in big south fork in Tennesee. Any info would be helpful
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bumblie
Oct 28, 2004, 3:48 PM
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You may want to post this at the SCC and RRGCC sites.
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joeschmoe
Oct 28, 2004, 4:24 PM
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my understanding is blue heron has some bolted routes. If you're staying anywhere near the bandy creek area, just pick a bluff thats shorter than your rope and go for it (in other words there's rock everywhere). I've looked into it before and there's not really a guidebook out. There's also tons of bouldering to be found near the O&W bridge, though most of the landings are on a steep slope. just beware the choss, alot of the sandstone is pretty loose and flimsy up there.
another thing stay 100' away from the overlooks and points of interest. and if you're at the bandy creek area go talk to the rangers there, they're usually really freindly and helpful and could probally point you in a direction to go.
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bauerbrian
Oct 28, 2004, 4:50 PM
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Blue Heron does have some good sports routes 5.9 and up, with a short approach. Thats all I remember...its been along time since I have been there.
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supercelt
Oct 28, 2004, 5:19 PM
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The densest population of routes in the BSF is at Blue Heron. Currently there are 50 routes, about half of which are sport routes. When you descend the stairs and turn to face the cliff, walk to your left (downstream, away from Cracks-In-The-Rock). That route out the monster roof system is a 12b called Dead Souls. The slab left of the alcove has three sport routes (listed right to left): 9, 10a (blind crux), and 10d. Around the corner, just right of a big tree is an 11b called Mirror of Llunet. The next pair of sport routes are both 10s. Keep walking, passing through a tunnel, till you get to the three giant blocks. There are numerous routes on these. The most popular are on the third block (the Odyssey Block). On the cleanest face, left to right, are Block Party (5.7, mixed and exciting), a 10 face (name?), a dihedral that steps right onto the arete (Scilla, all bolts, long and fun, up the middle of the wall) and then Charybdis (stay on left side of right corner, 9+, all bolts).
Hope this helps! Have a blast. Let me know if you need more info.
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micon
Oct 28, 2004, 5:32 PM
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Sweet.
Thanks for the beta. I was pretty sure I would be able to find something. Sounds like there is plenty for us to climb in a weekend. That helps a lot.
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supercelt
Nov 1, 2004, 5:48 PM
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Did you make it to BSF this weekend? If so, how was the climbing?
-supercelt
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micon
Nov 2, 2004, 9:12 PM
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Im Going this weekend. Ill let you know.
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ginerbiner
Nov 3, 2004, 2:42 AM
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The SCC mentioned above is the Southeastern Climbers Coalition, www.seclimbers.org
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feanor007
Nov 3, 2004, 2:51 AM
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and you too have discovered the most underdeveloped site in the US. More rock in quantitiy than the Red, but nearly totally undeveloped. Vertible gold mine waiting to explode. word is the ranger isn't climber friendly, but thats just a roumor. who ever develops it could be my personal hero. cause' i'm to lazy/busy/ignorant
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ginerbiner
Nov 3, 2004, 2:54 AM
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Hey, got some news for ya...
Not only is the BSF being developed, there is even a guidebook in the works. Search through www.seclimbers.org for more info.
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feanor007
Nov 3, 2004, 3:17 AM
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ginerbiner...you are my hero of the hour b/c you brought the good news. now does developed mean trad only or new sport?
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noff
Nov 4, 2004, 12:57 AM
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There's everything from bad ass bouldering, to five pitch endurance fest there. Take your pick. Unlimited rock, if your ready to explore.
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ginerbiner
Nov 4, 2004, 1:18 AM
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BSF will be in the new Dixie Cragger Atlas guidebook - which will be in separated area volumes, covering the Main Gorge, Pine Creek, Leatherwood Ford and Blue Heron. Should be out in Feb or so. So stay tuned for the new guidebook put out by Chris Watford.
I know there's sport, and I'll bet there'll be trad too.
An exciting addition to popular deep south climbing :!:
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dirtineye
Nov 4, 2004, 6:37 PM
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HAHA well looks like the secret is out Jeff.
Good thing you finished Vertigo.
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noff
Nov 4, 2004, 7:58 PM
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Bear,
Tis the season for super sick multi-pitch. I'm thinking about a big camp out / first ascent party in December. I'll let you know. I've got my eye on some crazy stuff.
Jeff
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micon
Nov 8, 2004, 3:11 PM
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IT is definitely underedeveloped. Blue Heron is really the only place that has any sport Climbiing I think. I only had one day to climb so I didn't get to go there. I went to the ranger station and they told pointed out a lot of different areas that were climbable. Basically if you're willing to explore you can find rock. It is all over. The Park is basically designed for horse-back riding. and I don't think they want to interupt that to develope climbing routes, but they did not seem unfriendly, and they were very helpful in showing us places where we could find some rock. He told us about a 400 ft wall that is climbable, but I don't have any trad gear so that was out of the question. There are a lot of backroads/horsetrails that you have to take to get to the good stuff so a vehicle with good ground clearance is needed most of that, but 4wd is not necesarrily need though.
This place is definitely a gold mine. There is rock everywhere, it is just undeveloped and takes to wilderness hiking to get there. there are no trails to the places I went and I think that is how most of it is.
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dirtineye
Nov 8, 2004, 5:20 PM
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In reply to: IT is definitely underedeveloped. Blue Heron is really the only place that has any sport Climbiing I think.
Associating underdeveloped wiht lack of sport climbing is just plain stupid.
FYI, a bunch of moronic mad bolters almost got climbing in the BSF shut totally down a few years ago. They cut down trees, grid bolted, and generally made a mess of things. One person managed to convince the authorities that hand drilling an occasional bolt was OK. His input on the matter is one reason climbing is still allowed in the BSF.
One other point is, to build a trail in the BSF, you have to have special permission. That is straight from the park ranger's mouth.
Lastly, unless you can climb 5.12 trad or are willing to aid, most of the big stuff at the BSF will be an exercise in futility. At least in the main gorge, there is very little moderate multi pitch, with only one 5.8 existing currently, and it's not because people have failed to look for moderates.
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supercelt
Nov 8, 2004, 6:15 PM
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The area that caused the bolting controversy is called The Boy's Room. Things did get out of hand there. A couple of trees were cut to make a big ladder. A trail was made. Power drills were used in a wilderness area. It went to court and was settled as a Gentelmen's Agreement. The guys who were in court removed their routes and the Park Service dropped the case. Everyone then agreed that it was time for a Climbing Management Plan.
As far as I know, few, if any, are climbing at The Boy's Room. It's very remote and most of the routes have been removed. Most of the sport climbing is at Blue Heron. The routes there are quite good, especially the sport climbs on the Odyssey Block, a 90' tall free standing pillar (one of three). There are a few good trad lines there as well. If anyone checks out Blue Heron then please let us know what you think of the area.
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micon
Nov 8, 2004, 7:15 PM
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I did not simply mean that because there is a lack of bolts that it is underdeveloped. I meant that in order to find the routes you have to search, they are poointed out for you and there is no trail to take you there. I don't think this area will be open to sport climbing in excess. Like Is said this area is a horse-mans park, one of the few true parks designed for that, and I doubt they want it overrun with climbers. As long as we don't abuse it they dont mind us climbing there.
I think it is a pretty dificult area also. I was only able to see one area, but from what i saw, there were not many moderate routes. Im not a trad climber, yet, but in my opinion, this is an area that shouldn't be bolted, simply because, as we have seen in the past, it won't be tolerated.
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